PPGI Prepainted steel coil from China galvanized

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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Product Description:

PREPAINTED GALVANIZED STEEL COILS
ZINC COATING:60g/m2  (-/+10g/m2)
COLOR: ACCORDING TO COLOR SAMPLE.
TOP COATING:5+13 MICRON, BACK COATING:5-7 MICRON;
COIL WEIGHT:3-5 ton
STANDARD:JIS G 3312
STEEL GRADE:CGCC
COIL ID:508mm


1.THICKNESS:-0.02/+0.02mm; WIDTH:0/5mm.ZINC COATING:+/-10g/m2;

2.TOLERANCE:+/-10% WITH QUANTITIES AND AMOUNT.

3.PACKAGE:FULL PACKED WITH ANTI-DAMP PAPER,IRON SHEET OUTSIDE.

4.SHIPMENT: GOODS WILL BE DELIVERED WITHIN 20 DAYS AFTER RECEIVING ADVANCE PAYMENT

5.TERMS OF PAYMENT:  20% TT IN ADVANCE,80% AGAINST COPY OF B/L. OR LC AT SIGHT

6.THIRD PARTY INSPECTION: SGS, INTERTEK,COTECNA ,BV.   ANY EXPENSE ON INSPECTION(SUCH AS SGS,INTERTEK...) SHALL BE ON BUYER'S ACCOUNT.

 


 

 

 

 

 

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Q:At what temperature would steel evaporate?
Steel is to broad. There are many types of steel with different melting/boiling points. Iron* has a boiling point of 5182 °F and a Heat of vaporization of 340 kJ·mol−1. iron is the main ingredient of steel, along with carbon and other various elements.
Q:Why is steel denser than wood?
The atoms in steel are more tightly packed. They have a greater mass in a smaller volume than wood. Basically, if you take 100 g of steel and 100 g of wood, the piece of steel will be smaller (less volume) than wood and therefore more dense. Density = Mass/Volume
Q:knife made of 304 stainless steel?
Sorry okorder.com/... I hope that link works but as you can see you dont want to use 303.304.316,410,416,430 You can get away with 301 but would be best to use 440. It kind of sounds like your a home shop guy. It would be best for you to make a knife out of a1 or d2 tool steel. with these steels you can torch heat them to a red hot heat where a magnet will not stick to them. Then let them cool slowly in the air. After that you can temper in a oven around 400f. This will a very hard long lasting knife. Check OKorder for good steel prices. A1 and D2 are not stainless but they are the best for a home shop. If you go stainless you can buy preharden material but you will have to grind everything. You can also pay someone to harden your knife but dont plan on it being cheap.
Q:Steel toe cap fur lined boots?
TRY FINDING A GOOD PAIR OF WOOL SOCKS. MOST OUTDOOR STORES LIKE BIG 5, DICK'S OR BASS PRO SHOPS CARRIE A GREAT SELECTION OF WINTER STOCK.
Q:Cost of steel siding vs vinyl? Siding damaged from hail.?
they both cost around the same
Q:I want to make a stainless steel chess set and need help...?
stainless steel is really hard to work with and will be really expensive to pour as not too many foundries do that. As far as tools go, I know that for e.g.drilling stainless steel cobalt bits are best, but even they don't last for very long. If you use normal drill bits stainless steel will ruin them. So how much metal working skills do you have? I would suggest to use a material you have experience with. Or make a chess set from nuts and bolts. You can buy them from stainless steel and the assembly is easy. See links for a few examples and/or use google to find more.
Q:Bendable steel for crossbow bow.?
So i do know way more about compound bows than I do about crossbows, but i'm going to enterprise an opinion. For my part, i would probably lean toward the compound bow. A part of it's only that i like them higher. However, moreover to that, more often than not when you find yourself hunting you will carry the crossbow loaded, on the grounds that the are typically awkward to load when you have the shot. If you're hunting from a blind or from a tree stand (and might figure out easy methods to load the item whilst you're up there) that's almost always ok. But when you need to tote a crossbow round whilst it's loaded, that may be a bit dicier proposition. Most crossbow safeties are lovely crude making the likelihood of by chance firing one alot bigger than with a rifle. Now, to the plus facet, a crossbow has essentially the entire upside of firing a rifle - best accuracy, same ergonomics, can run a scope on them. Without the downside - no real recoil, no longer too loud and you simply have a lovely excellent trigger on about any of them. Compounds are way more work. Plus it is much tougher to be accurate under stress with a compound than a crossbow. Regarding the protection? Don't particularly find out about that. After I was once doing shooting alot of archery, my 3 - D bow for outdoor stuff was once at ninety two pounds with a fifty five% letoff. My goal bow was once round 60. I had to pretty on the whole take care of string stretch, and tuning with the three - D bow. So i'd expect a crossbow to be in that regional. 5 hours to your nearest Bass pro? Good for a crossbow perhaps it's valued at it because no longer too many places raise them. Nonetheless, should you do back to a compound bow it appears rough to feel that would be your nearest archery professional shop. Thinkingblade
Q:Which industries consume the most steel?
I'm guessing manufacturing
Q:Whats better, 1045, or 440 stainless steel?
Type 440 combines such a high grade of cutlery steel, toughness and economy that it is actually known as razor blade steel. Browsing around (a lot) more, it seems that 1045 Surgical Steel is popular in straight razors used by barbers. These razors are honed by stropping with leather and last practically forever. From the above, I would guess that it might be easier to lose the edge on 1045, but also easier to re-sharpen it, that it won't easily knick because probably not so hard as 440. I'm not sure if it would be more expensive, unless it has a superior handle etc. So, I would expect to spend a little more effort over the lifetime of the 1045, maybe pay a little more for it, but have a longer lifetime. hth.
Q:is tool steel reliable steel in construction of a sword?
It depends on the tool steel you are referring to and the function of the sword. L6 steel is a modern tool steel that a few smiths are using (Howard Clark, MAS, etc.), which produces some amazing swords that are both tough and flexible, but very few smiths are qualified to work with it and it is easy to screw up the heat treatment. T10 is another tool steel used by a few larger manufacturers (Paul Chen, etc.), which has a very high carbon content and includes a tungsten ally which makes it very tough and a little more resilient then 1095 carbon steel, however, as with any very high carbon steel, they may be durable but may also chip or break. 1060 and 1075 is the standard steel for most modern production swords since they provide a good balance between hardness, and durability. Spring steel is good if you are concerned about a sword taking a lateral bend, but is only really necessary if you do a lot of tameshigiri and have not yet developed a consistent hasuji.

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