• Popular Fiber Cement Board System 1
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Popular Fiber Cement Board

Popular Fiber Cement Board

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Products Introduction:

Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.

Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..

Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium density

High density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<D1.5

1.5<D2.0

Water absorption

%

30

25

Non-combustibility

GB 8624-2006, grade A

wet expansion

%

0.25

Beding strength

dry

MPA

Strength grade class III

20

Strength grade class IV

24

Saturation with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards


Q:I am in the process of purchasing a townhome and I am looking to tear up the existing 12 ceramic tile that covers the entire main level... an area close to 600 sq. ft. to make way for laminate flooring. Thinset has been used to bond the tile to the cement backer board, and the backer board has been screwed to the wooden subfloor. There is also some sort of adhesive/mortar bonding the cement board to the wooden subfloor. What tools will I need. Are there any techniques that would make it easier? Would trying to remove the cement board damage the subfloor? If so, would it be acceptable to repair damage with some sort of floor leveling compound?
big *** crow bar, thats how i did my kitchen, yep it sucks. you can get a nice one for this in the garden section its made for digging holes but has a nice flat section, for what I dont know but it teats a floor up,
Q:I think I have termites outside on my shield. I sprayed that terminix on the shield but now there are some holes that I want to cover up and since I had extra durock cement board I put it up to help keep any water or anything from going in. Is this a good idea and will the cement board be ok in the weather of the San Jose ca area.
It isn't the termites you see that matter, it is the many more that remain hidden. Get a proper inspection before making any changes.
Q:Can I lay tile on top of an old cultured marble top w/o cement board or plywood?
no.... you have to have some type of underlyment..... or it will come out like crap....
Q:I'm installing a stone back splash behind my bathroom sink - 16 SF. The wall is currently painted and I want to make sure that the stone and thinset adhere properly. Should I sand the wall with 80 grit sandpaper and apply the thinset/stone or should I put 1/2 or 1/4 plywood down for better adhesion? Perhaps cement board?
Ideal way is to do a cement board as a backer board but since its in a non wet area,( not exposed to direct water) you really don t have to.Roughing the area up is always a good idea and won t hurt a thing. I d never do a wood backer in a moist and humid environment, It can expand from moisture and break the bond. Any questions you can e amil me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:do I have to remove the vinyl floor covering or can I just put the cement board over it
If it is only one layer of tile you can work right over it as long as the floor is leveled.
Q:Sorry for the double post, this is an addendum to my previous question. I am planning to re-tile the downstairs foyer. Since it's on the 1st floor of a townhouse with no basement I think there's cement slab underneath, but if I need backer board I need to purchase and make arrangements to cut (I don't own a saw yet). I'd like to take a couple tiles off to check, but how can I tell the difference between the two?
one is cement and one is gypsum.
Q:Attic with a channel steel structure, covered with aluminum instead of wood multilayer? Is it feasible?
Do not need such a complex, directly in the steel structure on the shop 20-24MM thick fiber cement board, and then directly to the floor can be, the floor has a moisture barrier the best pad a layer of moisture, one moisture,
Q:do i need to put cementious backer board behind a fiberglass surround shower unit?
no,,not if its a full surround,,,use green board sheet rock around the edges though
Q:I have a bare concrete/cement floor. After I installed Travertine on one section, it is almost 1/2 inch above the floor. Now, I want to continue to install the other section of the floor with laminate wood, but the floor is too low compared to the travertine floor. The question are: Can I put down a particle board over the concrete/cement floor, then a foam pad (moisture barrier), then laminate wood?Will the particle board absorb water then swell up?Or do I need to put down the moisture barrier foam first, then particle, then laminate wood?If I am not using the particle board, the laminate wood floor will be about 1/8 lower than the travertine floor. is it ok?
Do NOT use particle board. There is no reason, as the laminate can be laid over the concrete with the proper padding. The particle board may swell and cause you issues down the road. Check the instructions on the flooring. Some require a plastic vapor barrier under them, while others only need the padding. 1/8 is not a big deal. The transition strip will bridge the difference. Be sure to check for peaks and valleys in the concrete, and fill in low spots. This will prevent the tongues on the planks from snapping off, leaving gaps in the floor. Allow the laminate to acclimate to the basement for a week or so before installing. Hope this helps. EDIT: You don't need anything under the flooring except vapor barrier or padding. They are designed to be able to be installed on a concrete base. Good luck.
Q:I'm redoing the deck in my back yard. I've discovered the possibility of using deck tiles (wood slats, or slate, etc.) but not until after I ripped up the existing boards. There is a cement slab under my current deck. Could I just install the deck tiles on that, or would there have to be some sort of drainage system underneath? Thanks for the help!
the best starting place for your tile project is Lowe's or the HoDepot for classes in laying tile .. they hold these sessions on Saturday [[ hope that does not interfere with your work ]] the concrete is the perfect base to lay tile .... you should

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