Polycrystalline Silicon Solar Panels 315w

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200000 watt
Supply Capability:
20000000 watt/month

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INTRODUCTION

This installation Manual contains essential information for the electrical and mechanical installation that your must know before installing CUSTOMER PV modules. This also contains safety information you need to be familiar with .All the information described in this manual are the intellectual property of CNBM and based on the technologies and experiences that have been acquired and accumulated in the long history of CUSTOMER. This document does not constitute a warranty, expressed or implied.

CUSTOMER does not assume responsibility and expressly disclaims liability for loss, damage, or expense arising out of in anyway connected with installation, operation, use or maintenance of the PV modules. No responsibility is assumed by CUSTOMER for any infringement of patents or other rights of third parties that may result from use of PV module.

CUSTOMER reserves the right to make changes to the product, specifications or installation manual without prior notice.

 

WORK PRINCIPLE

 Polycrystalline Silicon Solar Panels 315w

 

Process is as follows:  

1, the battery test

2, positive Welding - Inspection –

3, on the back of cascading - Inspection –

4, laying (glass cleaning, material cutting, glass pre-processing, laying) –

5, laminating –

6, to flash ( to the side, cleaning) –

7, fitted border (glue, loading angle keys, punching, install box, scrub I glue) –

8, the welding junction box –

9, high-pressure test –

10, component testing -- -

11 appearance inspection, packaging and storage;  

 

COMPONENTS

 

 

Polycrystalline Silicon Solar Panels 315w

 

Data sheet

Maximum power

315W

Cell type(mm)

Polycrystalline solar cell 156*156

Number of cell(pcs)

72(6*12)

Manufacture site

China

Open-circuit voltage(voc)

45.1V

Maximum power voltage(vmp)

37.3V

Short-circuit current(isc)

8.88A

Optimum operating current(imp)

8.45A

Power tolerance

0~+5W

Module efficiency

16.2%

Dimensions(mm)

1956*992*40

Weight

27 kg

Backsheet

Silver

Frame Colar

White

Frame

Anodized Aluminum Alloy

 

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Q:Solar Panel experts...please help.?
I'm not an expert, but I recently went through the process and now have a system on my home. I got 3 quotes from 3 licensed contractors and they all seemed to be about the same, the prices seemed to be based on the amount of energy they produced. In CA and I'm sure everywhere else they are tested by an independent agency which rates the output of the panels. You seem to have similar usage as my house, I got a 3.75kwhdc unit, it isn't expected to eliminate my bill, but it should reduce it by quite a bit. I've only had it for a few months and it took me from about 45 kwh per day to around 0. I know I'll have lower output in the winter, but my usage is lower in the winter as well. I decided on this size unit to maximize my rebates and I can take advantage of my utilities rebates when I add to the system in a few years. The difference between panels seemed to be how big they were. Some systems can be twice the size and produce the same amount of energy. I put a couple links below that I found helpful. The roseville pv buy down program has some great links that give information about specific systems.
Q:Finding the output of a solar panel?
You need full sunshine from the sun, or a lamp that will give a light spectrum similar to the sun, a volt meter, Milli-amp meter, and a variable resistor of 0 to 000 ohms. The voltmeter test leads go across the solar cell leads. The amp meter leads will be in series with the solar cell. Let's say, positive lead of the solar cell to the the positive lead of the amp meter, the negative lead of the amp meter to one terminal of the variable resistor, and the wiper terminal of the variable resistor to the negative lead of the solar cell. Slowly decrease the value of the resistor until the voltage from the solar cell just begins to drop. Take note of the amp meter reading. This is about the high end range of the solar cell. You might want to begin with a micro-amp meter for the current meter.
Q:what is the cost of a solar panel
With out the kW information of the need for your workshop no one can really tell you what you need for power supply. I would recommend you orientate your building or shop to maximize the passive solar potential. this will drastically eliminate your excessive need for heating and cooling. Which in turn will maximize your solar energy from the panels. Also depending upon what state you live in do some further research into any programs or grants offered by the power companies or state incentives. Regarding hydrogen...for get about it.
Q:Solar Panel Question?
It depends very much on where you live. If you live in Nevada, Arizona or California solar panels might be a good idea. If you live in Canada don´t expect to get your bill to zero... 800 kwh/month means an average consumption rate of about 2500 watts. 6 panels would cover that. But your energy consumption isn´t cosntant and nor is your energy production from the solarpanels. If you go off to work during the day when your panels produce the most then you probably produce excess electricity. Check with your utility if it is possible for you to sell off that electricity by putting it on the grid. Then you buy back electricity when you´re watching tv and surf the web at night. You loose money and electricity like this (or by using batteries as suggested above) so I would underdimension my solarpanel capacity. It makes sense if it is cheaper to just buy electricity at night. The retailer and the manufacturer should have charts showing how much their 65 watt panels really produce at different times of the day and the year for your location. Oh, and I´m sure there are ways in which you could reduce your electricity consumption. Smart lights, energy efficient lights are easy ways.
Q:0000 watt Solar Panels?
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Q:Are solar panels worth it?
No, but if you have the money, go for it. In Germany, people get a government rebate (much like the Prius rebate our own government offered) and so you see solar panels everywhere. If the Obama administration pushes for a rebate for solar panels, you will see them here in the state. It's the initial cost that puts off most potential solar panel customers. Upkeep isn't too expensive, and they ultimatley pay for themselves. (after about a decade)
Q:Will a 3w Solar Panel Charge A 55ah Car Battery?
Quite a while. I am assuming you are using 2 volts as your buss power. The small panels were intended as a float charge for batteries to keep them from discharging over a period of time. 3 Watts means only /4 Amp. Normally when I do slow charging of batteries, I am using right around amp, and that takes about a week to bring up a battery that was discharged past 80 percent capacity. When you factor in losses from corrosion, battery self discharge, and loose connections, you will likely want to add more panels. using your 55Amp/hour battery, a amp charger running constant in a perfect world would take 55 hours. Real world, probably closer to 64 to 72 hours. That for simplicity is 5 Watts constant charge power. Now you are using /5 of that with your current setup. so 5 times longer, whichh puts you in the 300 hour range of real world, or 220 hours of perfect world. This time of year, you may have about 8 hours worth of charging light, which puts you at close to a month. Don't fret. If you are using it for lighting in a shed, Power LEDs and tethering some of the inexpensive LED lights to the 2 volt source will give you plenty of light for a very long time, the panels will help some, but you will likely need to put the batteries on a charger, or you can build a gas powered 2 volt generator easily enough. Charge it up only when needed.
Q:I have two ARCO M55 solar panels. What do I need to connect to a 2Volt bank of batteries.?
You can buy Solar Charger Regulators. I don't. These chargers limit the charging current to the batteries, so you do not get a full efficiency of the solar panel. They disconnect the batteries from the user side (the bulbs you use) if the battery voltage goes below a certain level (i.e. below 8V for a 2V battery), so you cannot use all the power available in the batteries, even in emergency. They introduce, at least, a 0.7V loss (diode forward voltage) between the panel and the battery. If you have SEVERAL panels and a lot of batteries, use a controller as above. If you only have one panel, insert a 5A trip fuse in line (in your case: twice the current of the panel), and a 0-20A diode in series between the panel and the batteries (Kathode side of the + of the battery, Anode side of the + of the panel). Install a voltmeter across the battery. The fuse will prevent any short or over-charge current. The diode will prevent the battery to discharge into the panel at night if it is not already protected. The voltmeter will allow you to watch the status. Your thought of limiting the voltage is useless: should the battery be low, the panel will drop its voltage, limited by the max current. Should the battery be fully charged and the solar panel at full efficiency, it will just try to charge the battery more. A bit of bubbles may result, hence the voltmeter to watch over it. If you want to limit the voltage to 4V, put a 4V Zener (4Vx2.5W!) in series with a resistor of, say, 7V-4V/2.5A or ~ Ohm, 5W, in parallel with the panel.
Q:Does It really cost that much to Install solar panels?
It costs more than they will ever save you in electricity cost.
Q:I'm have a DIY solar panel and wanted to use micro inverters?
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