Polished tile New noble stone series,6W18

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Supply Capability:
50000SQM per month m²/month

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Product Description:

Specification:

Serie: New noble stone

Item No.: 6W18

Size: 600× 600mm / 800× 800mm

Thickness: 9.8mm

Surface: Polished

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.3 %





Effect Picture:






Packing details:

Size(mm)PCS/CTNM2/CTNKGS/CTNSQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt41.44281382.4
600×600-Double loading41.44301296
800×80031.92501036.8
1200×60021.4445864
1200×600-Thin tile32.1622.52592




BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.



FAQ and Investment:


Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.



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Q:are tiles more slippery or vynal flooring?
ther in none slip for both products. shop around
Q:how to create a wet bed for tiles?
I m assuming yo mean a mortar bed or a mud bed for tiles. You don t want to do this for later on as you say. You want to lay tiles soon after it s set so you don t ruin the mortar bed by walking on it. This isnt something you usually just do , it takes practice and a bit of experience and is hard work but worth it when done right. A wet bed is a base of cement that the tiles are installed as you go. Old fashion method rarely used anymore. Now a mud bed is used and then a thin set is used to adhere the tile down. If you want to do a mud bed e mail me through my avatar and I ll guide you through it. GL
Q:how can i tile over linolium flooring without pulling it up?
Tap around the floor in a tight pattern. Loose spots will sound hollow. Cut them out completely with a sharp utility knife, angleing the knife away from the center of the spot you are cutting. Spred a floor prep, such as Ardex or Planipatch ( both portland cement based floor preps), over the floor to fill the holes and any pattern (you will need an 18 flat trowel). Spread the mix on the floor at a 45 degree angle. Scrape off the excess at a 60 to 70 degree angle. Work in a semicircle sweeping motion, leaving only what you need to fill the holes and pattern. The prep will get lighter as it dries, usually 20 - 45 miniutes depending on the size of the cutouts. All prep shrinks as it dries, so you may need to coat larger cutouts a second time. Scrape down any ridges with the edge of the trowell, use a low 5 to 10 degree angle to avoid gouging floor. Sweep floor thoroughly, at least twice, and vaccuum up pile. Then you are ready to set tile. Be sure to use the right notch size on the trowel for proper adhesion without squeez out mess. Also read the glue directions. Many glues need open time to tack up before setting tile. Doing this will make sure that you are getting the best adhesion possible. It will help to resist water damage, and it will keep the pattern of the vinyl from telescoping through the tile over long peroids of time.
Q:Cleaning tiles?
Kaboom grout cleaner. Not tub and tile. There is to different ones. They both are very good. If you can find the Kaboom grout cleaner It will do all of it. Other wise use hot water and Just a cap full of the tub and tile cleaner from kaboom ,
Q:How much bacteria resides in ceiling tiles?
Leave them alone. The best you could do with ceiling tiles in any case would be to vacuum them; ceiling tiles don't like moisture so you can't attack them with any kind of wet cleaning agents and expect to get away with undamaged tiles. Look around and see how often you see anyone ever treating ceilings. Bacterial threat from ceilings is effectively zero: the only things that ever get there have to be airborne in which case the ceiling is the least of your worries, and you don't ever touch them anyway. Anything that lands on and sticks to the tiles will dry out very shortly, it's a ridiculously inhospitable environment for life, bacterial or otherwise.
Q:Tiling over fireplace masonry?
You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)
Q:Starting kitchen wall tile?
you need spacers...( couple $'s a bag, only 1 bag needed..)You need to grout the tile after applying to the wall, wait 24 hrs or as the mortor says....I would recommend a grout sealer- they can be brush on or spray on..the grout will collect dust, grease and be a nightmare to clean ... in bathrooms you normally put backerboard before tile( it is made of concrete and keeps the water from penetrating to the drywall...imagine having to rip out the dryway and re do it....If they are simple sq tiles, no pattern involved, then you can start at the edge/ end...if you want the corners to be 2 perfect sqs meeting- that is where you should start- then you won't have a cut piece butting up to an uncut or two cuts meeting (this is what sounds right for your project) ...you can use the backsplash as a base---to support the tile as it dries. Use painters blue tape to help hold it to the wall until then....do one row all along the backsplash using the backsplash as support and a small piece of tape securing it to the wall until the mortor takes hold..remove the tape to start on the next row up and secure with tape as before....continue until done. Use spacers 1/4 to keep things straight...use a level to get 1st row straight, snap chalk line/ draw line... PLEASE- double check your thinset to be sure it is recommended for your size tile and for wall use...the premixed stuff has a tendency to shrink up as it dries (and it stays wet for a VERY long time esp in high humidity/ moist areas)...causing your tile to come free from the surface it is attatched to... I would get a small bag of the real, mix it yourself mortor- it is concrete and dries as such... I have used the premixed stuff and had terrible results. Have fun!
Q:The living room is good or the tiles are good
Living room or use tiles, for two reasons First, from the design of the living room for the concept of open space, so there is no great impact on people's access, and sometimes the floor will feel some state of prohibition Second, now the Chinese people's civilization has not yet come to everyone like to take off the shoes, so the tile is easy to clean some
Q:keeping a brand new tile shower from cleaning nightmares?
You should have a glaze on the tiles , which won t need a sealer at all, If it is a glazed ceramic, who ever sold a tile sealer should be shot lol. All you need is a penetrating sealer for your grout and develop good after shower habits of wiping of the water down as the others have suggested. This helps prevent water spots and mineral s from forming on the tile. If you have a very shiny tile this is even more important for water spots from showing. You still can t get away from an occasional cleaning though( SORRY lol) A good sealer, w/ 2 coats will last up to 25 years, although I have 2nd thoughts on that . But once you see how easy it is to do, you wont mind doing it every other year or so .. GL
Q:Painted Cider-block fireplace now I want to tile.?

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