• Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone Serie CMAXWL004

Ref Price:
$4.55 - 4.65 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004 is one of the most popular color in the present market. Due to its simple design, this model has been exported to many countries in Middle East and Africa, and is also widely used in China domestic market. The wooden vein could create a clean special decoration effect.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, EN 14411

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 500x500mm, 7pcs/Ctn, 890 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1512m2/20’Fcl

 

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 60*60 available?

—— Yes. For some series, the size 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120 are also available.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q:adhesive tiles, peel stick tiles
no, i never do it
Q:Is polished tiles and tiles a thing?
Tiles include two types of tiles and wall tiles. Polishing is a kind of tile! Maintenance is nothing to pay attention to is not friction, no nitric acid!
Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:I am planning on tiling the backsplash area of my kitchen. I am using 6x6 ceramic porecelin tile (roman stone). The dimensions of the area is 17x60. When i went to scrape the original paint off of the wall I will be tiling, the first thin layer of the drywall came off with the paint. This layer is paper thin. I went to Home Depot and they told me to use Zissner 123 sealer. I put on two coats and the wall seems sealed pretty good. I will be using Mastic as my adhesive. Do you think that I will be ok tiling three tiles high (first tile is laying on the granite countertop) without using a backerboard. Will the drywall be able to hold the mastic/tile even though I ripped off a thin layer of drywall but sealed it with 123 sealer?
Based on your description, maybe dark brown would be better as it will provide a better contrast with your current kitchen color scheme. You should also change your backsplash at the same time as the countertop. I would pick a third color that matches well with the beige and the dark brown. Good luck and have fun remodeling!
Q:i have an area of tile covering one corner of my bedroom in my rented flat - will wallpaper stick to it?
Instead okorder /... Behind the tv is fabric wrapped plywood with an added wood frame.
Q:Specifically, what type of drill bit is required that won‘t chip the tile.
Also do not rush. Slow, slow, slow drill speed and minimal pressure. Having someone spray water while you drill also helps. Getting through the gloss layer is the hardest part as drill will want to slide. The tile bits you purchase at store will wear out after a few holes so keep fresh ones handy.
Q:i stay in a moblie home and i would like to lay tile but a lot of ppl are saying not to cause within time the wood under it would give way is that true i dont want to put more carpet cause i have little ones and am tired of shampooing my carpet i have to do it about 4 times a yr and my carpet is a dark green i know but thats what it came with it look nice when it was new but the carpet is 3 yrs old now and not so good looking after so much cleaning .well let me know please
Tiles are OK for a change but which tiles? There are variety of materials offered in tiles like clay/ceramics, porcelain, PVC etc. You can segregate these into hard and flexible category. The wooden floors are semi-hard floors. They are neither rigid nor flexible but fairly closer to the flexible surfaces. Flexible floors can not take the hard materials like clay or porcelain tiles etc. they are fit for flexible materials like carpets, PVC, laminated boards or wooden tiles. For a mobile home with wooden floors carpets or PVC floors are the best. i will not recommend rigid flooring like concrete or ceramic tiling. You can easily find tile-finish PVC or laminated board flooring in variety of colors. Try some if you are fed up with carpets and looking for a change.
Q:The house to decorate the floor in the choice of headache, wooden floor generous and beautiful, but will rot, will be deformed, have to resist termites; and tiles no problem, but now many people use wooden floor, personal really do not know how to choose The Is there any friend who can give professional advice?
First look at the economy, money when he wood flooring, but no money to buy cheap wooden floor, might as well buy tiles Second, people see, tiles, you can use a mop, wood floor, to kneel rub, wax and so on. Lazy is free Followed by the knowledge of the bedroom installed wood flooring, the other is tiles
Q:hi i live in a upstairs flat,and i want to tile my hall with ceramic tiles,i did a square 4 foot patch to see if the tile would stick or would come loose,well they did come loose,so how do i prepare floorboards for tiling over so the grout wont crack when i walk on the floor thanks
You can, but it's a gutsy try. Hardwood flexes, expands and contracts with temp. humidity and wear. Those are things you DONT want when setting tile. If you really really want to try this without removing the hardwood, it will take some money and time. First like others above mentioned, find a cement backer. Hardibacker and Durarock are brands sold at Home Depot. I would recommend getting the thicker 1/2 sheets as that will help dampen the flex. Then you will want an anti-fracture membrane to coat the backer with. This stuff helps allow the floor to move (slightly of course) without cracking your grout and popping tiles. Next buy a heavily latex modified mortar. It usually has a higher psi strength and also allows for some give. It's more expensive, but it's cheaper than doing the job twice. I'm personally a fan of TEC's SuperFlex mortar, but every tile guy has their favorite. When you go to actually install the tile (after the backer is in and the membrane is dry) use a deep trowel. In these situations, I use a 1/2 trowel. Spread the mortar evenly, and place each tile with the same amount of pressure. This will save time trying to keep the tiles level. When grouting also find a latex modified mix for it as well. Use that stuff instead of water. Hope this helps and you actually read the whole thing. I didn't mean to write a book.
Q:To any DIY‘ers out there!My kitchen has a white tile backsplash and these decorative fruit motifs here and there. (you remember that trend?)There are only eight of them strategically placed, but I‘d really prefer that there were none, and just the plain white like the rest of the tiles. I can‘t really aford to retile the whole backsplash right now, so my question is .. Is there an effective way to cover them or paint them?
Oh my gosh.. I think you have the same kitchen as I do!! Ha ha ha! They are so ugly, arent they? I had looked into painting them and I looked into trying to remove the ones I hated and replacing those. Best thing is I guess you can go ahead and paint the ones you want to paint, or paint all of them... use tape, use primer then put your color on. But I ended up ripping them ALL down.

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