• Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Rulip Serie CMAX-36605 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Rulip Serie CMAX-36605 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Rulip Serie CMAX-36605

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Rulip Serie CMAX-36605

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Rulip Serie CMAX-36605

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Rulip Serie CMAX-36605

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Rulip Serie Light Pink Color CMAX8405 is one of the most popular color in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 87 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

 For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

 FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

3.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

Q:i want to use broken tiles for flooring in the balcony. what is the procedure?? and how do i start??please suggest.
I suggest that you first prep and fill your concrete and let dry. Next you should lay out some tile pieces on an area near your starting point fitting the pieces together like a jigsaw puzzle. Next spread some tile mastic over an area equal to the size of the area where you have laid out tile pieces that fit together. Next, quickly set the tiles in the mastic in the same pattern that you had them laid off to the side leaving at least about 1/8th gaps between the tile pieces. When you are finished, scrape off any mastic that does not have tile set in it. Repeat this process until you completely cover your floor. Allow to dry for a day and then fill the cracks with grout. Allow the grout to dry for a day and then do an acid wash to remove the grout residue.
Q:I have a few ceramic tiles on my kitchen backs plash that do not match my new kitchen color. Can I paint them? If so, how? Thank you.
Use the KILZ Premium primer a late paint, after first washing well. I found the TSP cleaner now in a liquid at lowes. the paint store guy didnt think it existed.
Q:I need to know if flexbond is the best stuff to use for this type of job for a do it yourselfer. I have never worked with this stuff. I have only used regular thin set mortar in the past. Is it hard to work with?? And to lay the tiles this large do I have to butter the mortar on or can I just trowel it onto the plywood floor?Thanks, Fran
Flexbond has the same consistency as other thin sets. So it isn't any harder to work with. As far as applying it to the back of the tiles and the floor, I typically don't. If you have high or low spots in the sub floor, use an appropriate floating material to feather those spots out before you lay any tile. You can use something as simple as a 4' level and just lay it on the floor moving it in every direction to look for high/low spots. That is the only reason to apply it to the back side, to fill low spots. Use a 1/2 notched trowel to spread the flexbond. The key is to not make it too soupy when you mix it. If you do, the thin set tends to drop some, typical to air out of a balloon (if that makes sense to you). That will be what makes tiles not adhere fully. You can tell this by tapping on the tile the next day. You will here the hollow sound. If you have that scenario, remove that tile and reset it before grouting. Here's a tip to make the grouting easier. Keep a bucket of water and sponge with you as you lay the tile. Wipe the excess flexbond off the tiles and from the spots between the tiles where the grout will be. If the flexbond is down 1/4 from the top of the tile, that's fine.
Q:Just how long the renovation of the new house, my home bathroom tiles on the ground as long as the bath will be seepage, the investigation of the pipeline without problems, leaks are no problems, where the problem? Urgent to be resolved.
If there is a problem with the waterproof layer, you must tear down the tiles, the walls hit the waterproof layer, see the inner wall is better, and then re-putty putty, re-do waterproof layer of the wall, and then paving tiles, Generally this method is more complex, so it is recommended to check again. Followed by the rupture of water pipes lead to seepage, this situation, when the need to check the water pipe to test to see if there is leakage, if it is due to damage caused by water pipes, to immediately find the leak, open the wall to replace the water pipe The If only because of moisture caused by wall water seepage, so only need to pay more attention to the daily ventilation and cleaning of the bathroom can be.
Q:I live in a split level 3 story house, the outside of my house is concrete, the walls inside are concrete and the floor is tile. Several weeks ago the tile in our laundry room cracked, as if something was pushing up from underneath. This morning the exact same thing happened in our top story living room. We had tilers come out to re-tile and they said that this happens all the time, but the concrete underneath the tile was untouched and un-warped in any way. Please help? What can we do to fix this from ever happening again?
your house has settled. Nothing can remain level if the foundation is shifting underneath it. tile men are wasting your money. Permanent fix? Ramjack, maybe.
Q:What are the pros and cons for using porcelain tiles or ceramic tiles?
Tile terminology could be complicated. maximum varieties of tiles that are created from clay or a mix of clay and different components, then kiln-fired, are seen to be a factor of the better type observed as “Ceramic Tiles”. those tiles could be chop up into 2 communities, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. those non-porcelain tiles are often observed as ceramic tiles by ability of themselves, break away porcelain tiles.for further information bypass to the link that's given under
Q:I have old, crumbly tile as a subfloor in my apartment. I recently put in vinyl flooring when I took my carpeting out. It now looks as if this tile (wood-like vinyl planks) are taking the shape of the subfloor, which was not perfectly even. I don‘t like that I see shadows of peaks and valleys in the new flooring in certain light. It also doesn‘t feel even when I walk on it barefoot, but I‘m extremely particular.1. Should a coating have been applied to even-out the old tile BEFORE the vinyl flooing was installed? (the company didn‘t want to take these up as they felt it was asbestos. the worker who installed the new floor said the old floor did not need a coating)2. Was this vinyl tile installed correctly?3. If it wasn‘t installed correctly, could this affect the vinyl tile/planks over time -- could it warp, perhaps? 4. What do I do if it was installed incorrectly and the company does not do anything about it without a fee?? (There‘s a warantee on the floor IF it was installed correctly only)
The new vinyl floor should only have been applied to a good, sound and stable substrate. If the tiles underneath were chipping, flaking, bubbling or falling apart there is no way the new flooring should have been applied. Most asbestos tile comes up easily and requires basic Personal Protective Equipment. Not like asbestos pipe installation...the nasty stuff. Another option is to remove the loose tile and fill with a latex floor patch...not the best option, but OK for most. A better option is a 1/4 plywood underlayment on top of the tile and under the new vinyl. You still need to remove lose or bad tile and level uneven areas, but the new plywood underlayment will give you a much more stable surface. You'll need to prime the plywood with a floor primer and also consider a new threshold to account for the elevation difference.
Q:I am installing some mesh mounted 12x12 glass tiles sheets on one wall of my kitchen (behind the stove). I was reading online how to do it and I have a question. Some sites say to put the bottom tiles flush with the counter top and some sites say to use 1/8 spacers between the countertop and the bottom of the tiles and fill in with grout colored cauk. Which should I do? Thanks
Definitely use the spacers! It will give it a much more professional look. You'll be glad you did
Q:I believe the tiles were made in Mexico. They are light beige in color. They were installed in the master bathroom which has a shower stall, no bathtub.
Pretty much agree w/ Doc .. You wont hurt a thing w/ the seal part on the grout,it s not a cure all but it will help.. Get a Penetrating sealer and not a silicone sealer( which will wear off over time} A 2 coat minimum is the way to go.. GL
Q:all ceraminc tiles, mounted in between to tiles maybe?
The shelf could only appear to have been made from tile. The tiles are mounted on a subframe, covered with cementitious board and adhered with mortar, typically. With new construction (or major remodel), this is pretty straightforward; you'd just plan it in to the framing and finishing. With an existing shower, I'd have to say No, to this thought, because there'd be nothing to mount the tiles properly to. If you do get that far, you can get tiles with a specially shaped edge, called a bullnose that won't show the underside of the tile's body (an unglazed edge) for the edges of a surface, like a shelf. Grout can also be used to hide those 90 degree angles, if the bullnose tiles are not made to match the tile you are working with. Hope that helps/

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