Q:I am going to be removing ceramic tile in my kitchen and was wondering what the easiest way to go about it was? I was going to use a hammer and a flat ended screw driver, what do you think?

The screw driver will be destroyed and unworkable a few tiles in. You would be better off using a wide chisel bit with your hammer. You can get a concrete chisel for about $20. it’s a long round piece of metal with a wide flat sharp head. You could also use a normal wood chisel but you will need to sharpen it often on a bench grinder. Removing tiles is hard work. If it’s a large area you would be better of getting a small jack hammer with a sharp flat chisel bit.If you tap a wall to hard with the jack hammer it can damage the plaster in the other room on the other side of the wall your tapping. If you’re talking about floor tiles then get a jack hammer or rent a tile removal machine. It’s like a jackhammer on wheels with a wide sharp blade at the bottom. You might be lucky though. Sometimes depending on the previous glue work they just fall off with a couple of taps.

Q:please be descriptive.........

Ceramic tiles comes in several grades of toughness. It's not too fragile, but use caution not to drop heavy objects. Do you have extra pieces of tile that match? Always buy 10% overage for replacement.

Q:I have some cracked squares in my kitchen.It is caused from the subfloor coming up in one section.What is the best way to remove old tiles and screw floor back down to and replace with extras that I have.I have the glue left over also to use on them.I know my husband had hard time getting them up once before.Tired of waiting for hubby to do it.Any easy ways for me to get tile up.

if it's self stick try using a hair dryer to warm the tile up and get a scraper under a corner and pull up . if you glued it just grab a stong scraper and go to town .i don't think there is an easy way

Q:OK here is my problem. I want to switch my bath tub to an all-tile shower and wonder how to do it. So far the tile were set onto a cement board that was itself put on top of the drywall. I am wondering if this is a common thing. From all my research, it looks like tile should be on the cement board, but there is no use for extra drywall behind it. It actually makes things tougher because you need some sort of corner tile instead of normal bullnose since the cement board and the rest of the wall are not at the same level.My second question is: is there an order to do all this i.e. should I make the shower pan (sort of rubber sheet filled with cement), before or after I install the cement board on the wall. Is there a specific angle used for the drain?Thanks in advance for all your tips.

Do I need a shower pan? Do I need a specialized shower pan? $600 up just for the tile redi pan. No going around this if I want shower tile floors?

Q:Hello,Trying to decide on tile for living area. What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain tiles? What price is reasonable for installation of the tile?

Generally, okorder /

Q:Is the usual household and engineering brick Such as ordinary tiles and large tiles are much Synthetic tons of how many blocks around

80 * 80 of the general box of 48 kg, a box of 3, a ton more than 20 boxes, more than 60 pieces. 60 * 60 now very few people use, a box of four

Q:What is the tile material?

Tile with kaolin is basically no mainly clay-based quality of the tiles are now a large number of stone slag to stone-based bottom of the bottom of this tile is relatively hard quality is better

Q:We have a big problem with our tiles in our bathroom, they wont stick.We have painted the floor with the pva. used (waterproof athesive) don‘t know if thats the correct name for it. my boyfriend has let his dad do the tiling as he knows how to do it. i told him to get a profesionals. but he wants he‘s dad. so now we have been having this problem. if any one knows what should we do or use different glue or something, that would really help., thanx

Go to the tile store and take a tile and the glue you used and ask for help.

Q:My father wanted to replace the tiles in the master bathroom as he plans on putting the house on the market. I was skeptical whether or not he could accomplish the project and after hitting several snags I‘ve decided to get involved.The problem is that the old tile was removed and there‘s only 7/8 - 1 to work with. The new tile is 3/8 thick; leaving 1/2. His original plan was to lay down plywood, cement board, then tile, however, it‘s going to raise the floor a solid 1 which will cause several complications. Any advice on what the #$@* I‘m supposed do? I truly appreciate all of your help.

Once you pull up the tiles and the old and get to the original subfloor you can put your backerboard directly on that. You don't need an extra layer of plywood. If you feel the subfloor is not sufficient you need to replace it too. If the subfloor is sturdy it is okay to put down a layer of thinset, then put down your backer, then screw the backer and fill the seams with thinset and the appropriate seam tape. Then lay your tiles like normal.

Q:How can I remove ceramic tiles from a bathroom wall without damage the wall itself, as I want to paint the wall. Would steam help loosen the glue used?

The tiles are held on with grout, not glue. It all depends on where these tiles are and the condition of the wall behind them. Do any of the tiles have cracks? Is there any black mould growing at the edges where the tiles meet a wall or the tub? But before I go any further - If the tiles are surrounding the tub, aka tub surround or shower stall, then don't use only paint on plain dry wall. It just won't work... well, it will work, but not for long. You'll have to replace the dry wall within months! Now, to start you need to crack a tile or two, break it from the wall, scrap the rest off with a strong flat metal tool (some call them putty knives). The more moisture behind the tile the easier the tiles come off. Some tiles will be so adhered it will take the drywall paper or drywall with it, and you will have to either replace the drywall or mud it, then sand it flat and prime it. You can't get away with this, no matter how you try. It is the way of the tile, so to speak. To replace the wall or part of it there is a fairly new product on the market that is highly water resistent - nothing in this world is water proof! All succumbs to water, eventually. - you will find it at Home Depot , or any other building supplier, and it looks like concrete. Heavy as hell, and sold in sheets like drywall. You have to use a skill saw to cut out the size you need, and use screws to adhere it to the 2x4's that makes the room's frame.