• Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L System 1
  • Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L System 2
Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L

Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Tile Serie, which is one serie of Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas.


Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile, 

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L

Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile Stone Series ST60K/60L



FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

         4. Why choose our Floor Tile? 

        1).  Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for giving                    useful instruction on your jobsite.


5. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5


6. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles? Which one more slippery, more aesthetically pleasing           and easy to clean?

 

Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. Long-term use may wear a large surface; porcelain tiles have the higher degree, long hard wear surface.

Q:I want to replace my wood flooring with porcelain wood like tile because i have a dog but my uncle who is a contractor said because of the house not sitting on concrete foundation ( meaning you can go under the house) i can only install vinyl or wood flooring again because tile is too heavy but um we have tile in the kitchen and restrooms and my other uncle who has a two story home has tile upstairs so i dont get it
Since you say its not on a cement foundation I ll assume its post and beam and I ll concure with your uncle the contractor. There is simple to much movement in this type of construction.. If its a medium or small breed of dog wood will work. Large dogs need to have their nails well trimmed all the time to have wood. There are many different types of vinyls (sheet and planks) that work great with dogs..Some good laminates ( not the 99 cent stuff) can work well also Traffic Master Allure is a VERY tough , water proof flooring that is a good option since wood and laminates are prone to water damage. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q:I have a few ceramic tiles on my kitchen backs plash that do not match my new kitchen color. Can I paint them? If so, how? Thank you.
You can paint anything. How long it will stick is another matter. Ask at a paint store and tell them what you are painting. You must clean the tile clean first.
Q:There was actually only a tub there and no shower, so the walls are all plaster. I know that before I tile I need a different backerboard, meaning the plaster goes at least to a point. Any hints, tips, directions, and suggestions on how to do the job?
You dont necessarily need to remove the plaster, but i would recommend removing it. cut the plaster out to half inch short of where you are going to tile to, so that the tile will lap onto the plaster a little. this will get rid of any patching, painting, ect. In the place of the removed plaster, install half inch cement fiberboard, costs around $10 per 3ftX5ft sheet. install with screws every 8 inches on each stud. use mesh tape in joints of fiberboard and float the joints with thinset. i would also recommend using a sealer that is specifically designed for cement fiber board under tile in the shower. dont remember the name off hand, but you can roll or brush it on and it turns bright red when it is dry. then use ceramic tile adhesive to set the tile on the walls. be sure to seal the grout joints in the tile after the grout has set for 3 or 4 days. 2 coats of sealer recommended. you can tell the sealer is working if you put a drop of water on the grout joint after the sealer has had at least 24 hours to dry, if the drop of water stays in a small bead shape then the sealer is doing its job, if the water drop soaks into the grout and darkens it, then the grout needs another coat of sealer. dont know if you are tileing the floor of the shower or using a shower pan , but that is a whole nother issue. any questions email me
Q:I installed tile couple of days ago in my shower. I was wondering isn't it better to put bathroom caulking instead of grout since it is flexible and it will last longer and provide better water resistance. Does grout make tile stronger or is caulking only applied on edges? Would I make mistake if I used bathroom caulking between tiles? Thanks
Grout Vs Caulk
Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:My husband and I are thinking about putting tile on our front porch. It‘s 10 x 13 roughly size room. Would 6x6 size tiles look better or would 12x12? What do you think?
Only wrong thing you're doing is to assume that the tile makers wouldn't change the size in all these years. A 2 x 4 isn't 2 x 4 any more either. You won't be able to hide it. If you don't mind looking at it then continue on. If you can't stand how it looks then you should replace the whole floor.
Q:We are using some leftover floor tile (6x6 size) and some new decorative tile (2x2 and 1x1) to tile our backsplash. Can we use the same mortar that we used on the floor? Also, we used a 1/4 inch notched trowel when doing the floor -- should we use a smaller notch for the backsplash (say, a 1/8 inch notched trowel)? Finally, the floor tile and the 1x1 tiles are porcelain. The 2x2 tile is tumbled travertine with quite a few pits on the surface. We don‘t know if we should fill those pits with grout or not. On one hand -- it will make the tiles easier to clean if they are filled (yes?). On the other, we like the look of the pits and don‘t know if we want the grout (which is a slightly darker color) filling the pits. Any suggestions?
Yes you can use the same mortar I prefer to use the 1/4 inch trowel because I've seen to many tiles not well enough adheard with the 1/8 inch.On the travertine I'm in agreement with you to keep the pits.Simply blue tape over the tiles then grout.Hope this helps 8 yr experienced tile installer.
Q:I am ready to tile a kitchen island, it has the rough shape of HOME PLATE, though not pointy. What is the best way to cover those odds angles effectively? Should I butt two edge tiles together? Also, I am not fond of the 16th inch spacing in tiles, I prefer 1/4 in gaps...any issues for the top of counter. The sides will be 1/8th gap.AdamDeridder,La
My hubby tried to tile ours...BIG mistake!! LOL Go to Home Depot and get help. LOL
Q:Dont want to lay down the rock. Want to attach strait to the plywood due to dish washer stove and cabinets. What is the best way for long lasting tile strait to plywood?
Going straight to the ply wood sub floor will only result in failure of the tile to bond. There will be to much deflection in the floor , the bond will break between the thin set and the sub floor. There is a thinner system you can use called Ditra. Thin mat that is applied to the sub floor and then tiled over. If your dishwashers adjustable legs can be adjusted more or if they re all the way adjusted to max you can tile up to them. You ll still be able to get the washer out. I have seen one yet that can t be taken out,its a struggle but it can be done. I suggest the 1/2 cement board,properly installed, since this meets all tile codes,(both ATC and TCA) to properly support tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:I want to put tiles down on my kitchen floor, but first I need to pull up the old pattern. It is a whole piece of laminate flooring that is starting to come undone where the dining room and kitchen meet. So how would I go about doing this? Do i just pull the laminate up? Is there a specific way to put the tiles down?
First okorder . Good luck.

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