• Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality System 1
  • Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality System 2
  • Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality System 3
Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality

Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Petrochemical Process Pump


Description of Petrochemical Process Pump

ASP5030, ASP5040 series are centrifugal chemical process pumps, which are developed based on the advanced pump manufacturing technologies domestic and abroad. They are designed to be horizontal single stage single suction radial split series pumps in line with the specifications in API610(the eighth version)and API682.
They can be applied for the power of 50HZ and also 60HZ.
The pump follows the standard of ISO, API, GB, ASTM and JIS.
Different materials for wetted parts is available according to the liquid characteristic. 


Application Area of Petrochemical Process Pump

Refinery, Petrol-chemical industry, coal processing industry and low-temperature project
Chemical industry, paper-making, pulp industry, sugar industry and the common process industry
Water supply plant, seawater desalination plant
Heating&air conditioning system
Power plant
Environmental protection project
Shipping&marine industry, etc.
Performance Range
DN: 25~400mm
Capacity(Q): 2500M3/h
Head(H): 250m
Working temperature: -80oC~450oC
Working pressure: (P): ASP5030up to 2.5MPa ASP5040up to 5.0MPa

Structural Characteristics of Petrochemical Process Pump

ASP5030 series is foot-supported. ASP5040 is center-supported.
The balancing holes with wear-resistant rings are applied for the impeller to balance the axial force.
There are cooling or heating pipe joints for the packing box.
The packing seal, single mechanical seal or double mechanical seal can all be applied for the shaft seal. There is also auxiliary cooling, flushing or sealing liquid systems.
Taper-threads are applied for flushing and cooling joints for the casing, pump cover, intermediate bracket and sealing gland, which enhances its sealing ability and reliability for pipings.
The pumps with their outlet diameter more than 80mm. Their casings are designed to be of double volute to balance its radial force, which guarantees the bearing service time and the bending capability for the shaft at the shaft seal.
Closed impellers are applied for both ASP5030 and ASP5040 series pumps, which are characterized by their high adaptability, high efficiency and low NPSH etc.
Open impeller is applied to transmit the gas and liquid two-phase and the liquids with great solid particles concentration(max. Particles diameter 8mm, or 10% volume concentration).
Bearing structure and cooling: Bearing bracket is supported with a set of radial ball bearing and two sets of thrust ball bearings mounted in back-to-back. Bearings are lubed with oil rings or oil mist when specified. Bearing outside surface is furnished with cooling fin, which can be air cooling (T<120oC), fan cooling(T=120oC~260oC)and water cooling(T=260º C~450º C).


FAQ

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.



Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality

Q:Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q:99 Cherokee I6. There is low pitched noise coming from the area of the water pump and alternator. Like a grinding grumbling. The water pump pulley is not loose and will not rock back and forth. Nothing is leaking. Tomorrow is forecast as icey and I have a choice of sending my wife 30 miles each way to work in the Cherokee or a 2005 Mustang, which is absolutely terrible in the snow or ice. I can get the car into the shop on Thursday for diagnosis and repair. Since the pulley is not loose I am thinking it will be OK for another day even if it is the water pump bearings. Thoughts?
I continue to be amazed at the poor advice offered on this site. Water pump bearings are sealed and therefore not able to be lubricated. Please do not add oil to your cooling system as you will contaminate your cooling system. While it is true that spraying WD-40 on the pulley will quiet the noise IF IT WAS A BELT NOISE!! And yes it will effect the other pullies since this vehicle most likely has a serpentine belt. If you can, pull the serpentine belt off and spin each pulley to determine which one is making the noise. If it cannot be detected this way, use a long screwdriver or other piece of long, thin metal and place it close to each pulley. this will tell you which one it is. If it is the water pump, or alternator, it will most likely be safe to wait for a couple of days to get it serviced. I would keep the Mustang in the garage and send her in the Jeep. Just don't wait much longer to get it serviced.
Q:I have a four cylinder ranger with manual transmission. The top pulley was making a squeaking sound the other day and stopping and going. The car stalled out so I had to give it gas for about a minute, and this has happened several more times in the past week. And the car is making a somewhat loud rumbling/clanking noise, which I'm guessing is the bearings on the water pump. So my question is how much will a new water pump cost, I've seen prices quoted on here from $150-$700. Also, it was in the mechanic the other week and I asked him to check the ac compressor and he said it was fine.Thanks
Why not call your mechanic for an estimate? He's (or she's) already familiar with your vehicle. Also, they may determine that it's something other than you water pump.
Q:I just came from my dealership and they tested my car with a pressure test. They didnt notice any coolant leaks. Last week my car I noticed that the coolant level has decreased. I had to replenish it in an emergency effort. I am curious to check the water pump. I am going to ask my mechanic tomorrow if he could check it and how much does something like that cost to check? I DO NOT want any coolant leakage getting into my engine because that could present a problem. How can it possibily get to the engine???
If you had a water pump leak you'd know it! There would be coolant draining out of water pump seal the minute you filled the cooling system. A water pump leak doesn't get coolant into the motor. It will get the timing belt wet with antifreeze and cause the belt to jump time and possibly bend your valves. The only way you'll get coolant in the motor oil is if there is a head gasket leak. To check for that you need to have a block test done.
Q:cars leaking coolant from the right side just dont kno if its the water pump
Water pump will be at the front center of the engine usually about 2 behind the fan belt Please be very careful never to allow the vehicle to run low on coolant or serious and expensive engine damage will occur. If in doubt don't drive it until its fixed Take a flashlight and take a good look over the whole engine compartment giving close attention to all the hoses connecting the engine to the radiator its best to find the exact location of the leak and get it fixed.Coolant leaks usually leave a discolored stain so this may help in finding it. Also take a look at the carpet on both front floorpans of the vehicle its possible that the cars heater may have failed and this will leak coolant all over either 1 or both floor pans which can then leak out on to the ground below via a drain hole.
Q:Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?
Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ impeller, its outer diameter is not the same, 60HZ impeller slightly smaller. Because the speed of the impeller of 60HZ is faster, the impeller is a little smaller.Flow rate and speed, impeller diameter into a relationship: Q1/Q2 = n1/n2=D1/D2;Head and speed into two relations: H1/H2 = (n1/n2) 2Motor shaft power and speed into three relations: P1/P2 = (n1/n2) 3From the above deduction, we can know that the motor speed formula is n=60f/p, in which n is motor synchronous speed, and F is supply frequency. P is the pole number of the motor. It is known that the power supply frequency of the motor is proportional to the speed of the f. Therefore, to obtain the same head or flow, high speed, to use a smaller impeller.
Q:I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?
The water pump has a gasket inside to stop coolant from leaking out. When the gasket fails, coolant comes out of what is called a weep hole. If you don't replace the water pump, the bearing gets saturated with coolant and fails. When the bearing fails, the water pump pulley ceases and the belt fails. I have seen this too many times.
Q:I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
Q:We have an electric sump pump. Battery pumps will only work for two or three days. I want a manual pump that will pump a lot of water. We cannot waterproof the basement because it costs over $10,000. Where can I find a manual pump? Carrying water out in buckets is too slow and exhausting. We carried 80 five gallon buckets out last time the electricity was off for a few hours.
What you need is a generator to run the pump when your hydro is off. Check walmart.
Q:Hi, my mechanic said that I need a new water pump. I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE. What is involved with the whole changing of a water pump? He said it would cost about $400 to $500 for the whole job. Is that correct? Were is a good place to go get one? I live in Staten Island New York. Is sears a good place for that job? What is installed when they do this job? Belts or what??? I thank you for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. I will be taking my car in this week and will leave a best answer based on the correct information. Thanks again :-)
It all depends on what size engine you have, the 3.0 is the worst and then the other two aren't as bad and 4 or 5 hundred seems like allot but these days when the garages are charging 100 an hour that probably isn't to bad specially in New York, the best place is probably the dealer.

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