PAK GOLD STONE CMAX9881

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Specifications of Porcelain Tile

1.Polished porcelain tile

2.Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

3.Water absorption:<0.5%

4.Sizes: 600 x 600mm or 800 x 800mm

6.Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

7.Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

8.Transportation: by sea

9.Package: 4 pcs/Ctn for 600mm; 3 pcs/Ctn for 800mm


Applications of Porcelain Tile

1.Suitable for homes flooring tiles

2.high grade office buildings

3. high-grade hotel flooring tiles,

4.government and corporate projects flooring tiles

5.deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles


Pictures of porcelain tiles

porcelain tile

porcelain tile

Usage of porceain tile


porcelai tiles

porcelain tile


Polishing Line of porcelain tile


polishing line


Packing Line of porcelain tile


packing warehouse


Certificate of porcelain tile


porcelain tile


Advantages of porcelain tile


  • Green Product

  • Guarantee/Warranty

  • International Approvals

  • Packaging

  • Price

  • Product Features

  • Product Performance

  • Prompt Delivery

  • Quality Approvals

  • Reputation

  • Service

Main Export Markets:


  • Asia

  • Australasia

  • Central/South America

  • Eastern Europe

  • Mid East/Africa

  • North America

  • Western Europe

Here you can find good products, better price and the best service!


Looking forward to receiving your inquiry

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Q:How to quickly remove the transparent tape on the tiles
1, with a steel ball rub can solve the problem. 2, first with water and detergent mixture pour up the transparent tape on the residue, so 5 minutes or so let him wet with a damp cloth can be a direct rub 3, art knife oblique scraping about. 4, to the paint shop to buy rosemary, it is easy to wipe off 5, the most simple to take washing water spray, clean with a clean ball 6, very easy to do, with a wet towel dipped in detergent do not melt, just fine. 7, to the paint shop to buy a bottle of perfume, fell on the cloth. Soon you can wipe, with the next cover can also be used in the next. 8, there is gasoline can quickly erase 9, with a large treasure or other paint on the face of oil can be 10, with soapy water or pure alcohol can get 11, you can use hot water plus detergent scrub 12, there is a special adhesive cleaning agent, you can buy to the supermarket. At least online.
Q:what kind of tiles to use on my driveway?
Regular tiles will not be able to handle the weight of a car. Even slate will crush under the weight of a car. Why do you want to tile your driveway? Why not try pavers, almost like brick, and they fit together you could use sand in between the cracks to set them. Or how about decoratice cement stamping? That looks nice as well. I have never seen tiles that could hold a car.... gl!
Q:wood stove tile mural?
Opinion: I would never tile anything and then try to move/install it. You will surely crack the tile or grout, even if it is on cement board. Besides, it will only make it heavier and more difficult to install. And generally, a mural will look better if it covers the entire surface... you can put neutral/fading-away-color tiles around the edges. Unless you have a plan to transition from the tile to a different non-flammable (non-painted) flat surface.
Q:How to correctly start tile job?
As others have said, start in the center and make your cuts all on the edges, but be careful you don't end up with a sliver of tile. Measure and pencil in the center of each leg of the L, so your chalk lines make an X at the center of the corner where the two parts meet. Then measure away from that line to see how each tile will get cut at the walls. If there is a pattern with strong lines on it, you have to be careful to lay out the cuts so that if there is any taper, due to the floor being not perfectly square...that you don't have cuts going across the lines and accentuating the error. So think ahead! If you can't help but have a funny edge, see if you can put it on a side that is covered with furniture, or isn't that visible in normal use. Do the same with the tile in the other rooms...do some measuring, and see what layout gives you the best size tiles. You don't want to have small tiles at the transitions from one room to another. Adjust your X starting point so your cut tiles are not too small. You should lay it out so you can use the biggest tiles you can (in other words, don't cut little strips to fill in a gap...shift the whole centerline over to make those slivers at least a 1/3 tile. Once you have your X starting point, put down 4 tiles around that X, and work out from the center, but don't run all the tile down the lines, then do another row, etc...work out in an expanding pattern. If you do a long run all at once, and are just off by a tiny bit at the start...the error with keep growing. Work out from your starting point, filling in all the floor as you go, leaving the edges to trim last. I strongly recommend the Time-Life books on this.
Q:Quarry tiles - replace or restore?
Quarry tiles are made from unrefined extruded, high silica alumina clay that gets pressed into the desired form and hard burnt. They are hard and durable but have a softer composition than ceramic tiles. It is an unglazed form of tile, which comes in a natural colour selection, red, brown and beiges. A good and cheap place to start is to try using raw linseed oil. This will usually remove most of your tough stains. You want to be careful about using acids on real quarry tile because they are very porous and acids could etch your tiles permanently. If the linseed oil doesn't do the trick then a more expensive alternative would be using Lithofin Victorian Tiled Floor Restorer and a good sealer is HG Golvpolish. You should be able to get these from good tile retailers. If the tiles are laid on earth, or on a lime bed on earth, they should not be sealed as they need to breath to avoid damp being trapped. The original tile finish was a clear oil and of course this still allows the tile to breath. Try Slate Dressing from a fireplace shop, this is colourless and will give a richness to the tiles.. Hope this helps.
Q:Hanging objects from an acoustic tile ceiling.?
If it's a suspended ceiling you're talking about, with the tiles held in metal framing, you can buy special little hooks that clip on to the metal framework. You should be able to get them at Home Depot, and probably office supply stores. You can also simply use a piece of thin wire and tie that around the metal frame, squashing it in a little so the tile sits flush again. If whatever you're hanging is too heavy for that metal framework, you have to take out a tile and find something higher in the ceiling that's sturdier. The ceilings are usually suspended from pretty strong wire. Find where that wire or other support is and you know where the strong point of the suspended part is. If it's acoustic tiles over a solid surface, you have to find a structural part inside the ceiling. A stud finder will come in handy for that but unfortunately you'll have to make a hole in the tiled surface to hang anything.
Q:What would be the best source for Moroccan tiles?
The okorder.com/ Cheers, and Good luck Anna,
Q:Recurrence Relations through tiling ?
to build a line of length n, andd a green tile to the right of a line of length n-2 or add either a red or blue tile to the rihgt of a line of length n-1 f(n) = f(n-2) + 2f(n-1) f(0) = 1 (there is 1 way to make a line of length 0: use no tiles) f(1)=2 f(2) = 5 f(3) = 12 f(4) = 29 f(6) = 70 f*6( = 169 f(7) = 409 f(8) = 985 f(9) = 2379
Q:How to put tile on painted drywall...?
iam not sure if tile glue will adhere to paint so you may have to strip the paint of the villa board wall (bathrooms are made with a cement based wall sheet called ,villa board/Fibre cement sheet/Fibro. Rest of the house is Drywall). you need - bucket a tile glue mixer ( an atachment that fits onto your drill) make sure to buy a glue that is designed for FC sheeting. a glue spreader ( it has square notches in it) plastic cross spacers and wedge spacers. a tile cutter OR an angle grinder with a mayssonry disk sillicon (ask for bathroom type) a silicon gun grout, Sponge, Grout spreader ( or a peice of rubber size of your hand will do the same) work out how your tiles will look by running some sqaure and straight lines so you can work off, once you get a straight row of tiles the rest will follow that line and you should line up nicely with the walls if you worked it out correctly. mix your glue to a custard type consistancy and smear up the wall with the notches spreading your glue. place first tile by coming at the wall at a 90 dgr angle to the wall then lightly lift and press the tile onto the wall, put in your cross spacers and repeat for the next tile. Make sure not to leave any glue on tiles or souroundings as it is VERY hard to get off.!! And make sure to clean out the gaps between the tiles so grout can get in. once tiles are all in place allow 24hours dry time then you are ready for the grout (gap infil) when you buy the grout ask for a water proof one, all you do is mix it up till its a melted choclate consistancy and just press into the gaps at the same time wiping it up with a moist sponge untill it looks even and just a little bit below the tile surface. last step is to Sillicon up the edges with the wall meets the tiles with the same color as your grout
Q:Bathroom Floor Tiling?
SOME 10 point answers so far. I hope you acknowledge all of them. The issue relates to what you might want to change, Down the road and please know that home builders, don't usually do any flooring under a vanity,,,sigh. I've installed multiple thousands of sq. ft. of flooring, and have re-modeled more bathrooms than anything else, and have to say if nothing is in the bathroom yet, your looking at installing not much more than a 30x24 inch area of tile UNDER where the vanity will be, and less under where the toilet will be. At current prices, and without the added labor you're cost might be less than another $50 for the better way to go. Seems logical to me. Still, give everyone above me some thanks. Tiling, sheet vinyl, hardwood, Solid GOLD, UNDER a toilet is a natural assumption, and allows for NO odd cuts. Assume however, that one day you might want a pedastal sink as opposed to that GLIT vanity. If you install flooring Under, it'll still be there, if you change your notion. Very realistically TILE, etc. Will NOT be on the shelf, to match, 5 years from now. Steven Wolf

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