Oil Pump AY Series

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General Description
Type AY Serious Oil pump is a new product designed on the base of old type Y oil pump which is suitable for renewing equipment with the aim of saving energy. It is used for petroleum refinery, petrochemical, chemical industry and other petroleum, liquefied petroleum gas and other mediums which are inflammable, explosive, toxic, high temperature and high pressure without solid particles.
Performance range
Capacity:2.3~600m3/h
Head:30~603m
Temperature:t=-45℃~+420℃

Instruction of pump type
For example:
1:250AYS80
250—Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
S:First stage impeller is double-suction
80: Head of single stage (m)
2:80AY100X2B
80:Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
100:Head of single stage (m)
2: Stage number
B:Impeller cutting code
Construction:
The construction of oil pump type AY is divided into eight kind single-stage and single-suction overhung, double-stage and single-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, double-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting,multi-stage and ring section.
The single and double stage pump casing is installed horizontally with supported on the center line. The suction and discharge nozzle flanges are cast together on the pump casing and vertical upwards. The stuffing boxes and pump cover are cast together which can be installed with soft packing seal and mechanical seals such as balancing bellow and series. The water-cooled chamber jacket, which can be selected ,is installed outside of shaft sealing chamber the water cooled chamber will be installed only when required by customers or when the medium is water with temperature more the 66℃ and hydrocarbon compound with temperature more than 120℃.
A journal ball bearing and thrust bearing arranged back-to-back are installed on the bearing housing. The bearings are lubricated by flinger with thin oil. Cooling fins are cast outside of bearing housing which can be cooled by air(temperature is less than 120℃). The bearing housing also can be cooled by water(temperature is 120℃ to 420℃)
The pumps are driven directly by driver through the membrane coupling. View from motor end, the rotating direction is anticlockwise.

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Q:Long or short water pump?
Dude's lengths are incorrect.. The short pump is 5-5/8'' long and the long neck pump is 7'' long . That's with a V belt short block chevy....
Q:Problem with my domestic submersible water pump?
Try raising the pump a couple of feet. You may eventually need the well cleaned out.
Q:5.7 mercruiser water pump?
i've always gone by the 30 second rule. even a NEW or emptied for winter motor that must completely fill, 30 seconds should be long enough. if it hasnt begun pumping by that point, i turn it off and give it some time to cool while i double check everything. then i might give it a full 45 seconds. but it wont overheat in less then a couple of minutes. and if its not pumping with the hose hooked up, the impeller is probably bad already anyways. however, if you do even get it near warm, its already hotter then you think it is where the heat is produced, the cylinders, and where you have tight clearances on fast moving parts, the cylinders and pistons. and if it gets too hot, major damage is quickly done. BTW, service period on a merc impeller is always 100 hours or 3 years. or NOW, before the motor is damaged, if unsure of when it was last done. when the impeller is less then $50 (and about an hour labor, if paying for it) and a new motor is THOUSANDS, you cant replace it too often. dennis, you have NO clue. i suggest getting one before you ruin the motor in your own boat. and in the meantime, keep your bad advice to yourself.
Q:please tell? HOW CAN I PREVENT MY HOUSE SUPPLY, WATER PUMP - 'DRY RUNNING'?
There are pressure switches that have a low water cut out on them.If the pressure drops too low the switch will turn the pump off.This however my not be a 100% cure.If you used just enough water to turn the pump on and then shut the flow of water off and the pump was not pumping water for the reasons you stated it would continue to run and not build up enough pressure to turn it off.If you wanted to do some sort of timer you could contact an electrician and ask about a timer that could be acctivated when the pump comes on. I am not aware of any thing on the market made for this but a good electrician would know where to get the right components to do this.
Q:To Get At The Timing Belt On a Toyota 3.4L V6, Does The Water Pump Need To Be Removed?
If you are replacing the timing belt it is recommended you also replace the water pump. They have similar life spans and one has to be removed to replace the other.
Q:water pump went bad. changed it. car is still overheating. why?
Sounds like a typical air lock, you need to bleed the system, should hopefully be a bleed screw often running off heater pipe at the back of engine! Check to see if top and bottom pipe are hot when running, or heater not blowing warm usually a good indicator of air in system! Just found this! To bleed the cooling system on a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, there is a small brass bleeder valve located on the heater pipe that runs along the front of the motor (metal pipe). Open that valve a couple turns and pour in the antifreeze in the reservoir tank until antifreeze starts dripping from the bleeder hole. Tighten the valve, but be careful not to tight too tight, they are soft brass and break easy. Finish filling the reservoir to the Full Cold mark. After driving the car at least one time and letting it cool down, check the antifreeze level on the reservoir and fill as needed.
Q:My '97 Pontiac Grand Prix is leaking the water we put into it from underneath the car. Is it the water pump?
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q:how do I change out a 94 firebird water pump is it hard```?
no it is not normal for most cars but maybe yours it is..
Q:How can I pump the motor insulation?
A submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the electric box so that the pump shell shake shake, also must be reliable grounding to shake to now, the pump shell grounding not only in the water, it must be a wire connected with a shell or a wire will be immersed in water, this is right insulating shake,
Q:What is the influence of the speed of the pump motor on the pump?
Low speed, the pump has a certain wear and tear

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