• Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3202 F4 System 1
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3202 F4 System 2
Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3202 F4

Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DIN3202 F4

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Type:

Non-Rising Stem

Material:

Body:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron

Wedge:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM

Seat: EPDM / NBR

Shaft: SS410

Stem Nut: Brass

O-ring: EPDM, NBR

Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze

Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron

Operator:

Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator

Face to Face:

BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10

Flange:

BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50

Working Pressure:

16 Bar(200 PSI)

Design  and Manufacturer Standard

:

BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043

Test Standard:

API 598  BS6755 DIN 3230  JIS B2003

Application:

Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC










Q:hi im 13 years old and i am having my tricuspid valve repaired or replaced the doctors do know what they are going to do yet.what is the success rate of the operation ?and whats the survival rate of the operation ?all other info would be appreciatedthanksalex
you in straightforward terms choose surgical operation whether it rather is ruining your life or if the surgeon thinks it is going to without warning worsen. Open coronary heart surgical operation contains an significant possibility. in the event that they carried out it on each and every case of something being incorrect, greater human beings could be worse off after the surgical operation than till now the surgical operation.
Q:My washing machine had hot and cold water, but was leaking. I changed the inlet valve which stopped the leak, but now I have no hot water. When I put the setting on warm, the cold water runs for a bit. Then stops and no hot water comes. Any help?
I suspect the leaking valve that was replaced was your washer's solenoid valve. Did you remember to turn the hot water supply valve on after you finished? That is the valve, next to the cold water supply valve, on/at the wall behind the washer. There are rubber hoses coming from those valves to the solenoid valves on your washer. If you forgot to turn it back on after replacing the leaking valve you'll get no water. If you turn off both the hot and cold supply valves on the wall you should be able to remove the rubber hoses right where they connect to the machine and check the water flow by directing them into a bucket or pan while you open the supply vales. If you have good pressure and flow make sure there is no debris clogging the screen, just inside there the hose connects to your machine. These can get blocked where the water won't pass or runs very slow. Sometimes it pays to check the simplest causes first. Good Luck. SS.
Q:here's some additional info asking of my question...I plan on buy a BLOWOFF VALVE and woundering where does the BLOWOFF VALVE goes in my car or do i have to replace with stock EGR VALVE using same hoses or help me please don't wanna screw this one up
Ben- If your car is not turbocharged you cannot install a blow-off valve. If your car is turbo-charged, this annoying device replaces the Waste Gate. What does a blow-off valve do for your car? NOTHING! It does not add horsepower. It is simply a noise maker to attract the attention of Law Enforcement. So what can you install to improve a Turbo-Charger's boost capability? HKS Controller, Cold Air Intake, Intercooler, High Flow Catalytic Converter, and some type of high performance exhaust system. What's this going to cost? $5000.00+ easy! Lastly, the Blow-Off Valve has nothing to do with the EGR Valve. Two totally different devices, performing two completely different tasks. And... not to burst your bubble. Since you don't know the difference between a Blow-Off Valve and an EGR Valve, I suggest you start taking some basic Automotive Technology classes BEFORE you get into learning about the high performance parts. Why? The last thing you want to do is get into something that is over your head, then have a very large repair bill on your hands because your inexperience in the task at hand is the result of the damage done to your car. One last item here. Performance does not equal fuel efficiency. The more horsepower you want, the more fuel will be required to make it. The more horsepower you desire, the lower the reliability. This becomes a factor because you will be harder on the parts which are doing the jobs required of them. So think before you decide to make major changes to your daily driver. Making performance changes to your daily driver, is a great way to have your friends passing you up with you stuck on the side of the road facing a big tow bill and an even larger repair bill. Bottom line, build your muscle car for a weekend romp, and leave the 4 Cylinder job shuttle alone. Just speaking from 25+ years of turning wrenches!
Q:My eight month old daughter was just diagnosed with pulmonary valve stenosis. Anyone have an experience with this? Did you have cardiac catherization? Did that fix the problem?
I don't know if it's the same but my son had aortic stenosis when he was born. After many tests it just went away and no they did not have to do a catherization. Never caused him any problems either.
Q:have a 86 flhtc had new cylinders 10-1 pistons supposed to be 86 cubic inches when i run it up to 90-95 bending valves what can i do to stop bending valves-------HARLEY DAVIDSON
The other answers are on the right track, but are failing to include the other possibilities. You say you have had the heads done...WHO did the headwork? Were oversized valves installed? What valve springs are you running and were they packed for proper and even seat pressures for the cam lift? Were the valve seats cuts for new valves and if so, was proper valve stem height set? What cam are you running?...What is the TDC lift on that cam? Were ALL clearances checked when the engine was assembled?...Meaning valve-to-valve clearance during valve overlap, not enough clearance and the valves will hit each other...valve-to-piston clearance, this is where the cam's TDC lift specs come into play, if you don't have the proper clearance, the valves will hit the piston........MINIMUM of .060 clearance on both of these checks. What lifters and pushrods are you running?...stock lifters can pump-up at high rpm and lift the valve too much causing it to contact the piston or the other valve. Are you 100% postive you are adjusting the pushrods to their manufacturer's specs...different pushrods manufacturers use different thread pitches that require different adjustment lengths. As you can see, if the engine wasn't PROPERLY built and all clearances checked, you have a MAJOR job ahead of you, this require extensive knowledge and tooling. If you assembled the engine, take it to a reputable performance shop and let them check it out, if a shop did the work, FIND ANOTHER ONE!!! Building performance engines is not easy work and not for the novice.
Q:my valve cap is leaking slowing how do i fix it what part do i need
It might be just the core that is leaking but I would have a new stem put in to be on the safe side.
Q:I've never replaced a shut off valve before but am wondering if there are any tricks in freeing up a stuck valve that wont close. Can this be done so I don't have to call anybody?
When valves are turned all the way in an open position they tend to get stuck. Try a heat gun but make sure you have a copper line feeding into the toilet tank, not a plastic one because it can melt. Just heat the valve for a few minutes at a time, because over heating it can damage the rubber washer inside the valve. If all fails then it has to be replaced by someone who is knowledgeable.
Q:I jsut got my valve cover replaced on my car what does that do?
Usually only the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced (unless you somehow damaged the valve cover itself). It does just what it says. It is the metal(2) located on the top of you engine that covers the valves. It needs to be replaced when the seals are allowing oil to come out.
Q:I'm using a Yamaha double horn, and I reeeeeeealllyyyyy need to work on an audition for Monday. But my second valve is coming up slowly, which is a huge trouble 'cause all the pitches sound wrong!What do I do? I tried oiling the valve, that hasn't worked.
listed under are 3 ideas i comprehend of - a million) take it in and function it wiped sparkling. this could fee everywhere upwards from $40. I paid $seventy 5 final time. 2) sparkling it your self. Take out each and all of the slides, pour some drops of dishwashing liquid cleansing soap into each and each valve (separately). Get it each and each of ways with the aid of, such as you may whilst employing oil. Use heat water and rinse out each and all of the cleansing soap. enable it dry. it is fairly tedious, yet has worked for me the couple situations i've got completed it. 3) Like somebody else mentioned, use a thinner valve oil to semi-rinse out the gumminess. This has additionally worked nicely for me. save the lead pipe sparkling!
Q:I'm installing a shut off valve under my sink. can you tell me all the materials that i need to install it by myself because to hire some body else is very expensive where i live. i need to change the old ones because they are leaking very bad when i want to use the sink.thanks a lot
if you have copper pipes i assume you need pipe cutters or a hacksaw a pair of channel locks and a crescent wrench some pipe dope for threads of compression fittings.

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