Non-negative Pressure Water Supply Systerm in a Building

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month
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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number: GDL
  • Theory: Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure: Multistage Pump

  • Usage: Water

  • Power: Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Fuel: electric

  • Pressure: High Pressure

  • Application: water

  • Material: Stainless Steel

  • Color: Any

  • Size: 50~300mm

  • Package: Plywood Case

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:standard plywood or carton for each non-negative pressure water supply systerm
Delivery Detail:10 days after receiving pre-payment

Specifications

water supply systerm in a building 
1. Removable, Portable, transportable 
2. Convienient 
3. Controlled Flow and Head

Non-negative Pressure Water supply systerm
Summarize

water supply systerm in a building  is our new design, which is used for building water supply,  fire fighting, flood, water supply station and so on. The systerm is controlled by Variable-frequency Drive, VFD.

Once you have this pump systerm, you do not need pump station any more, especial using in Prairie, Desert, city water supply, if the water source changed, you only move the pump container will be ok.

 

Main Features

1.1. Automatic control of constant water pressure

2.2. Set the pressure directly in the operator.

3.3. Built-in pressure or flow sensors, water level switch signal interface.

4.4. P.I.D control unmanned automatic monitoring of water pumps stoped function (dormant).

5.5. No need to configure the PLC can realize automatic alternating pump function.

6.6. Power outages or low water level automatically actived after the restore operation.

7.7. Controlle by thermostat.

8.8. Many pump-linked run-time, regular rotation as the master pump,so that the pump balanced working hours to prevent the pump speed of die wear and rust.

9.9. Adequate operation status monitoring, and complete motor protection features, simple operation.

10.10. To adapt to a variety of sensor signals:Pressure sensors, transmissible pressure gauge, eletric contact pressure gauges and pressure switches.

 

Full-automatic Control (Easy and Safe Controlling)

1. Solenoid Valve: Pressure backflow protection

2. Flow Sensor

3.Vacuum Pressure Sensor: Can know the inlet pressure,  once the valves all colosed,  will start reflux.

4. Flow Switch: if no water pass, the pump will stop working

 

Q:What causes a water pump on a car to go bad????? and are they a pain to change by yourself?????
I would say you have another problem. The water pump just pumps the water through the engine to keep it cool. In a 96 model cherokee I would assume you have the 4.0l V6. I would check the engine control module for damage. If you remove the module you can test it at autozone or some other parts center for free.
Q:I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna and it has 80k+ miles on it. I guess it is the drive belt that is making the noise and I decide to have it changed. I can have the timing belt changed too because it is due at 90k miles. The dealer guy told me that I should also have the water pump changed too because of 2 reasons:1. the new timing belt will cause pressure to the old water pump. If not changed, it will leak in weeks.2. it is cheaper to do it altogether.Without changing the water pump, it would cost about $300.All would cost $1000+.My friend who also has a Sienna that has more miles on it, told me that he did not have to change the water pump.Your advice about the water pump is?
When I change timing belts, I don't change water pumps. Since I do my own maintenance, I'm willing to spend another 4-5 hours tearing things apart to change the water pump if it subsequently fails. If I were paying a shop to do it, I'd have all the work done. Since the water pump is a moving part with bearing, its going to fail. Will it fail at 80k or 180k? Hard to tell. If you're willing to take the chance that it won't fail and are willing to pay the extra money to take it all apart again if it does, then don't change it. A better way to think of it might be in terms of how long you plan to own the vehicle. If you want to keep driving it another 100k miles, then I'd change it out now, if you plan on selling/trading it in in a couple more years, guess I'd be more inclined to skip it. Hope this helps.
Q:I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
Do you have the 3.4 or the 3.8? Oh well. No one bothers to give that sort of vital information on here... Don't forget to buy RTV when you go buy the pump. Anyway, the 3.4: To Remove: Drain the cooling system. Remove the drive belt guard if equipped. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove or disconnect the following: Drive belt. Water pump pulley bolts and pulley. Water pump bolts, pump and gasket. Clean the water pump mating surfaces. To Install: Install or connect the following: Water pump gasket and pump. Water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Water pump pulley and bolt until snug. Drive belt. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. Lbs.). If removed, install the drive belt guard. Fill the cooling system. Inspect for leaks. For the 3.8: To Remove: Drain the cooling system. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove or disconnect the following: Drive belt. Water pump pulley bolts. Water pump pulley. Power steering pump and reposition. Water pump bolts. Water pump. Water pump gasket. Clean and inspect the water pump mating surfaces. To Install: Install or connect the following: Water pump gasket. Water pump. Tighten the long water pump bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft. Lbs.) Tighten the short water pump bolts to 22 Nm (16 ft. Lbs.) Water pump pulley. Water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.) Power steering pump. Drive belt. Fill the cooling system. You're lookin' at eight bolts on the pump in most vehicles your make/model.
Q:nan
There are a number of different types of water pumps that operate according to different principles. For lots of information, including pictures and diagrams, do an internet search on water pump.
Q:I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
Because it doesn't drip when it's just sitting shows you that it doesn't leak untill it's hot pressurized. So, drive it until the temp is 'normal', then stop but leave the engine running see if you can find the drip with the engine hot. Also, the water pump is not a 'normal' source for lost coolant - More likely a lose hose clamp....
Q:All of a sudden I have no water coming to the house/anywhere from the pump/well outside. It's a newer well, good water quantity (Florida...no dry up problems), no sand in water. I'm new to this house and don't know much about the pump stuff. Is there something I should look at or switch on/off. The breaker is ok. Help, I need a shower! :) Oh, there were about 15 ants around some box, but it didn't look connected to the pump...it's a box to the pool filter thing.
No Water In House
Q:Where can I get a water pump housing for a 1987 Dodge Dakota, A junk yard?
You should probably try a salvage yard. They might have it, of course it probably wont be new....
Q:Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.
If it's leaking from the water pump, you may as well do the timing belt, idle and tension pulleys too since they have to come off to do the pump. That pump is visible, you should be able to see the coolant dripping from under the belt drive pulley.
Q:How do I know the pump pressure?
Flow 18 cubic meters / hour, lift 100 meters, power 4 kilowatts.The pressure supplied by the pump is 1.0Mpa, which is 10 kg pressure.Is it a multistage pump?
Q:can a worn water pump make the car idle high while in park when driven for a long period of time......03 grand prix
The water pump is only an impeller and moves fluid through the engine for the purpose of cooling. With that in mind, no, it should have no effect. Suspect you have a vacuum leak that is causing your high idle, check for a high pitched whistle and when you find it, fix it.

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