Multistage Horizontal Split Centrifugal Pump DK Series

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General Description
DK series pump is double-stage horizontal split centrifugal pump. It is widely used for water supply and drainage of industry, municipal facilities and agriculture irrigation. It can delivery clear water or other liquid which is physically and chemically similar to clear water. The inlet pressure should less than 0.6MPa and the temperature of the liquid is -20～80℃.
Performance range

Capacity Q: 18～1368 m3/h
Head H: 100～360m

Instruction of pump type

For example 40DK130

40: outlet diameter40mm

DK: Multi -stage horizontal split centrifugal pump

130: Rate head 130m

Structure

The pump is horizontal split casing. The pump inlet and outlet are located under split surface and are horizontally located on two sides of the pump casing; their centerlines are perpendicular to the pump axis. It is unnecessary to disturb the motor and the pipeline for maintenance, so it is very convenient to operate. The pump can use rolling bearing or sliding bearing. All other pumps use rolling bearings which get lubricated with grease except type 100DK230 and 250DK240 pumps with dilute-oil. Type 250DK360 pump uses sliding bearings which get lubricated with enhanced circulation of dilute-oil attached with dilute-oil station.

The direction of rotation

The rotor rotation of type 250DK240 and 250DK360 is counter clockwise looking from the motor to the pump i.e. the inlet is on the left and the outlet is on the right. The rotor rotation of all others is clockwise。

Material of main parts

The main parts of type 250DK360 pump: Cast steel or cast stainless steel. The main parts of all others: Cast iron.

Parts Range

pump, motor, common Foundation plate , sluice valve and check valve.

Remaind:

Please indicate the material of main parts in your inquiry or purchase contract. Any special requirement, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Q:i was wondering how hard it would be to chancge a water pump in a 1997 chrysler sebring.: Well, you will have to pull the belt for the car. Most likely will have to pull the alternator, power steering, ac compressor, and many other parts that are in the way. On an scale from one to ten and ten being the hardest, 4. If you have minimal knowledge, mechanic time.

Q:I just came from my dealership and they tested my car with a pressure test. They didnt notice any coolant leaks. Last week my car I noticed that the coolant level has decreased. I had to replenish it in an emergency effort. I am curious to check the water pump. I am going to ask my mechanic tomorrow if he could check it and how much does something like that cost to check? I DO NOT want any coolant leakage getting into my engine because that could present a problem. How can it possibily get to the engine???: If you had a water pump leak you'd know it! There would be coolant draining out of water pump seal the minute you filled the cooling system. A water pump leak doesn't get coolant into the motor. It will get the timing belt wet with antifreeze and cause the belt to jump time and possibly bend your valves. The only way you'll get coolant in the motor oil is if there is a head gasket leak. To check for that you need to have a block test done.

Q:55KW how large is the water pump wiring?: Transmission within 100 meters, 70 square millimeter aluminum cable, or 50 square millimeter copper cable. If you exceed 100 meters, you'll have to add a number to the cable.

Q:Does the water pump pump the coolant into the engine or pump it out?: Strictly speaking, the pump is powered cooling fluid circulation, which is pumped into and out of the water pump is to rely on to complete the engine, the water tank and the pipelines are connected to form a closed loop, the engine cooling water tank, heat release, heat exchange by circulating cooling liquid, and let the power coolant flow up from the water, like the human heart as the power of the arteries and veins are provided by the contraction and relaxation of the heart of the.

Q:Which is the better option for a home water pump? a submersible pump or floor based pump?: last week i got a price on a above ground pump it pumps water up from 100 ft. it sure beats pulling 100ft of caseing every few years

Q:I had high-pitch noise coming from my engine; it was coming from the belt area. I change the belts but the noise is still happening. After doing some research, I noticed that the noise is coming from the Water pump bearings. I installed this water pump Last year and the warranty is expired on it. A friend told me that if a bearing goes bad on a Water pump, then I should flush the cooling system because it leaves metal shavings into the engine. Is this true? I already flushed my cooling system at the mechanic (he has a special machine) about 2 weeks ago. Is it necessary to do another flush because of bad Water Pump bearings?: I think the more pertinent question is why your water pump bearings went bad after only two years. It is very likely that the belts were put on waaaaaay too tight- this can cause premature bearing wear. You can get metal shavings in your cooling system from a bad water pump bearing, and any good mechanic will flush the system when they replace the water pump. When you replace your belts, a good rule of thumb is the thumb rule. Push down on the belt with your thumb using moderate pressure. It should give no more than the width of your thumb. Good luck.

Q:I drive a 1995 Acura integra ls model I'm mechanically inclined just not enough to do a headgasket (more patience wise) my car loses coolant once in every 3 weeks it starts to over heat. I don't have white smoke coming out of the exhaust or milky oil. Everything else runs smooth on my car. I've head it pressure tested and every thing else checks out so I'm kind of lost. All hoses are fine and not leaking and there is no coolant leaks showing up on the ground. Any ideas?: You are probably right about the water pump leaking, Of course you wont see it until you remove that cover and put a pressure tester on it... Sometimes they leak better with no pressure on them, Kind of like the piddle valve on the radiator cap.

Q:i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you: The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.

Q:I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.: Why okorder /

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