• Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 1
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 2
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 3
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 4
Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,

Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,

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Model: AC12V/35W

Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC  9V-32V

Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A   3.5A

Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude

Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude

Max. Start Voltage: 23kV

Switch Time : >100000 Times

Working Output: 35W±3W

Working Efficiency: ≥97%

Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc

Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)

Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)

Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen

H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model


Q:2003 Toyota Avalon XLS.The battery was installed in Aug 2013 (before I owned the car) according to the label on it. The battery itself and the connections look good with no rust on the terminals or the wire, however, I did clip and put a new, better end on the negative cause it was slightly questionable. (Still the lights flickered after that). Went to Advance Auto and had them run a battery/charge test. (all the tests were run off the battery) Results:Good batteryVoltage: 13.01VMeasured 539 ccaRated for 575 ccaTemp: 66FCharging SystemNo Load: 14.09VLoaded: 14.11V36mV RippleStill, the lights flicker. Alternator issue? I‘m about to install a 300w amp too.Hmmm. If its the alternator I‘ll obviously just replace it but would like to leave that as a last resort.
Measure between the negative battery post and the chassis. I bet you have a missing engine to chassis ground. It could also be a bad alternator. They often test good because they get intermittent. Battery and alternator tests in shops are overrated.
Q:I just got a piece of **** car, and whenever i brake, or when i turn the left side blinker on, the taillight dims instead of getting brighter. Also, the left turn signal blinks slower than the right turn signal. Even on the dash, the little arrow blinks slower than on the right. I compared the actual bulb with the other, and its dimmer when lit. I JUST bought new bulbs twenty minutes ago, even the old bulbs did this. So i don‘t know if i have a short in the wire or what, i already looked back by the light and all the wires are old, but look fine. I don‘t know if somewhere inside the car frame something happened or up where they go to the battery, but the whole left side lighting system is screwed up. Any help before i call the auto shop?
If there was a short, it would blink faster because of more current passing through the flasher relay. Sounds like you have corrosion somewhere in the system, causing increased resistance. No choice but to start at the bulbs, and grounds, and clean every connection along the way.
Q:I have a 1997 Buick Le Sabre and I can‘t find the cigarette lighter socket in my car!Anyone known that please response to me about that!Thank you so much
If you want one you can buy the complete unit at autozone and install it, your car probably didn't have one installed at the factory as it is an option now.
Q:what could cause my check engine to come on and stay on and my interior light also stays on sometimes?
A check engine light can be caused by a number of things from a faulty gas cap to O2 sensor to temp.sensor. An interior light that stays on could be a faulty door switch or a short in the bulb receiver. Also, check all ground wires that you can find. Make sure they are connected. I had a Silverado that ran great until it warmed up but when it did warm up it threw check engine lights. After a lot of blood, cursing and tears I discovered a broken ground from the cab to the engine block. Good luck
Q:Yesterday my check engine light came on, so I took it to Auto Zone. The guy scanned it and the code was insufficient egr flow. He recommended trying Gumout complete fuel system cleaner, before spending $45 for a new valve. Is there a chance it will work? I have a 2000 Mercury Sable by the way.
I do not think it will. Sounds like a clog in the EGR. How many miles are on the motor, and have you ever replaced the EGR before? EGRs go bad, most of the time you can do nothing about it. You could try to take it off and clean it out, that might help.
Q:How to check the car lights
First, the headlamps should have enough brightness and intensity, the car headlamps luminous intensity, full brightness, in order to ensure that drivers driving at night to identify the road in order to enable us to observe the first time in the road unexpected situation, so that we Stay away from danger. In general, each driving fifty thousand kilometers or two or so, the brightness of the headlamp bulb will be weakened, then if the lights are not enough light, you need to replace the lamp in time. In the replacement of the car light bulb should pay attention to is not to use inferior products, but should choose the original matching lights, because only the original matching lights, its quality and safety can be guaranteed.
Q:I usually have this little orange light that I can see under park reverse etc however since the battery light has came on, at night time I can not see this at all now. My lights work and everything else works however I‘m worried because the battery light is staying on. Any help?
Take it to a parts store like Autozone. They can usually test the computer in the car to see what error is causing the light to stay of if the battery is okay. They can also test the battery to make sure it's not a legitimate problem. They should do all that for free as well. So I'd try that before taking it to a mechanic.
Q:I just bought the vehicle used and don‘t know what‘s been done to it mechanically. The manual talks about problems with the emissions control system and not to drive too far or at excessive speeds. I just need ideas about what maintenance repairs can be done to possibly eliminate any major issues.
Have the system scanned by a professional. There are too many things that can set a code to even start guessing.
Q:The check engine light came on and when I brought it to Advanced Auto Parts the print out DTC code is P0455 and the description is EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large). Can anyone help me I just need an idea of what the problem could be? Thank you!
It's the charcoal canister, the vent valve, or any of the hoses running to them. It can also be just a loose or defective fuel cap. Buy a new cap and drive it for a week and see if the light goes off. If this doesn't solve the problem you will need to take it to the dealer. The EVAP system is more complicated than most people are prepared to handle themselves. The good news is the you should be able to drive the vehicle until you can get it fixed.
Q:How much would it be to just get a mechanic to look at it or is it just that my engine oil was cold that this happened the temp Gauge was way over in the cold side
likely an O2 sensor, or could just be the need to running till it gets warm drive it on th highway for awhile and it might clear. that warning light IS NOT critical. you can get it scanned and find out exactly what tripped it later, but it's not something you need to worry about immediately.

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