• Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump System 1
  • Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump System 2
  • Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump System 3
  • Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump System 4
Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump

Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice

Item:
Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Sewage Pump

Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump 


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump



Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump

Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump




Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump


Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump

 Pictures Show

Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump

Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump



 


 Trading market

Macerating/Grinder Submersible Swegae Pump

Transportation

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Q:I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!
We have owned Honda's for years, including three 90's Civics. We have had the timing belts changed by the dealer also - also the cheapest price - and they have always recommended changing the tensioner and the water pump while in there. The timing belt is such a critical piece of equipment that is should be changed on schedule. The new belts go much longer than the old belts. But it's only a hundred more at most to have the water pump replaced at the same time so make them do it. If you water pump goes out in another 20000 miles, the labor charge to get to it will be 400 or 500 bucks. Most dealerships will do the water pump for parts cost markup if they are also doing your timing belt. You can also negotiate your price with a dealership. Try it. If they won't budge, find a new dealer.
Q:Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q:Can someone please post a picture of how to find a Water Pump on a 1992 Dodge Spirit with a K2.5L Engine, it would be much appreciated. :)
yea you might want to post in the maintenance section or dodge section....
Q:How can the pump be stationary?
1, the pump bearing lubrication interruption, bearing burn.2, locking the rotor is jam.3, foreign body corrosion serious impeller lock.
Q:I just opened up the water pump on my '86 cr250 and found it to be pretty dry. Found out why as soon as I threw some light on it. Yep, all but a TINY hole in both hose nipples (?) are completely gunked up in some nice light green/white crap.Does anybody know what this is? Okay obviously it's coolant, but why is it so dry? What causes it? My bike never quot;overheatedquot;, but there's very little travel room for the liquid. What should I do now? Clean it out and run new water through it?
Appears your cooling system has not been flushed for years thus the build-up of slime, (seems maybe even 'dry-slime'). The cooling system should be flushed clean, a new water pump and gaskets installed.
Q:Im replacing the water pump in my 1992 toyota celica, and i cant get the pully off! i have been working hard for like an hour, i took the belts off. all i have is good old fashoned sockets and crescent wrenches. do i need to get the pully off? and is it lefty loosey and righty tighty or righty loosy lefty tighty?? because sometimes i hear they reverse it. thanks- jordan
I am sure you would have to get the pulley off in order to access the bolts holding the water pump on. Is there not 4 bolts holding the pulley on? I agree with Don below here. My experience with toyota water pumps was with my 1986 toyota pickup where the pulley did come off after removing the fan.
Q:Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
You want the pump specific to the engine. And the motor mounts specific to the vehicle. I have never seen a fan clutch that cannot be replaced separate from the water pump.
Q:What is the difference between a sewage pump and a clean water pump? Why can't sewage be pumped with clean water?
The clean water pump and the sewage pump are different from the design. It also requires different material. Sewage pump requires material of solid phase friction, acid and alkali corrosion resistance, and other high resistance, and clean water pump can ignore these requirements. In addition, the sewage pump in a large proportion of large solids content of the fluid can also work normally, and clean water pump in the design can not meet the long-term use of this environment requirements.Of course, clean water pump can also be used for sewage, but only temporary measures, and the life expectancy, the effect can not be guaranteed.
Q:I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.
Q:i took off the water pump cover on my 1986 cr 250 and discovered that the impeller wont come off. ive tried turnig it the wrong way and the right way. can someone please tell me how to get it off.
Remove the water pump cover, Now you will see the impeller and it has a little 10 mm(I think) nut fitting on it. Put the bike in gear and apply the rear brake. Now unscrew the impeller with a socket wrench. Take it easy as they are quite soft. Once that is off, you should be able to pry the seal out, and pop a new one in. A good way to get old seals out is to use a screw, screw it in to the seal then grab it with the pliers. You might want to replace the oil seal while you are there since they are so cheap. To do this though you will have to remove the rh crank case cover cause this seal sits in the inside of this cover. This is also an easy job. When you remove the rh crank case cover ( with impeller already removed) the water pump shaft should just slide out from the inside and give you easy access to both seals.

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