Q:We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?

you need spacers...( couple $'s a bag, only 1 bag needed..)You need to grout the tile after applying to the wall, wait 24 hrs or as the mortor says....I would recommend a grout sealer- they can be brush on or spray on..the grout will collect dust, grease and be a nightmare to clean ... in bathrooms you normally put backerboard before tile( it is made of concrete and keeps the water from penetrating to the drywall...imagine having to rip out the dryway and re do it....If they are simple sq tiles, no pattern involved, then you can start at the edge/ end...if you want the corners to be 2 perfect sqs meeting- that is where you should start- then you won't have a cut piece butting up to an uncut or two cuts meeting (this is what sounds right for your project) ...you can use the backsplash as a base---to support the tile as it dries. Use painters blue tape to help hold it to the wall until then....do one row all along the backsplash using the backsplash as support and a small piece of tape securing it to the wall until the mortor takes hold..remove the tape to start on the next row up and secure with tape as before... ntinue until done. Use spacers 1/4 to keep things straight...use a level to get 1st row straight, snap chalk line/ draw line... PLEASE- double check your thinset to be sure it is recommended for your size tile and for wall use...the premixed stuff has a tendency to shrink up as it dries (and it stays wet for a VERY long time esp in high humidity/ moist areas)...causing your tile to come free from the surface it is attatched to... I would get a small bag of the real, mix it yourself mortor- it is concrete and dries as such... I have used the premixed stuff and had terrible results. Have fun!

Q:In a professionaly done job, what level of imperfection is acceptable. 12x12 porcellaine tile installed over backerboatd.at least a dozen tiles set either higher, lower, or tilted. Comapny says this is acceptable.

I wouldn't consider that acceptable. They should all be pretty much flush.

Q:The tile is blue and white and are each about 3x3 inches wide?Can you lay new tile over the top or paint it?

Screw 1/4 plywood over the tile and apply the mosaic over that....

Q:I was told that a granite tile countertop is a cheap way to upgrade countertops. can I install granite tile over the existing laminate countertop? do I need any to install any material between the laminate countertop and the granite tiles? thanks

Granite Tile Countertop Over Laminate

Q:I am considering learning how to become a tile setter. Do any of you know if it is difficult for women?

This is not a completelt difficult manual labor type of job. I'd say its a bit easier than working constrution or other labor jobs. My father owns a construction company and I've seen a hand of woman work for him with little or no problems. You can be anything you want, as long as you work hard and are dedicated to it. There's no reason you cannot set tiles as a living just becayse you are a woman. In fact, woman tend to do well with fields that require thinking and setting things up. I think this job could probably suit you very well. I wish you the best! And good luck :)

Q:Is it better to use ceramic or vynil tile in the bathrooms and why?(example: how it feels on your feet if you live in a state where it gets really cold in the winter, how easy are they to clean, etc.)Thanks!

Vinyl floors can be dangerous in bathrooms. They're VERY slick if the floor gets wet or if you get out of a shower/tub with wet feet. You can put heaters under ceramic tile or place rugs on the floor if you're worried about coldness.

Q:I want to replace the existing ugly linoleum/vinyl floor in my bathroom with tile. With the right information and tools, I don‘t see why I can‘t do it myself. Any ideas on the pros and cons of different types of tile? What‘s least likely to get scratched, and what is least likely crack and need to be replaced? Which is easiest to clean, etc.? I‘m not crazy about a rough feel or look to the tile. So, I‘m thinking of glazed ceramic or polished stone. Also, my bathroom is very small. I wouldn‘t need to use more than 35-40 square feet of tile. Do you think 12x12 size tiles would look too big? Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated!

This Site Might Help You. RE: which is best for bathroom floor tile? Ceramic, porcelain, stone, marble? I want to replace the existing ugly linoleum/vinyl floor in my bathroom with tile. With the right information and tools, I don‘t see why I can‘t do it myself. Any ideas on the pros and cons of different types of tile? What‘s least likely to get scratched, and what is least likely crack...

Q:I was cleaning a house today, and I accidentally dropped a few drops of bleach on a earth colored ceramic tile. The lady wants me to fix it, but the local carpet cleaners/tile guys want to charge me too much. Is there a way to repaint the tile? Or to strip away the bleach?

The tile should have been sealed, and then re-sealed every year by the people at the carpet store - you are not responsible for her not maintaining her house. I understand that probably doesn't help you - the short answer is - the tile is cheap and painted/stained not all the material dyed to match. You may be able to fix it by using a similarly colored Porcelain stain, or other stain type - just be very careful that you don't get stain on the grout - and once the tile is stained make sure it is sealed.

Q:We are in the process of buying a Fannie Mae home which is in very good condition. We did however find a hairline crack on about 6 of the 12 x 12 tiles in the master bathroom floor. The Home Inspector said there are no signs of foundation problems on the outside of the home. He said because we live in Texas the ground settles and expands and this could have caused the crack. Because there are no signs of foundation troubles on the outside of the home as long as we water the foundation we shouldn‘t have any problems. There is also a door that closes on it‘s own which indicates there could be a crack? However it‘s just one door out of about 12. Should we be worried or does the inspector know what he‘s talking about.

Actually he does know what he is talking about. Texas is known for ground heaving and settling due to very wet alternating with very dry conditions. That's a lot to ask of a foundation. The door probably needs to be rehung by a carpenter so it doesn't close by itself, but I have doors that do that and I live 1000 miles away from you. As for the tile cracks, that could be due to the foundation or just the mortar that the tiles were set in - maybe it was uneven. If that's all that's wrong with the house, you're in pretty good shape.

Q:What are the tiles to note? How bad is it?

Look at the material of the product, the surface flatness, the three-dimensional color, the surface finish, the edge is not deformed