Lightly Galvanised Steel Wire

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Product Description:

Commercial Galvanised Steel Wire

(1) Quality : Meet GB/T 343 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(2) Zinc Coating: Meet GB/T 15393 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(3) Raw Material : Wire rod ——1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc with 99.995% purity.

(4) Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)

Tensile Strength (mpa)

0.15-1.60

290-550

0.65-1.60

400-550

1.61-6.00

400-1200

(5) Application : Used in wire mesh , artware , metal hose , binding for agriculture and construction , etc.

(6) Packing

Size (mm)

Coil Size

Spool Packing

Big Coil Packing

ID (mm)

OD (mm)

0.15-0.26

6 inch

1-14kg/spool

0.27-0.60

8 inch

1-100kg/spool

0.61-1.60

12/14/16 inch

1-100kg/spool

250-400

400-770

1.61-6.00

14-500kg/spool

450

800

508

840


(7) Zinc Coating

Meet GB/T 15393 standard.

Size (mm)

Weight of Zinc-Coating ( g/m2 )

A

AB

B

C

D

E

F

A1

B2

0.25

30

20

18

>0.25-0.40

30

25

20

>0.40-0.50

30

20

>0.50-0.60

35

20

>0.60-0.80

120

110

40

20

>0.80-1.00

150

130

45

25

>1.00-1.20

180

150

50

25

>1.20-1.40

200

160

50

25

>1.40-1.60

220

180

50

35

30

>1.60-1.80

220

180

70

40

30

>1.80-2.20

230

200

80

50

40

>2.20-2.50

240

210

80

55

40

>2.50-3.00

250

230

90

70

45

>3.00-4.00

270

250

100

85

60

30

>4.00-5.20

290

270

110

95

70

40

>5.20-6.00

290

270

245

110

100

80

50


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by wiring kit do you mean the amps power kit? some of which will include speaker wire for the subs anyway usually your amp will come with instructions that tell you what the minimum gauge is the amp will accept for power, this is the gauge power and ground cable you will want to get maximum power to the amp and to prevent overheating issues, typically amps under 400 watts rms power will do fine with 8 gauge, amps 400-1000 rms will use 4 gauge and 1000+ will use 2/0 gauge wire, for the subwoofer speaker wire you can never go too big gauge only too small, a kicker 12 gauge speaker wire will work for almost any application
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Do noot wire them in series. Get a book on basic house wiring so you understand what the term means. Best solution is for you to hire a local qualified professional electrician to do the work. Probably less than a day work for a journeyman.
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Based on normal practice It doesn't appear that you have air conditioning, only convential/gas heat. And the thermostat you bought is for air conditioning and heat pump systems. It likely will still work, you'll have to read through the book to see how to program it for convential heat in the installer set-up Red wire to (R) doesn't matter which one White wire to (W) Green wire to (G) Blue wire to nothing, the blue wire was your common wire which is required to make the old thermstat work off power from the unit, the new thermostat runs on batteries and doesn't have the option to run off power from the unit. Note: turn the power off to the unit, touching red and blue together will short out the transformer
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The neutral returns unused electricity back to the source where as the ground provides a pathway for an electrical short to return back to the panel and then to an earth ground.
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You are correct. Generally these days your typical router will have one input port (to the Internet) and four output ports, one or more of which can be connected to other computers -- while also having wireless capability. Wiring directly to the router is useful for desktops, servers, and other hardware that may not have wireless capability, while also eliminating any interference that could be associated with wireless routing, such as radio interference or downtime.
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disconnect the outlet in your ceiling and expose the wiring and hardwire the new light this way, using the supplied wire nuts etc... if its an older home you may have trouble matching the new wiring scheme (black wire, white wire, copper wire) to what is existing in your ceiling... turn the juice off before you try (at the switch that controls the light and throw the breaker or pull the fuse just to be safe) thats always the way it works... attach the ground wire to a screw that holds up the new light (if its not grounded all the way through the circuit it wont matter anyway) if you have an electricity tester try and determine which wire is hot and connect the black wire to that one, white wire to the other one.. maybe you can tell by the way the outlet was wired which one was carrying the load if you look closely at where the connections were made, often times those hot screw terminals will be differnt color than the neutral (gold vs silver?).. if all else fails i would say the blue marked one was marked for a reason, probably to show that it is hot.
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If the supply wires are solid and the fixture wires are stranded put the stranded wire slightly past the end of the solid, say 1/16. Then put a yellow wire nut on them. Tug on the stranded wire to be sure it caught. If the wires are both solid, try twisting the larger wire around the smaller one. It is tricky but if you let your lineman's pliers slip a little as you twist it should work. Cut back to about 1/2 to 5/8 and install the yellow wire nut. Time was wires were soldered together, but properly installed wire nuts are just fine.
Q:when wiring car speakers.. does the thickness of the wires matter?
This Site Might Help You. RE: when wiring car speakers.. does the thickness of the wires matter? do speakers function better with thick or thin wires?

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