Large Size Seamless Elbow A234 WPB

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 1000 pc/month

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Specifications

The most professional flange manufacturer.We offer steel pipes and pipe fittings with high quality and low price.

Product Description

Specifications

carbon steel A234 WPB 90deg LR elbow, tee, reducer and cap
size : 1/2"-48"
w.t.: sch10-sch160, SGP , XS, XXS, DIN ,STD

name	ASTM A234 WPB carbon steel ELBOW , tee , reucer, and cap
Size	1/2" - 48"
Angle	45° 90 ° 180° ,
Wall thickness	Sch5-Sch160 XXS,STD,XS, SGP
Standard	ASME B16.9, GOST 17375-2001, DIN2605 and JIS B2311, EN10253-1 etc. we can also produce according to drawing and standards provided by customers.
Material	Carbon steel pipe fittings , alloy steel and stainless steel.
Packaging	Wooden Cases, wooden pallet , or carton box , or nylog bag and then in wooden cases
Surface Treatment	Paintting black color , and Shot blasted,anti-rust oil ,
Delivery Time	20-30 days, after received advance payment.
Quality	First grade
Others	1.Special design available according to your drawing. 2.anti-corrosion and high-temperature resistant with black painting 3. All the production process are made under the ISO9001:2000 strictly. 4. A conformity rate of ex-factory inspection of products. 5. we have export right , and we can quote FOB , CNF CIF price

Large Size Seamless Elbow A234 WPB

Packaging & Shipping

Large Size Seamless Elbow A234 WPB

Q:Need to heat the house and looking for a more responsible alternative. Current stove burns wood and coal. If I replace it with oil burning stove, will that pollute less? What about toxic fumes in the house? Or should I just go with burning wood in the 50-year old wood/coal stove?: Gronkowski. Reason 1: Oakland gives up more points to TE than Denver Reason 2: Gronkowski has been hot and he is 1 in points for TE which equals Stud. Never sit your studs.

Q:How to use the clamp type pipe joint?: The utility model does not have a self sealing type, and the self sealing joint can use the one-way valve to make the ends of the connecting pipe not expose the gas or the liquid, and the sealing effect is good.

Q:What is swagelock fitting?: 25 bar is a lot of water pressure. What is the actual operating pressure? For 25 bar, I would make the jump to 300 flanges. What code are you building to. I would suggest ASME/ANSI B31 for petrochemcial work. That standard contains a chart to tell exactly what the ratings are for each situation.

Q:PE pipe joint and PPR joint can be with each other: So these two materials can not only connect through the interconnected adapter, such as thread or flange.I hope I can help my friends,

Q:How do you suppose a nearby (but not direct) lightning strike could damage the tuner in your TV, which was turned on? (i.e. Why is it a good idea to unplug TVs and computers when an electrical storm is very close?): There's no telling what grounding rod is there, but if it's not connected to your house wiring, you could try. If it is, obviously don't bother.

Q:I was watching real videos and the last 3 have all been different alarm fires. What decides how many alarms it is?: I know what your seeking but recently here in NZ its been banned because of the fittings blowing off the crimping isn't sufficient, co's over time it corrodes away, allowing the pipe to blow off! It's a bugger if it's in an interior wall. Here there's another brand and it has a stainless steel bush pushed up inside each connection before the fitting is pushed on. These fittings are able to be undone if needed they come in all sorts of sized configurations (it used to be called Acorn fittings but it could have since changed) The only thing is I wouldn't expect this plastic piping to carry hot water. The blockage might be something simple you will just have to try and eliminate possible causes by checking everything. The problem could quite easily be the pressure reducing valve as they often gum up with crap besides they have a tiny jet within them that blocks if the diapham is perished then you will get very little flow if anything!! I'd be seeking out the fault first, co's you might go replace all the piping using all the existing fittings only to find the problem is still there you have achieved nothing!! Other than spent lots of money time for nothing!! It's better cheaper to remedy the problem first if you find the pipework needs replacing then by all means do it - Do it once do it well is my work ethic's Cheers!!

Q:how many people died in the great fire of london?: to get the proper fit you need to go to the brand dealer - or - remove the parts to be replaced and go to the auto supply store and get some help the Auto supply either does or does not have matching parts buying off a website is like t

Q:These are the laser safety goggles I'm thinking of wearing: Tools: Basin wrench, spanners, small to medium pipe wrenches, strap wrench, plumber's putty, teflon tape, hacksaw, tape measure. Supplies: Pipe nipples, new shutoff valves, hookup pipes, faucet, new drain pipes. You can measure everything up, take a digital picture if you like and go down to the home center. They will fix you up with what you need and give you advice as to how to actually do it.

Q:crappy will i get in trouble by the fire fighters if i paint it the same color . thankx: Greetings from the northern plains, with not the least bit of amusement over your suffering what we've always dealt with. First, to get it out of the way, do not call this guy back again, as he is ripping you off. I believe it's called profiteering, like the bastards that would spike the price of plywood to $100 a sheet before, or after, a tornado or hurricane. (I would perhaps make this a hobby to go after the guy, his reputation, and his business, as he is one low-life dude, and I can be nasty.) Nuff. Drain cleaning chemicals are intended to dissolve, or at least loosen, clogs such as grease, hair, soap, etc., but not ice. Yes, ice can form in drain lines, especially if not nicely sloped (where there's a sag in a straight run), or at a fitting. Once started, it can accumulate - that's how icicles are formed, a little a time. If the drain pipe leaving the kitchen (likely 1 1/2 pipe) is enclosed above the garage, I'd open up the garage ceiling (if finished), or perhaps the chase it's boxed in with, and warm the pipe with hot air, to get things going. Once done with that, get some insulation under the pipe (in effect getting the pipe into the envelope of the house, not below it). I agree that the yellowish leak may well be the drain cleaner, but the leak also betrays - a leak. Any and all fittings should be inspected. Worst case is actually a cracked drain pipe from the ice, and steel drain pipe (very not likely). PVC or ABS plastic drain pipe is quick and economical to cut out and repair, so buck up. (Personally, I would also exit with an access panel for the next time, not just sealing up with a drywall repair.) In the coldest climates, some might use pipe heating tape as a preventative measure, but I suspect you aren't in one, just caught in this nasty weather. The tape, however is not a good solution to an already-frozen line - it's too slow.

Q:Have you ever had a day where you view everyone else as dogs and you are the fire hydrant?: Head Loss (pressure loss due to elevation change) is going to be a bit of 6 psi. (0.433 psi per foot). That's a lot to expect to overcome. Unless you have a really fast moving river (you will be converting velocity pressure to overcome the head loss and the friction in the pipe, fittings, filter, etc.), this sounds like a no-go project. I could be wrong, it's just a gut feeling.

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