JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

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Applications

JKL607 series reactive automatic power compensation controller is designed according to the latest National standards of JB/T9663-1999,which is to be used together with low voltage electrostatic capacitance screen of various specifications,to provide real-time supervision on the power factor and reactive current of the power network,and give automatic throw-cut capacitor compensation to the power network.
JKL607A/607B/607C adopts the high quality single chip computer of US Amy Company,wich provides power cut-off memory function.It also has other obvious features such as digitally display the power factor and voltage of power network,strong function,precise compensation,easy debug and so on.
JKL607FA/JKL607FS adopts COMS digital integrated circuit and also use pointer meter to display the COSφ value.With manual operation function,you can use the manual operation button on the machine to switch on/off the compensation capacitor,while keeping the outpout state unchanged.
JKLD607C adopts dynamic reactive power compensation controller designed by intel 16 digit single chip comuter,which outputs DC9-12V signal,controls dynamic reactive power compensation control switch(Type:JKLD607KC)or controls bi-dimensional thyristor of zero passage trigger and plate trigger to quickly switch the capacitor.(Zero passage disturbance free switch)

Structure Characteristics

1. No throw-cut vibration,precise control within the range of full loads.
2. The lock function in super low load.
3. Over voltage protection function.
4. Use the circular operation mode of the earlier throw off,the earlie cut off.
5. It has preset functions of voltage,time delay and power factor,and the preset parameters maintain even then the power is cut off .

Code and Its Meanings

Operation Conditions

1. Altitude:≤2000m
2. Ambient temperature:-15℃+～50℃.
3. Relative humidity:≤90% at 20℃,≤50% at 40℃,
4. Ambient environment:no flammable,explosive,electric conducting dust,or corrosive gas.

Main Technical Parameters

1. Rated Voltage:jkl607A/B/C 380V JKL607FA/FS 220V
2. Sample Airflow:≤5A
3. Throw-in threshold:0.85-0.98
4. Over voltage protection:400-440V
5. Time delay:1-90s
6. Controlled Circuits:4,6,8,10,12
7. Dielectric strength:industrial frequency 3000V

Installation Size

The installation of JKL607 series adopts inserted case,with installation hole on the side.Put the hook of the fastening accessory into the hole,tighten the screw of the accessory and the controller is fixed on the scree.
JKL607A overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKL607B overall size:147×110×127mm Holing size:140×102mm(width×height)
JKL607C overall size:120×120×80mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FA overall size:120×110×127mm Holing size:162×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FS overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKLD607C overall size:120×120×127mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)

Q:I have a 94 town car. The check air suspension light came on. The compressor sounds fine but I want to check the fuse which this might also be the problem. I kno its under the hood in the fuse box, but which one is it? Anyone? Thanks: As was said, if the compressor is running, the 30 amp fuse is fine. There are a number of components that can make this light go on, does your compressor run all of the time? If so it could be an air leak, on my '95 town car the ride height adjuster needs to be replaced, it signals to the compressor to keep running even though the car is at a proper level. This blows the 30amp fuse. Until I can get a new rha, I am just keeping the switch in the trunk off, if it looks a little low I turn it on until the rear end is up, this happens mostly when the temps. drop and the air molecules contract. To nail down your problem take it to a dealership, they can run a diagnostic test on it.

Q:How do I know when its time to change my transmission fluid on my 2009 elantra?: For a healthy auto transmission system, change the ATF fluid including the strainer assembly every 40,000 km. This will preclude wear and tear of the internal subassemblies.

Q:All the relays are replaced and all the fuses have been tested. The boo switch has also been replaced.where the hell do I begin?: Your brake lights not working is the reason it won't come out of park. Some of the newer vehicles have more than one fuse box. Mine has one under the back seat and one under the hood. The owners manual is the first place to start. Make sure ALL the fuses are good. You'll need a test light, check for power at your brake light switch, located on the brake pedal under the dash. Then check to see if you have power at the other end of the switch when the pedal is depressed. A lot of times, it is this switch that goes bad or just gets knocked around. If you have power on both sides of this switch, then you move on to the bitsy solenoid. I'd need more information to tell you where it is on your van, but try checking the brake light switch first. Good luck!

Q:I recently lost my internal lights, clock and annoying whine that tells me I left the lights on. I worked out where the fuse was after like, an hour of searching the internet forums and found the fuse that deals with the internal lights and clock. Low and behold, it was blown, replaced it with the spare 7.5 rated fuse, checked it, lights came on and clock, and then after about a minute, the fuse blew again. Any ideas what the prob could be? Plus, I couldnt find the fuse for the annoying whine that lets me know the lights are on. Neither could I find any fuse box layouts on the internet, anyone able to help me out?: First you need to find out if the short is in the wiring for this fuse or wiring from this fuse and another. To do this remove half the fuses prior to replacing the blown fuse. If it still blows then all the fuses are eliminated. Now remove the other half and if it still blows then the problem is within the wiring for just that one fuse. Next unplug the items connected to that fuse and then replace the fuse. If it still blows you have a wiring problem. Either seek help or run new wires. If when you unplug a component connect to the wires for this fuse and the fuse does not blow most likely that part is your problem.I an sure this well help you because i try it before and it work it won't harm your car and good luck

Q:1988 Ford F-250 4x4 460, multi port fuel injection. dual gas tanks. Its started with intermittent problem, truck would just die, but start back up after a while, sometimes right away, others almost drain the battery to start it. in finally gave out for good, checked presser at rails nothing, ran alternate power to pump for a second and fuel presser jumped right up to 6lbs. but only ran it for a second. i don't do so well reading wiring diagramms: There should be a relay for the fuel pump. I think your fuel pump is out though. You should have more fuel pressure than that.

Q:I have an ICS M4A1 (Carbine: ICS-41 Retractable). Every time I put a 30 amp flat blade fuse in, once I connect the battery the fuse immediately blows. I think there might be a shortage in the wiring somewhere. Does anyone have a quick fix for me? Thank you SO much.: Yes, a blown fuse is always caused by a short (uhnot shortage, but short;-) A quick fix is to throw it away and get a new one, another is take it in to a repair shop, but there is no inexpensive 'quick fix' for a short, usually ever in anything. Electrical shorts or short circuits occur because there is a very low or no resistance connection between the terminals of the power source, i.e. the battery, adapter terminals, wires from the wall. This can be caused by: Two uninsulated conductors touching. A burned out component that failed by shorting. Foreign object that is conductive (pin, paperclip, bread sack tie, screw, etc.) contacting two conductors. Solder bridge on a PC (Printed Circuit) board. Internal short in a multi-cell battery or battery pack. Exposure of a PC board to non-distilled water or other liquids, even after the board is dried. Wire with metal terminal end coming loose and touching another wire or a PC board trace. And I'm sure that I've not listed all the potential causes for a short. (Oh, yeah, forgot PBJ(peanut butter jelly sandwich) in a VCR. Sorry, but there isn't a quick fix. Using a larger fuse may be tempting, but it would only worsen the problem should it NOT blow. Fuses blow to protect the equipment they are used in from permanent damage from shorts. Fuses that DON'T blow DONT protect equipment from shorts. They can, in some cases, do a great job of starting a camp fire;-) Best advice, take it to a repair shop and get it fixed.

Q:After putting in a new stereo, my instrument panel lights will not come on. All the maintenance lights will turn on upon starting the car, but once started, I cannot see the speedometer or any of that stuff. The lights for the heat/AC knobs won't illuminate either. The 12volt does light up, as does the stock clock and the new stereo. I am not sure if there is a fuse for this, I looked through the manual and found nothing to indicate that there would be. I have checked the dimmer dial to make sure it's all the way on. Nothing was unplugged other than the stereo components so I'm not sure what happened. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.: the maintenance required gentle is reset at each provider and is derived on whilst the elapsed mileage from the final provider is approximately 7500 miles. At ninety,000 you will possibly desire to have had the substantial provider' witht the finished 'song-up featuring the spark plugs, valve adjustment, filters and fluid ameliorations. At ninety seven,500 the required provider is a tire rotation and oil and clear out exchange plus the standard maintenance inspections of the brakes, suspension, lights platforms and fluid tiers. you may reset the maintenance gentle by way of pushing the top of your ignition key into the slot by way of the eco-friendly-yellow-purple indicator. pushing the biggest in will turn the indicator back to eco-friendly and reset it for 7500 miles from whilst the provider is carried out. desire that facilitates

Q:2003 dodge grand caravan the parking lights wont come on and i can find the fuse! i looked at the fuse box in the engine compartment and all the fuses look good! is there another box ? please help. ps my headlights work and so are the dash lights: when you open the door look on the end of the dash on that van, there's a panel that you remove,there you,ll find the main fuse box for the the inside components and the one for the park lights,good luck.

Q:i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.: time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.

Q:I was trying to replace my ceiling light bulb in my 97 honda accord and yes i was stupid and didn't disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. And yes i blew out one of the fuses. I replaced the fuse and then noticed that my passenger door the one right behind the driver that when i open it the ceiling light wont come on but all the rest of the doors when i open it the ceiling light would come on. I thought it was the door jam switch so i replaced it and it still won't come on. I also checked every single fuse and all of them are still good. So i'm guessing that its the wiring so now i am wondering if its my wreckless short circuit that may have caused the wiring damage. Or short circuit does not cause wire damage. By the way my car only has one interior light which is that ceiling light. Thanks in advance for any answers!: The short did not hurt your wiring or cause your present problem. That's what fuses are for, to protect your wiring and other Components. You might try double checking all of your connections, but check at that new switch first. if you need to replace that wire, find out where the wires next connection is and try running a temporary wire first, if it works then you can hide the new wire! This could be several hours work though, chasing that wire through the body. Hope this helps, good luck

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