• JDM15A Preset Digital Display Counter System 1
JDM15A Preset Digital Display Counter

JDM15A Preset Digital Display Counter

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Model & explanation
Main technological data

1.Working voltage:AC 220V 110V 24V 50Hz DC24V,permit voltage fluctuating range(85%-110%)U.
2.Counting range:1-99999 times.
3.Input mode of counting signal:
(1)Contact signal input counting
(2)Electric level input counting (5-30V)
(3)Sensor signal input counting.
4.Counting speed:
(1)Low frequency counting:30 times/sec counter pulse≥15ms
(2)High frequency counting:500 times/sec counter pulselmssignal space rate 1:1.
5.Power out memory:holding mode terminal11.10 short connection.10 years memory holding:non-holding mode. 11.10 without short connection.
6.Counting mode:
(1)General counting ;additive counting
(2)Reversible counting;additive or backword counting.
7.Restoration mode:
(1)External terminal reset
(2)Press-button restoration.

Wiring diagram
Outline dimension & installation size diagram


Q:I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?
Most likely, you still need to replace the rear lights fuse. Most domestic and imports were built to show no light on the dash board in order to indicate that rear lights are not on working order. For the signal light, you must replace the dimmer. The dimmer is a cylinder shaped component (about 1.5 inches diameter) typically located on the same fuse block. Just pull it out and replace it with a new one. Good luck!
Q:I also here a thumping noise on the passenger side dash board when I turn the vehicle off what should I do
It sounds like the ac compressor clutch is bad. How to troubleshoot: Unplug the A/C compressor clutch wire and replace fuse and turn on A/C. If it does not blow, it is not anything in the wiring to the compressor. If it blows without the compressor plugged in you are going to have to check wiring and components from the compressor back.
Q:I have already checked the fuse and it is fine. If I bought some freon would that maybe get my air back on? If not, any ideas on what else could be be the problem?
I would start with electrical components, beginning with fuses and relays (remove and inspect). I would then look at the low pressure switch tied into the A/C line (jump terminals in cable harness plug while A/C is on to see if compressor kicks in). If you know lots of refrigerant is present and jumping that plug makes the compressor turn, get a new switch. If the coolant has leaked out, don't let the compressor run on empty for more than a few seconds. If the compressor never comes on after all this, try jumping 12V to it directly to see it a bad clutch coil (still won't come on) or bad wiring or control circuit. The next step is to pull a hard vacuum on the system: -29.5 Hg is what you want, and see if the vacuum is stable with the pump off and valve shut. If the vacuum leaks out find out why and get it fixed before buying R134a. If you think it might be a very slow leak you could now take a gamble and get it charged and add leak dye. This can tell you how slow the leak is and where, in the meantime you might have some A/C for a little while. EDIT: The blower motor in the dash might just be broken, which isn't affected by the level of freon in the sealed system. Have this blower problem resolved before digging into the A/C system itself, because it might be just fine.
Q:How to calculate the value of a FUSE which is to be employed in a circuit by wire's resistance and load resistancei read somewhere that 8g of wire needs 50 amp fuse and 14g needs 10 amp,so my question here in second part is how does we relate wieght of wire to the amps of fusekindly proceed for a answerthnx
weight of a wire has nothing to do with the fuse size. After all, the same weight could describe a very long thin wire that could only handle a low current, or a short thick wire that could handle a lot more current. You can look up the wire's current capability in wire tables. Or consult your local wire codes, for house wiring. For example, AWG 14 wire should be fused for 15 amps, AWG 12 for 20 amps. If the fuse is to protect the wire, size it via the wire tables. But often the fuse is to protect electronic components, and it that case, other rules apply. .
Q:I unplugged an air freshner from my lighter. Immediatly after I noticed my lighter, dome light, power antenna, rear defrost, key in ignition chime and the lights at the bottom of the doors didn't work anymore. I switched all fuses in fuse box with new ones and the same components still didn't work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Are you sure that you checked ALL your fuses? Sometimes there are fuse blocks under the hood also. I'm just not familiar with your car specificly but it sure sounds like a fuse problem and I would start by ruling out that you DID in fact check all the fuses. Check the owners manual to see if there are some in another location that maybe you missed.
Q:As stated, I'm going to add an extra CL in my fuse box for an accessory. Would it hurt anything to just add it to the lower gold bolt that already has a ground attached? I'd consider the empty one but I can't get my hand behind it and don't want to not be able to tighten in back up. Thanks for any advice, sorry for the novice question, I'm fairly new to working in my car.
Be careful, a cigarette lighter is a very high amperage draw device. The single existing fuse is only designed for one lighter, so you should consider running a dedicated line from the battery, fuse protected, to your new lighter. However, if you only plan on using the lighter socket for small current draw purposes, like a cell phone charger, then you could be okay tapping into an existing line. As for ground, any existing ground should be okay, as well as adding a new ground to a metal frame or body component.
Q:I have checked every single fuse under the hood and under the steering wheel. Still no radio, clock, or dome lights.
Double check the fuses tor the dome light and cigar lighter, its easy to miss a bad fuse If you have a test light or DVOM (multi meter) use it to check both sides of the fuse for power, obviously an open in the fuse is going to cause one side of it to have power and not the other. You will need these tool to verify the fuse is getting power, check the condition of the fuse, and trace the power to the individual components on that circuit. For backyard mechanics, Harbor Freight has these tool for the $5-10 range that work great for occasional use. Good luck man! If you need any further help with open / short diagnosis just let me know.
Q:I was recently mudding and was stuck for quite a bit of time in mud up to my foot brake. When I went in my electric start odometer ect all worked. It even worked for a while in the mud then suddenly quit. I pulled it out and it will pull start and run fine but the 4x4 and all electrical components seems dead. I've checked the battery and it's good. I'm assuming it's a fuse or short ? But idk where to start. Thanks for all your help. Quick recap runs fine pull starts first pull but absolutely nothing electrical is working 4x4 selector lights starter nothing.
Push up on the switch on the left handle bar. It is also the kill switch if you move it left or right. When it is in the center position it will push up as well to start the engine.
Q:I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring. When I first bought it, six months ago I replaced the fuse that powers the radio, trunk button, unlock/lock button, and rear view mirror light. I replaced it every two months but lately Ive had to replace it every other day! I have no clue whats going on or what I should do. Please help!
is this an OEM radio or an after market? do you have an Amp on the same circuit? Look at the power requirements for the raido if this is an after market, it may take more juice than what the fuse can deliver. *************************** DO NOT replace the fuse with a larger amp fuse. your car can catch fire because you just over loaded the circuit **************************
Q:I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?
You have to remember that you're going to be plugging the other stuff into the surge protector too. I'd go with the 15A.

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