Hot Selling Glazed Porcelain Tiles

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specifictions

  1. various sizes are available;

  2. More than 100 design andcolors;

  3. Both waterproof and nonwaterproof available;

  4. Strict control on colortolerance;

  5. Perfect effect on flatness andglazed surface;

  6. Ink-Jet technology applicationon the tiles

  7. Stable production andsupplying;

  8. Competitive price and paymentterm

  9. Stable production andsupplying;

  10. Suitable for economic endusing;


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Q:Which is generally cheaper? Wood or tile floors?
Usually tile, but it depends on the type of tile. A high grade, through body porcelain tile with rectified edges will cost a LOT more than say a low grade ceramic 12 x 12. You can find a great porcelain tile at like Home Depot in an 18x18 size for pretty inexpensive. Just don't have them install because they'll charge you double what any handyman would. Wood can be high or low grade as well. Laminate flooring has come a long way and is much more durable than wood, as long as you find one that looks good. They actually have a better PSI (pounds per square inch, which tells you the weight it can withstand) than wood and they don't scratch near as easy. There are some higher grade (and very expensive) woods out there that are pretty durable (don't scratch easily). If you buy wood flooring, go for Anderson, they have a great reputation and terrific construction technology. Oak is the cheapest wood, then maple, then anything else. I love the look of light maple or dark oak.
Q:Replacing a ceramic tile floor?
Best to rip it out and start new. And start with a new sub floor made for and the proper thickness for tile.. NEVER, EVER use a thin 1/4 luan or ply wood.. This is totally inadequate for tile and goes against all tile hand book guides such as the ATC and TCA guide book.Minimum substrate thickness for tile is 1 1/4 not the 1 as suggested.Thus you must use 1/2 board or backer board ( properly installed) to meet minimum standards for stability for tile.There are other methods to install but this is very common way. Going over the old with new tile is a possible option but tile setter need to know what their doing. Thus raising floor only thickness of the tile and thin set. I d never go over it raising it that much. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:Cleaning tiles?
Kaboom grout cleaner. Not tub and tile. There is to different ones. They both are very good. If you can find the Kaboom grout cleaner It will do all of it. Other wise use hot water and Just a cap full of the tub and tile cleaner from kaboom ,
Q:how do i lay tile?
If its in a no moisture area . May be . But unless its Trazo or Granite square cut on . And I only do that on counter tops. If you don't seal seal with grout water can get in cracks and cause problems with tile adhesion and sub floor failure. I'd use the thin grout lines.
Q:Question on kitchen tiling?
You are exactly right just remove the old moldings and you will have to make sure you fill any cracks for water to get in but you just install the tile instead of new molding.
Q:can tile be glued to formica?
I have done it and it was over 7 years ago and no problems at all. I even stand on the counter sometimes. First you will need to sand the formica with a coarse sandpaper followed by 2 coats of oil-based Kilz-It. When that it dry you are ready to thinset and lay your tiles.
Q:How do I use tile spacers?
I tile every day of my life, and usually hang out in DIY. Tile spacers come in two sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. For a counter top I suggest 1/8. You already know they look like (+) signs, and many have rounded tips. They are also sold in what looks like a round CAP with the plus sign under that allows for corner spacing and alignment. I do not use corners specifically, in laying the spacer flat, primarily through experience, but many suggest that method. You would set a piece of tile, then another in close proximety, using the spacers to align and keep the tiles at an exatc distance from each other. The spacer also makes a great scoop for wiping out excess mortar or mastic that squeezes up into the grout lines. I suggest 1/8 for countertops because of the purpose of the top and having the least amount of absorbent material, against the greater flat/flush surface that a counter top should be. Without knowing at all, your tile, or design, I also prefer a tile style that has bullnose sold in the same style allowing a back splash, and counter top edge/facing. I can't recall the name of REVERSE bullnose, but it would be used where the countertop, butts/meets the back splash. You may get suggestions that ramble, as I am, about sealing the grout, and you should be using a poly blend mortar and grout anyway. I'm not strictly opposed to sealers, but they do become a regular, life long process, and I am opposed to any surface finishes that come in contact with food. Obviously cutting boards work. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q:Making an existing tile floor non-skid?
If okorder.com/... and cut in to appropriate shapes for the kitchen such as pots, pans, rolling pins etc. This would solve the issue and give the kitchen floor a unique look. Hope that helps!
Q:why is my bathroom tile hot?
you proll have in floor heating. its pipes running throo your floor with hot water.
Q:Tile throughout the house?
We have Pergo flooring and it doesn't show dog scratches. I think tile flooring throughout an entire house is cold and echoey! But if you go with the tile, you could always get rugs.

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