Hot Selling Glazed Porcelain Tiles

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specifictions

  1. various sizes are available;

  2. More than 100 design andcolors;

  3. Both waterproof and nonwaterproof available;

  4. Strict control on colortolerance;

  5. Perfect effect on flatness andglazed surface;

  6. Ink-Jet technology applicationon the tiles

  7. Stable production andsupplying;

  8. Competitive price and paymentterm

  9. Stable production andsupplying;

  10. Suitable for economic endusing;


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Q:Tile back splash......?
If they are tiles, you would be better off replacing the entire splash
Q:How to cover where grout, laminate wood & tile flooring meet.?
Hopefully, your tile guy used a metal edge to end the tile. It makes for a cleaner look for a transition to another floor. If he did not, it just makes it a bit more difficult but not impossible... My suggestion would be to use silicone in between the two floor types. Grout will always crack there if there is no edge installed. The laminate floor moves and the tile doesn't (hopefully, or you have more problems to look forward to with cracking grout...) so the silicone allows the movement. It does depend on what colour the grout is but if it's white, almond, dark grey/black; you can use silicone right out of the tube in place of the last bit of grout or between the metal edge and the laminate. You will have to scrape out some of the grout from the transition area... about 1/16 deep where the tile ends and the laminate starts. If it is not a standard silicone colour, you have to mix clear silicone with some grout powder (on a sheet of cardboard or something... to make a silicone grout that matches...) and force it in the crack with your finger. Use masking tape to cover the laminate edge and the edge of the tile and leaving an open area between... take the tape off while the silicone is wet and rub any excess off each surface. Once it is cured, you can rub off the remaining excess silicone from the tile with your finger. Even if the colour is not exact, grout changes colour (darker) over time... even if you seal it... the seal wears out, most people don't keep up with re-sealing etc... Sounds time consuming yes, but works well and worth the effort as opposed to a threshold trim that will result in a high spot over the joint. Good luck!
Q:80 cm x 80 cm tiles a piece of weight is probably how many kilograms?
I sell tiles for 12 years, every day to calculate the fare to the driver, do not count me to him. We are all called
Q:Tiles broken, how do?
Only 3 months on the issue .... either is the tile problem, or else is the time to cut corners
Q:What is the best paint to paint over tile?
I'm guessing that you're looking for total coverage and not just for a small decorative purpose. In that case, it's really all about the prep work you put into it. Wash the tiles down with a TSP mixture, to remove any oil residue off the tile and wash that off afterwards, making sure it's dry. Then apply a primer to the tiles. I've personally found the Glidden Gripper primer to work best at covering ceramic/porcelain. Give that about 24 hours to set once you apply it. You can then cover it with your choice of paint and sheen. I would highly recommend a glossy paint though so it stands up to water; a satin or semi-gloss will work best. Using a foam roller is also a good idea, as this will give it the smoothest finish possible. I would however only recommend this for -wall- applications. It's not meant to be done on the floor and in that case you are better off with a skim coat of concrete and starting with a different type of floor. Painting it won't hold up over time, unless it's an epoxy type paint, but those are more formulated for masonry. Hope this helps!~
Q:Tile Paint?
if you painted right over ceramic tile it should come off with a razor blade scraper -- if the paint is in the grout you may never get it off there-- not sure what type of paint you used -- some oil paints can be removed with laquer thinner or paint thinner ---
Q:What is the best tiles?
Buddy, you said too general, and here simply say, interior decoration tiles must use all-ceramic tiles, tiles first glass polished tiles (anti-skid, wear, anti-penetration, easy to clean, etc.) (The color of the new, three-dimensional sense of strong, followed by wear) the most sub-microcrystalline stone (expensive, not wear-resistant, non-scratch (The price is high, durable, atmospheric) glazed tiles (the color is more, the price is right, with the most) antique all-ceramic cut on the wall (unique style, durable and durable )
Q:When and how to tile under the refrigerator?
Well, please take my advice as I used to work at a popular Australian tile franchise. Number one - make sure the porcelain you are laying is pre-sealed, as porcelain is a natural stone and is 'porous', so harsh staining can will occur if they are not sealed. If they are just 'Glazed Porcelain' tiles, they don't need to be 'sealed' as they are on a ceramic biscuit and just have a glazed protective coating, which are quite 'hardwearing'. In which they are 'ceramic'. Number two - YES!! you must fully take out all fixtures to lay in the bathroom and kitchen, tiles will almost usually be there many years more than a vanity or a fridge. If you replace your kitchen cabinetry, well all floor space should be tiled. Many people run into problems of the 'previous owner' not doing the job properly, and down the track they wan't the same tile.....well the life of a tile is around 4 years then they become extinct., even if you can get the same tile, it will not be of the same batch/shade. Trying to fix up half-hearted jobs isn't as easy as some people think!!! So please tile ALL floor area and order enough so you have a couple of spare boxes left over, for future repairs. Because you will never get that same tile batch/shade ever again!! You'll also make it easier for the next person who lives there. Also, if you find out that if it is true polished porcelain and there not pre-sealed, buy a 'reputable' tile sealer and seal them before laying. As when you grout the tile (if there not sealed) you will create a grout haze around all your joints and will be a nightmare to remove and your lovely porcelain won't look so 'lovely'!! HAVE FUN......
Q:How about a simple tiles? Good quality
"listen". To one hand the thumb, index finger and middle finger folder tile corner, easy to hang, the other hand index finger tapping the lower part of the tile, such as the sound clear, sweet for the top grade, such as the sound boring, astringent turbidity for the defective. "cut". Cut out the tile cut (usually to the store to have broken pieces of observation), see the break at the Department. Broken at the fine, hard and brittle, consistent color for the top grade.
Q:How do i fix my tile?
Without knowing what kind of tile you're talking about, it's hard to give an accurate answer. Because your tile was blemished by the acetone, I assume it is a matte finish tile, which will absorb moisture. You will probably have to replace the tile. First, go to a tile or flooring store, explain what you did and what happened and see what they recommend. As for fixing the tile, if you haven't removed old grout, fractured and removed a tile, cleaned out old thinset, laid new thinset, the tile, and grouted, I suggest you leave this to a professional.

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