Hot-Rolled&Cold Rolled Stainless Steel Coil (304, 304L, 316, 316L, 321, 310S, 309S)

Hot-Rolled&Cold Rolled Stainless Steel Coil (304, 304L, 316, 316L, 321, 310S, 309S)

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 25 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 50000 m.t./month

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Product Description

Stainless Steel Coil /Roll

1. Item: Stainless steel coil, Stainless Steel Roll

2. Material :201, 202, 304, 304L, 316, 316L, 309S, 310S, 317L, 321, 347, 347H , 409, 409L, 410, 420, 430, etc

3. Surface:2B,BA,HL,4K,6K,8K,NO.1,NO.2,NO.3,NO.4,NO.5 Black/Polished/Bright or as request

4. Standard: AISI, ASTM, EN, JIS, DIN, GB

5.Thickness: 0.3-3mm(cold rolled); 1.5-12mm(hot rolled)
Width: 1000mm,1219mm,1500mm or as request(cold rolled); 1000mm,1219mm,1500mm,1800mm,2000mm or as request(hot rolled)

6.Tolerance:thickness tolerance: +/-0.02mm,width tolerance: +/-10mm(cold-rolled);
thickness tolerance: +/-0.1mm,width tolerance: +/-10mm(hot-tolerance)

7. Shipment: Within 10-20 working days after receipt of the down payment or Irrevocable L/C sight.

8. Certificate: ISO, and third part inspection

9. Application: (1) Construction, decoration (2) petroleum, chemical industry (3) electrical appliances, automotive, aerospace (4) house ware, kitchen appliances, cutlery, foodstuff (5) surgical instrument

10. Package: Bundles, seaworthy wooden pallets or wooden cases. With or without edge protector, steel hoop and seals, in 20' or 40' container or as per customers' requirements.

If you are really interested in our products, you can feel free to contact us directly.
Hot-Rolled&Cold Rolled Stainless Steel Coil (304, 304L, 316, 316L, 321, 310S, 309S)

Surface Finish	Definition	Application
2B	Those finished, after cold rolling, by heat treatment, pickling or other equivalent treatment and lastly by cold rolling to given appropriate luster.	Medical equipment, Food industry, Construction material, Kitchen utensils.
BA	Those processed with bright heat treatment after cold rolling.	Kitchen utensils, Electric equipment, Building construction.
NO.3	Those finished by polishing with No.100 to No.120 abrasives specified in JIS R6001.	Kitchen utensils, Building construction.
NO.4	Those finished by polishing with No.150 to No.180 abrasives specified in JIS R6001.	Kitchen utensils, Building construction, Medical equipment.
HL	Those finished polishing so as to give continuous polishing streaks by using abrasive of suitable grain size.	Building Construction.
NO.1	The surface finished by heat treatment and pickling or processes corresponding there to after hot rolling.	Chemical tank, pipe.

Q:How are steel coils used in the production of metal furniture?: Steel coils are used in the production of metal furniture as the primary raw material for shaping and forming various components such as frames, legs, and supports. These coils are unrolled and cut into appropriate lengths, then undergo processes like bending, welding, and shaping to create the desired furniture pieces. The strength, durability, and malleability of steel make it an ideal material for constructing sturdy and long-lasting metal furniture.

Q:What is steel made of and what is its molecular weight? It's for a project in chemistry class so if you have a website link as well, that would be great!: Steel is an alloy consisting mostly of iron with a little Carbon thrown in. Steel is not a molecule, therefore, it does not have a molecular weight. Steel contains atoms of iron and carbon in a crystal lattice, along with various other alloying elements such as manganese, chromium, vanadium, and tungsten.

Q:You have two steel wool pads,one is cut up into little pieces, and the other is whole, and they are both submerged in water. 1.Which steel wool pad will rust quicker?2.How much faster will that pad rust? (estimate+explain the estimate)6.How could you make the steel wool pad rust faster?Please dont tell me to do my homework because I tried, but I bought the wrong type of steel wool: steel wool = iron fibers and rusts easily in air iron + Oxygen BUT the blue soap protects the iron at first. that needs to be cleaned off. damp surfaces speed the rusting but compeletly underwater there is not much O2, ther eis some temperature has an effect. the rusting depends ofn the area of the fibers which does NOT change when you cut th epad in smaller pieces. a good beginners experiment In old times thye thought the rusted material would lose weight becasuse it was not solid iron any more careful experiments showed it gained weight and lead to and understanding of chemistry

Q:Hi All,I was wanting to know,on the quality bikes such as Trek,Giant etc is the aluminum frames as strong as the steel frame bikes? I have heard conflicting reports on this,so thought I would ask here for more input.Thanks!: I wouldn't worry about strength so much. I have never heard of anyone breaking a aluminum frame. One difference to consider is stiffness. A aluminum frame bike seems to be more stiff of a ride than steel ( talking chrome molly), stiffness has good and bad points depending on how you plan to ride.

Q:I have a Victorinox Pioneer, and I recently filed a little metal off the blade for some jimping. Is the already stainless steel blade still stainless?: Yes, stainless steel is stainless all the way through. All metals are uniform in composition throughout the piece. However, many metal items are plated to give a different finish from the base metal or to provide protection. An example is galvanized ductwork. The duct is made of steel, but a coating of zinc is plated onto it for corrosion resistance. Likewise, some items are made of steel or brass, but are chrome plated to present a bright, shiny appearance.

Q:What are the different methods of slitting edge trimming for steel coils?: Steel coils can be slit using various methods, each with its own benefits and applications. 1. Rotary Shear Slitting: This approach utilizes rotary knives mounted on a rotating shaft to cut through the steel coil. The knives create a shearing action as they pass through the coil. Rotary shear slitting is versatile, accommodating various coil thicknesses and materials. It is commonly employed for high-volume production, offering clean and precise cuts. 2. Crush Cut Slitting: This method involves pressing the steel coil against a hardened anvil with a rotating knife. The coil is cut by crushing it against the anvil. Crush cut slitting is suitable for thinner gauge materials and those sensitive to shearing forces. It provides clean cuts but may have limitations in terms of coil thickness and width. 3. Razor Slitting: Razor slitting employs a razor blade mounted on a rotating shaft to slice through the steel coil. This method is commonly used for thin and delicate materials that require precise and burr-free edges. While it provides clean cuts, it may be limited in terms of coil thickness and width. 4. Shear Slitting: This approach utilizes a pair of opposing blades to shear through the steel coil. The blades move past each other, creating a scissor-like cutting action. Shear slitting is commonly used for heavier gauge materials, offering clean and precise cuts. It is suitable for high-speed production and can handle a wide range of coil thicknesses and materials. 5. Laser Slitting: Laser slitting employs a high-powered laser beam guided by computer-controlled optics to cut through the steel coil. It offers precise and clean cuts and is suitable for various coil thicknesses and materials, including high-strength steels. Laser slitting provides a high level of accuracy and can handle complex cutting patterns. Each method has its own advantages and considerations, depending on the specific requirements of the steel coil slitting operation. Factors such as coil thickness, material type, desired edge quality, and production volume will influence the choice of slitting method.

Q:I have heard that heating the steel and applying oil will help with corrosion, and will give that aged look. I would like to know finishes available without painting. thanks: No, I don't think the oil will do what you want. I have heated and quenched metal in oil several times (to harden it) and it did not give a finish to steel. I have heard of heating steel to a high temperature (red) and putting powdered sulfur on it, it will make a black finish. BUT, sulfur stinks and you would not do this indoors. And I don't know what the results would be like for indoor use. At the hardware store, you can find something like POR (paint on rust), a brand name of rust neutralizer. There are others. You spray it on (or paint) and it will turn rust into a glossy black material. Other than that, I think paint is your best option. Check out the new finishes they have now, if you haven't checked, they have come a long way. If you let them dry completely (in the sun) the spray can finishes are very durable. Good luck! Ooops, I forgot about gun finishes. Yes, some are blue, you might be thinking of that, but that is only if you put several coats on. One coat might do it. Plus, there are other colors, such as black (see the parkerizing link on the list). Here is a good company, they can be lots of help, too.

Q:Can i use steel shot in a remington 870 wingmaster full choke 30 inch barrel. the shotgun is in great shape and about 20 or 25 years old probably. thank you. the steel shot i have got is 12 gauge 2 3/4 in 1550 velocity 1 1/16 oz 2 shot winchester xpert high velocity steel shot: Because of environmental concerns steel, bismuth and tungsten is replacing lead shot, for bird hunting. The problem with steel shot is the hardness, which can cause damage to the bore and choke in older shotguns. Unlike lead there is no give to steel and it can damage the bore especially if the choke is on full. Tungsten is also very hard, but it is often alloyed with other metals making it softer causing less damage in older models shotguns. Bismuth falls in between tungsten and steel, being the softer of the two by far.

Q:I noticed a friend's appliances are not magnetic, and mine are. Both are stainless steel. Are there two types of stainless steel or something? Thanks: If the non magnetic one is has a brighter finish it may be that it is a ferritc stainless steel which depends only on high chromium content to keep it stainless,the duller one is likely to be the austenitic type which contains nickel as well as chromium and is usually non or only faintly magnetic and with a dull finish.Chromium rich stainless steels(ferritic and martensitic grades) are designed to be used for cutlery and strength application are always strongly magnetic (quite often permanent magnets).Stainless steels containing at least 18%chromium and 8+% of nickel are designed to be corrosion resistant and weldable,this type of steel(austenitic) is not ferromagnetic in the annealed state but the lower grades do become magnetic after cold work(hammering bending etc.The difference between magnetic grade or not rests in the crystal structure.In the austenitic types the structure is the same as that of gold and copper which is cubic close pack and,in steel,is a non magnetic form;but in low grades cold working can cause some breakdown of the austenite to the magnetic room temperature form of iron known as ferrite.Ferrite has the ordinary body centred body centred cubic form of iron which is magnetic.All of the stainless steels depend upon Chromium to form an anti-corrosion barrier at their surface;but this is only reliable in oxidising conditions(like the open air)They nearly all discolour and even rust if trapped in damp conditions where oxygen potential is low(as under wet plastic or underground ).

Q:Is Carbon Steel strong for swords?: Depends on the sword design. Some swords are high carbon, some a low carbon, some are made from a billet of alternating high and low carbon ('Damascus' steels). It all depends on what characteristics you want for your sword. Softer steels won't hold an edge as well but they offer great flexibility so your sword won't shatter when they make impact with armor or shields. Harder steels hold better edges but they're prone to binding in wooden shields and then being broken as soon as a bending force is applied along the weak axis of the blade. Japanese Katanas have both hard and soft steels to allow the blade to bend yet still hold strong edges. If you're making the sword from raw materials on your own, look up some different recipes for crucible steel. It's probably the most fun and involved process.

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