Hot dipped Galvanized Steel Coil

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HOT DIP GALVANIZED STEEL COIL
Specification:0.5mm*1000mm*c
Steel Grade & Standard: ASTM A653
Zinc Coating Mass:Z180  Spangle:Zero Spangle
Surface Treatment: non-chromate, oiled  
Coil ID:508mm  Coil Weight:6-10MT
Package Type:EYE TO SIDE
Thickness Tolerance:+/-0.02mm  Width Tolerance:+/-5mm
Zinc Coating Tolerance:-/+10g/m2


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Q:Is there Non-Corrosive stainless steel?
Maybe okorder.com Hope this can help you.
Q:What are the characteristics of hot-rolled steel coils and cold rolled steel coils? What loading and unloading tools should be used? What items should be paid attention to?
Steel is usually stable in performance. One thing is that the environment should be dry, not rain, because the damp environment is easy to rust. As long as it's in a dry room, it's basically no problem.
Q:how do we steel a bitches boyfriend?
Maybe you can learn to spell. Perhaps he is attracted to intelligence. He may want a mother for his children that can read a Campbells soup can.
Q:Lyrics to steel driving man?
watch man of steel full movie online free adf.ly/dfxYD
Q:dose oxygen peroxide rust stainless steel?
Stainless does rust over time (EVERYTHING rusts it's called oxidation) Whenever something comes in contact with oxygen, the molecules will bond with the oxygen to form an oxide. Iron form iron oxide or rust which is reddish brown, apples turn brown after several minutes after it's been bitten. It all depends on the type of material used to manufacture the stainless. Stainless is made up of .2%-2% carbon, 11%%-28.5% chromium and iron. Some stainless is further advanced by adding other metals like nickel, molybdenum or niobium. Most stainless pocket knives are either normal steel coated with stainless or a cheaper form of stainless (it will have a high 300 number or very low 400 stamped on it). Other time, stainless will rust when a form of iron scratches the surface and contaminates the stainless, this is easily treatable if you get it quickly. Oxygen peroxide should not rust it, since the oxygen has already bonded with each other to form peroxide (2 oxygen molecules). It's the simplest form, but not the most stable (which means it could make your knife rust further). But I recommend steel wool or a scratch pad used to clean cook where (usually green or brown) to remove the rust.
Q:What is the level of dependability of 1055 carbon steel?
1055 Steel
Q:how to tell the difference between steel and nylon strings?
The g-string will look and feel thicker than usual, and the strings will look almost like copper.
Q:Site that tells the history of Stainless Steel dining Utensils?
The development of 18/10 stainless steel was the brainchild of Harry Brearley who, in 1913, was working on a project to prevent rifle barrels from corroding so much during use. His analysis of the rifle barrels involved having to dissolve them in acid but, by chance, he noticed that steel which had a high chromium content did not dissolve in the acid. He experimented with varying proportions of chromium and finally produced a stainless steel with 12.8% chromium. He moved to Thos Firth Sons in 1914 and commercial production of stainless steel cutlery began. Refinements were necessary because early versions of stainless steel knives were harder to produce and polish, and they would not cut as well as the existing knives.
Q:what coating can be used on steel so it wouldn't rust when exposed to sea water?
Well our boat hulls have two types or primer, Red Lead, or a yellow colored paint I think it was zinc-chromate. And then, numerous coats of the grey (Navy) paint. US Navy, ABE5, USS Enterprise
Q:How to temper steel? ?
Heat treating easy, HA! It is the most critical part of bladesmithing. Done wrong and all those hours of work go up in smoke (or a snap of the steel). You'll need a bucket of oil, preferably one that is deep enough to go in point first. If not you'll have to go in edge first, not recommended on a double edged blade, ok for single edge. You'll need to build a charcoal fire long enough for the blade. You will need to blow air under the fire to get it hot enough, the challenge is getting the heat even. You get the fire going and established, put the blade in turning it back and forth (if you keep turning it in the same direction when it heats up you could work a twist in it). When it starts turning red pull it out and touch it with a magnet, if the magnet sticks put it back. Keep heating and repeating until the magnet no longer sticks. Heat a little more, then quench rapidly point first. Don't let the blade lean to one side as warpage will occur. When it cools enough to touch, check with a file. If the doesn't file cut then you've properly hardened the steel and it's ready for temper. Now comes the really hard part. Grind the scale off carefully,preferably with a side grinder with a flap wheel. I've had hard wheel break freshly hardened blades. After cleaning you'll need to put it in an oven (preferred) or use a torch and carefully heat the blade. Watch the temper colors (oven temp 500-550F) or with the torch as the steel turns colors blue to purple for a double edged weapon. Any warpage that occurs needs to be worked out at temping temp.

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