• Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires System 1
  • Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires System 2
  • Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires System 3
Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
25 m.t.
Supply Capability:
2500000 m.t./month

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Item specifice

Material:
Stainless Steel Wire,Iron Wire,Copper Wire,Steel Wire,Black Wire Mesh,Brass Wire,Low-Carbon Iron Wire,Aluminum Wire,Galvanized Steel Wire,PVC Coated Steel Wire,Plastic Coated Iron Wire,Aluminum Alloy Wire,Phosphor Bronze Wire,Galvanized Iron Wire
Cross Sectional Shape:
Round,Rectangle,Oval,Triangle
Application:
Construction Wire Mesh,Protectiong Mesh,Fence Mesh,Decorative Mesh,Gabion Mesh,Window Curtain,Barbecue Wire Mesh,Cages
Type:
Steel Coll,Self-Locking,Galvanized,U Type Wire,Insulated,Flat Wire,Loop Tie Wire
Wild in Width:
2.1M,1.8M,1.6M,1.5M,1.1M
Surface Treatment:
Color Coated,PVC Coated,Black,Coated
Metal Wire Drawing:
Cold Drawing,Hot Drawing
Status:
Soft State,In Hard State,Hard State
Thickness:
Metal Fiber,Metal Microfilament,Metal Filament,Metal Thick Wire
Galvanized Technique:
Electro Galvanized,Hot Dipped Galvanized

1.Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires Description

Galvanized Iron Wire has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc. 

Galvanized Iron Wire mainly used in construction, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving. Galvanized iron wire according to manufacturing technique, it includes hot-dipped galvanized iron wire and electro galvanized iron wire. Mainly telecommunication equipment and materials, medical equipment and device, weaving of wire mesh, steel rope, and filtration mesh, high-pressure pipe, construction, arts and crafts.

2.Main Features of Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

• Use widely

• Corrosion- resistant

• Durable 

• Practical use

• Beauty Surface

• Versatile

 

3. Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires Images

Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

4.Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires Specification

 

Chemical composition

C

Mn

Si

S

P

Guarantee value

≤0.12

0.3~0.6

≤0.35

≤0.035

≤0.040

                                                      

Test Item  

Rm(MPa)

ReL(Mpa)

A(%)

KV2(J)

KV2(J)

Guarantee value

≥420

≥330

≥17

-(normal temperature)

-(0°C)

General result

460~540

≥340

18~26

50~80

≥47

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely 

 

How about your Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

One of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire meshis a large-scale professional UAE Market Electric Galvanised Wire BWG 20 0.7mm Hot Dipped Galvnised Wire  factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world. Different kinds of wires and mesh are available according to customer’s requirements. 

 

What is your Technical Information of Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires?

1).Material: super carbon steel

2).Processing by drawing, hot-dip zinc-plating

3).Standard wire gauge from 8# to 24#

4).Thick zinc-coating layer

5).Super in corrosion resistance

6).Firm coating layer

7).Custom size available

 Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

How long can we receive the product after payment?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served

Hot Dip Galvanized Wire Use Cheapest from Big 5 Fair CNBM Wires

 

Q:I currently have a ceiling fan wired to a dimmer wall switch that controls the fan and the light, not good I know. I would like to set up the dimmer switch where it controls the light only and then i can use the fan pull switch for the fan. but i am not sure how to wire this with my current wires. In the wall box where the dimmer switch is I have two sets of wires coming from two different locations. one set has a black, red, white, and green. the other location has black, white and copper. currently the green and copper are connected and capped, the two whites are connected together and capped, two blacks are and connected to the black wire coming from the dimmer and the red is connected to the other black wire from the dimmer. how would I wire the dimmer switch to only control the light and not the fan? I want to make sure i do this safely.any assistance is greatly appreciated.
enable me initiate out by making use of asserting that the cord's popping out of the ceiling bypass like this, Black cord is alway the warm cord the White cord is often the common floor cord the bare cord is the earth floor cord. if there's a purple cord popping out of the ceiling it is so which you would be able to turn the mild off at extra then one change . i'm uncertain what a hunter fan is ,yet what ever you do do no longer hook the black (warm) cord with the WHITE (floor) cord, in case you probably did try this ,you will could reset your breaker , it form of seems such as you may have 2 purple cord popping out of the ceiling , in case you do you may hook them to the Black / White cord, it is so which you would be able to paintings the mild from the two change.
Q:I'm cutting 18 gauge wire, so I can run valve wires to the timer in the garage. The plastic casing over the wire is pretty thick, so I had to squeeze hard. I accidentally cut into the color casing of the actual wire inside, so I want to start over. How can I cut this wire away, and start again?
Take a utility knife and cut a 3/4 slot at the end of the cable parallel with the conductors. Use two pliers, one to hold the outer sheath, and one to grip the conductors. Pull them 180 degrees away from each other. When you have the stripped length you want, cut off the outer sheath where the wires are not inside. Any cutting around the circumference of the sheath while the wires are enclosed, will lead to cutting the insulation on the wires. This is why many manufacturers install a nylon zip cord inbetween the wires. You can grab it with one pliers and pull it away from the cable while holding the cable with the other pliers, to cut the outer sheath.
Q:I'm looking to install a ceiling fan in a fixture that recently had just a light (no idea if it ever had a fan). When I removed the old light, I found that there were three white wires from the ceiling twisted together and connected to the white wire on the light fixture, one black wire from the ceiling connected to the black wire on the fixture, and three black and one white ceiling wires just capped together, not connected to the light fixture.Any idea what the last 4 wires are? I would think that I just need to leave them alone, however, I have to replace the box in the ceiling with one that is rated for a fan, which means I need to (temporarily) disconnect them. I have the breaker turned off that turned the light off, but can I be 100% sure that power to those other 4 wires if also off?
You don't have to know what they are, but other anwers are good esp with regard to safety. You can choose either to leave them alone or disconnect them and reconnect them inside your new ceiling box. If you want to disconnect them, be sure to mark all the cables first so you can't make a mistake when you reconnect them.
Q:i need to make a battery powered light bulb and i have copper wire at home...will it work?
You must use insulated wire.
Q:I am building an ice chest boombox and want to wire a toggle (on/off) switch to turn the amp on and off....the amp is wired directly to the battery....my question is that I am using 6 gauge wire....but can't find any female spade connectors that are 6 or even 4 gauge to hook to the terminals on the switch.....what is a simple way to do this....am I going to have to solder the wire straight to the terminals?
Why not wire the toggle switch into the remote + wire? The one that turns the amp on and off with the head unit. 7/5/2013**** Leave the power supply wire alone. The thick 4 gauge wire that runs from the battery directly to the amp, leave it alone, don't put a toggle switch inline on that wire. Instead there's a wire from your head unit (or ignition) that runs to your amp, it turns on the amp when the head unit turns on or your ignition key is in the on position. It's usually 16 or 14 gauge. That's the wire where the toggle switch belongs. Look at your amp, this wire I am speaking of is probably labeled remote+ or ign or something like that and it's usually located next to your power and ground connections on the amp.
Q:Lime Wire is a software that lets you download songs.
Yeah...(If you download right now we will send you a bunch of spyware and virus' for absolutley nothing.*) *Note Lime Wire is not responsable for any damage that my occur to your computer as a result of downloading MP3s from Lime Wire.
Q:I have a water valve that I need to connect but I don't know how to read this diagram. I'm unsure how to connect the wires to the cold and hot valve. I have four wires that need to be connected. A pair of white caps with one blue wire and one orange; and a pair of black caps with one blue wire and one yellow wire. Sorry if this sounds confusing but I have no idea how to explain it well. Thanks!
blue and yellow for cold valve one, blue and orange for cold valve 2, the hot valve would be blue and brown.
Q:electroluminescent wire picture?
What about it?
Q:Live wire- bring current to appliancesNeutral wire- returns the current from the applianceMy question is, if we are using AC current, then in the next half cycle, the live wire will return the current from the appliance and the neutral wire will bring current to appliances. Am I right? If I’m right, then both wires have the same function why give them different names? Really appreciate your help.
The live wire pushes the load (or the live wire connects the source to your load) and neutral wire goes from the load to ground (or back to source). So do not think about the alternating nature of AC but how the wires are connected and which one is pushing the load. Another way to think about it is the power flows from the generator to your house, through your panel, into your appliances then back. If you touch the live wire then electricity can flow through you to ground (bypassing the load). But, if you were to grab the neutral wire you will not be shocked because the current takes the path of least resistance, which is through the wire to ground and not through you. So, although the neutral wire can have the same power flow as the live wire you will not get shocked because you are on the other side of the load. Hope that helps you.
Q:my questions is what wires go where. i just bought a Hunter thermostat model # 44155c. on my old thermostat the wires are as followes:W2-jumps to quot;F(Yellow Wire)F-Yellow WireO/B-Light Green WireR-Red WireG-Dark GreenC-Red Wire Y-Yellow WireMy new thermostat has these options:RH, RC, G, Y/O, W/B, Y1can anyone tell me what wires go where?thank you
Well, unfortunately, this particular Hunter model isn't well-designed for operating heat pumps, which is what I'm assuming you've got, since you've got a W2 (aux heat) wire and and O/B (compressor reversal) wire. Still, you can sorta get it to work, but it might take some trial and error, when it comes to the O/B wire, as I'll explain in a minute. Here's the connections you should make: RH - 24VAC hot - connect to R wire RC - 24VAC cool - Jumper this to the RH connector G - Fan - connect to G wire Y - Compressor - connect to Y1 The O/B wire should connect to EITHER the Y/O or W/B, depending on your heat pump. If the reversing valve of the pump is supposed to operate when it heating mode, then you connect to the W/B terminal. If the reversing valve operates in cooling mode, you connect to the Y/O terminal. The other wires should be taped off with electrical tape and left disconnected. These wires are: W2 - auxiliary heat control - leave disconnected (your thermostat can't activate auxiliary heat) F - not sure what this is, to be honest; it might be for controlling a thermostat system check LED C - 24VAC common. Your thermostat doesn't need it.

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