Hot Dip Galvanised Iron Wire

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Product Description:

Hot Dip Galvanized Steel Wire

(1) Quality : Meet GB/T 343 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(2) Zinc Coating: Meet GB/T 15393 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(3) Raw Material : Wire rod ——1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc with 99.995% purity.

(4) Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)

Tensile Strength (mpa)

0.15-1.60

290-550

0.65-1.60

400-550

1.61-6.00

400-1200

(5) Application : Used in wire mesh , artware , metal hose , binding for agriculture and construction , etc.

(6) Packing

Size (mm)

Coil Size

Spool Packing

Big Coil Packing

ID (mm)

OD (mm)

0.15-0.26

6 inch

1-14kg/spool

0.27-0.60

8 inch

1-100kg/spool

0.61-1.60

12/14/16 inch

1-100kg/spool

250-400

400-770

1.61-6.00

14-500kg/spool

450

800

508

840


(7) Zinc Coating

Meet GB/T 15393 standard.

Size (mm)

Weight of Zinc-Coating ( g/m2 )

A

AB

B

C

D

E

F

A1

B2

0.25

30

20

18

>0.25-0.40

30

25

20

>0.40-0.50

30

20

>0.50-0.60

35

20

>0.60-0.80

120

110

40

20

>0.80-1.00

150

130

45

25

>1.00-1.20

180

150

50

25

>1.20-1.40

200

160

50

25

>1.40-1.60

220

180

50

35

30

>1.60-1.80

220

180

70

40

30

>1.80-2.20

230

200

80

50

40

>2.20-2.50

240

210

80

55

40

>2.50-3.00

250

230

90

70

45

>3.00-4.00

270

250

100

85

60

30

>4.00-5.20

290

270

110

95

70

40

>5.20-6.00

290

270

245

110

100

80

50


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Q:Perpendicular Current carrying wires?
Take your right hand and point its thumb to the North representing conventional current flow (Plus to Minus) in the top wire. Visualize the curl of your right hand's fingers can now be replaced be visualizing a bike tire rotating from nuckles to fingernail. Now do the same with the wire having current going East. Contact the two bike tires together a some infinitesimal spot. If those tires are exactly perpendicular in the X and Y (Z doesn't seem to matter because it is the point where they touch), it would make sense to predict that on top a vector will point West and on the bottom a vector will point South. The net vector should be SW. So, if you marked the initial point of cross over on the wires and mechanically could keep them free to move but still perpendicular, the cross over point would move SW for as long as equal current flowed in the two wires.
Q:How do I connect a threaded wire with a naked solid copper ground wire with a wire nut?
Early on as an electrian I had a mentor who gave me this tip....take the stranded wire and lightly rub it in a clockwise direction, not a real twist just mold it so it sticks together a bit, place the two wires side by side but cheat the stranded wire up a bit so it (apprears) longer than the solid by maybe 1/32 of an inch. place the wire nut on and twist, you will feel it grab continue toi tighten just until it begins to pull the insulated part of the stranded wire taught.... you will see what I mean and understand....gently tug on stranded wire to make sure the joint is good.
Q:Electric Tape vs. Electric Wire?
Tape is easier to see. Tape is easier to handle, put up and take down. Tape is easier to repair. Tape does not rust. Yup, tape is better.
Q:Electrical question about wiring a ceiling light?
disconnect the outlet in your ceiling and expose the wiring and hardwire the new light this way, using the supplied wire nuts etc... if its an older home you may have trouble matching the new wiring scheme (black wire, white wire, copper wire) to what is existing in your ceiling... turn the juice off before you try (at the switch that controls the light and throw the breaker or pull the fuse just to be safe) thats always the way it works... attach the ground wire to a screw that holds up the new light (if its not grounded all the way through the circuit it wont matter anyway) if you have an electricity tester try and determine which wire is hot and connect the black wire to that one, white wire to the other one.. maybe you can tell by the way the outlet was wired which one was carrying the load if you look closely at where the connections were made, often times those hot screw terminals will be differnt color than the neutral (gold vs silver?).. if all else fails i would say the blue marked one was marked for a reason, probably to show that it is hot.
Q:wiring receptacle in bedroom?
A 15 Amp receptacle will work, of course, but the receptacle box is most likely already overfilled. So in order to keep the wire count down, your best way to go is to buy a receptacle that uses screw down connector tabs. (NOT the kind that you have to put the wire under the screw, but the kind that you insert the wire into the back and then turn the screw down to clamp onto it!) The receptacle is a little more money but it would be worth the expense to make this hook up work. Hot wire (Black): Connect all three black wires to the back of the receptacle on the brass colored screws. Common wire (White): Connect all three white wires to the back of the receptacle on the silver colored screw. Ground: make a short pigtail of bare copper wire (about 6 or 7 inches long). Then connect the pigtail to the other 3 bare copper ground wires using a wire nut. Then connect the other end of the pigtail to the grounding connection of the receptacle. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN YOU DO ALL OF THIS SO THAT YOU CAN LIVE TO TELL THE TALE! :-)
Q:Car stereo wire harness?
What kind of car is it? That's important, especially if it's a foreign make because those wires are so weird colored. Typically, yellow or ornage is power, red is memory, and the purple, gray, white, green wires are for the speakers .Black or brown wires are ground. Any blue wires you might come across are mainly just auxiliary signal wires that go to an aftermarket amp and subwoofer setup. Unless you have something like that, those wires can be taped off and forgotten about. Also, when wiring an aftermarket radio to your car, you will need to purchase an adapter harness that plugs into the stock wiring of the car and the wires connect to the radio wire harness correspondingly. I suggest soldering all the necessary wires and sealing them with shrink tube. It's the most solid, most sure way of a good connection without the worry of shorts and disconnections.
Q:Is it because of my wire?
I have no idea what you did. Which speaker(s) makes a static noise? You cut your wire in half. Which wire? Is your subwoofer wired to the speaker outputs or the SUB OUT on the receiver? Did you splice this wire or simply trim it, strip the ends and plug it into the receiver speaker outputs and the terminals on a speaker? What are you powering these speakers and subwoofer with? A receiver or an all in one HTIB unit? The best way to get good answers with any question is to provide as many details as possible - model numbers and the conditions under which the problem occurs. Details please.
Q:how long does it take for the ortho. to change my wire?
Depends on how many little kinks he's putting in it. Also depends on how fast he works, if your wire needs a lot of work or a little, and if he already has an idea of what he wants to do or if he's just guessing along the way. It shouldn't take longer for him to make the actual kinks than it does the remove and replace the wire. That's a little more labor intensive and can take about 5-10 minutes for each wire. The whole thing, uninterrupted might last 30-45 minutes.
Q:what0 gauge power wire?
Just get some 0 gauge at home depot. You are wasting your money with anything else.
Q:Yamaha Virago 700 wiring diagram?
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