• Horizontal Split Casing Water Pump for Irrigation System 1
  • Horizontal Split Casing Water Pump for Irrigation System 2
  • Horizontal Split Casing Water Pump for Irrigation System 3
Horizontal Split Casing Water Pump for Irrigation

Horizontal Split Casing Water Pump for Irrigation

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Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Horizontal Centrifugal Double Suction Water Pump

1.Structure of Horizontal Centrifugal Double Suction Water Pump Description

 

Horizontal Centrifugal Double Suction Water Pumpis used for transporting pure water (particles density shall be max.1%by volumeand granular size shall be max 0.1mm in dimeter) of the liquids with physical and chemical properties similar to pure water. Type MD pump is applied with wear resist material, especially suitable for mineral drainage. The particles density shall be max. 1.5% (Max. of the granular diameter is 0.5 mm).The liquid temperature ofD, MD pumps shall be lower than 80°C.

 

2.Main Features of the Horizontal Centrifugal Double Suction Water Pump

• Compact structure, good appearance, low construction

•Operation stably, same inlet and outlet

•Convenient installation and maintenance

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.Horizontal Centrifugal Double Suction Water Pump Specification

 

Item

Multistage Pump

Multistage Pump

Horizontal Multistage Pump For Pure Water

Model

CMD

Material

Cast iron,Stainless steel

Mode

Horizontal

Color

Blue

Temperature

<=80°c< span=""><>

Seal

packing seal

Theory

Centrifugal Pump

Structure

Multistage Pump

Usage

Water

Power

Electric

Standard or Nonstandard

Standard

Fuel

Diesel

Pressure

High Pressure

Application

Hot and cold pure water

Outlet Diameter

40-500mm

Capacity

6-1250 m3/h

Head

75-1800m

Rotation Speed

1450-2950r/min

Power

5.5-2400kW

Certificate

ISO9001

Feature

High efficiency,Easy maintenance 

 

4.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also

provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we willrecommend relevant product for reference.

 

Q:My water pump broke on my volkswagen golf tdi so I took it to a garage. He charged me ?250 for a new pump and fitting. When I came to collect it he showed me the broken water pump, when I asked if I could keep the broken pump that was taken out of my car he said that there would be quite a quot;heftysurcharge for me to take it with me because they have to send them back to Volkswagen. I thought it was a bit strange. Is that normal?
What you're talking about is what we in America call a Core charge. If I buy a new water pump for my car and take it home to do it myself, the pump is going to cost me $80. There is also a core charge of another $20 from the parts store that I use. So I'm paying $100 to take home my water pump. However, if I were to have brought in my old pump to exchange it...then I would only pay the $80 for the part. Or if I took it home at $100 and then returned the old one after I got my car fixed...then they'd give me the the $20 back. The reason for this is that a lot of companies can recondition these parts and make them as good as new. This is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying new components to make new parts. Say a water pump is leaking only because the seals in it are failing. They can take it apart, replace the seals (and anything that looks like it needs replacing, clean it all up, and put it back together. And that reconditioned water pump (which has a warranty that's the same as the new part and often times better) would usually be sold for $60. So likely that's what's going to happen to it. It'll go back to VW so they can re-manufacture it and recycle it for use in another car that needs a water pump.
Q:A guy i know changed the Water pump on my 02 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.7 in it because it was leaking coolant, when i got it back the leak was fixed but now there is a ticking noise. He thinks that the Timing Chain Tensioner needs to be replaced... can i get some opinions here? does he sound correct?
Chrysler's 2.7 Liter Engine is pure garbage!!!!!! They start ticking and knocking and then they die. Sorry, I've been a victim of the 2.7 Liter as well. I had a 2002 Intrepid with 101,000 miles. It needed a THIRD engine installed. All those 2.7's sludge up and die. I heard the water pump is built inside of the engine itself...
Q:How much should it cost to have the water pump replaced in a 1994 Dodge Ram truck?
50-80 bucks for a water pump + gasket. Thats all, unless you're wanting to take it to a shop or dealership. Then it'll be anywhere from 400-800 depending on the shop.
Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
Q:water pump has small leak
Realistcally you have a 10 12 months previous motor vehicle, so your water pump has used up its existence sorry. provide up leak products are in lots of situations an outstanding powdered aluminum/epoxy combination and NO they gained't fix a water pump seal. previous provide up leak products have been easily extra suitable yet used asbestos as a leak fix, so the government banned its use. My advice, is to save around slightly for yet another value, because it does sound incredibly steep. Sorry approximately your concern. Please remember anti freeze can bypass on the instant, so do no longer threat an engine overheat at a foul time, carry 2 gallons of spare coolant
Q:can this happen that pump is pressurizing system and no flow in suction.
the answer is YES..but NOT from the PUMP..the type of pump most people have requires that flow through the impeller be available at all times or two things will happen !. it will cavitate (that's a gurgling sound at the pump) or 2. It will only beat the water that is in the pump and no flow will be apparent. Either one of these though could be a symptom of a plugged hot water line in the loop. Here is what happens to increase the pressure apparent.. The water on the loop is pressurized from the storage tank to the pump then out to the loop .If the loop is terminated and air gets into the end of the line next to the restriction the outside water pressure is acting like a piston compressing the air that air reacts the same as it would in any compressor and can reach higher than normal operating conditions. If you will find the plug and install an expansion bladder in the highest part of your line your flow ,pressure and noise problems will stop...Good luck with the search...From the E
Q:I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
Q:my 2003 dodge durango broke down 6 weeks ago. the mechanic put it on the diagnostic machine, and it said i needed a fuel pump and a water pump. well i got the fuel pump changed and he told me if i kept water in the car it could hold out for a little while until i get the water pump fixed. so i kept water in it it's been 3 weeks. saturday night all of a sudden i watched the temperature gauge jump to HOT! I pulled over and it was smoking like hell. i'm lucky a friend of mine drove by at that instant and went to his house and got me antifreeze and water and put it in the car. so it was fine sunday. then last nightafter i got home it was smoking again. i let it cool down and then filled it up with water. this morning i took my daughter to school and then drove to my other daughter's daycare and it was smoking like crazy and there was antifreeze and water all over the ground where i parked. so i left it at the daycare and got a ride to work. should i fix the water pump? or is
Your okorder /
Q:I am a business man.My Instituate name is Rockydockyard.This Institiate build up Ships,containerships etc.So we found a high pressure water pump.
I am a business man. You won't be a successful business man if you can't make your point. Good Luck...
Q:So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe
No worries.. there are sometimes four mounts on a transversed engine. (front wheel drive) two at the top, on the frame rail supports, or on the inner fenders, these hold most of the weight of the engine and trans, there are normally two more, but I have seen only one used in some models, these are used to support the engine from twisting or rock on the upper mounts, due to tork or braking forces of the engine. removing ether of these mounts will not effect the support of the engine, as the two upper mounts do all the supporting of the drive-train. Loosening the front mount is safe, just remember that once the front mount is removed, a certain amount of swing or free play will result, as the engine will now just be hanging from it's top mounts, and will hang freely from it's center of gravity, so expect it to move some when mount is loosened or removed, be careful not to get your hand, or other part of the body, pinched or caught when the weight shifts. go slow.. and nobody get hurt... with the possible exception of a few busted knuckles.

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