• Horizontal Pond Water pump Submersible pump System 1
  • Horizontal Pond Water pump Submersible pump System 2
Horizontal Pond Water pump Submersible pump

Horizontal Pond Water pump Submersible pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Horizontal Pond water pump submersible pump 

1.Technical Data :

 

 Flow range

10~500 m3/h

 Lift range

10~600m

 Applicable well Borehole diameter

φ175~φ400mm

Diameter scope

φ32~φ203mm

Temperature range

-15~80 °C

 

2. Horizontal Pond water pump submersible pump:

 

agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation well water lifting

water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building

the hill, mountain areas' water diversion

drainage of low-lying areas

water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area

all the other water facilities

 

3.Characteristics

  (1).  Motors and pumps assembled into one. 

  (2).  Simple structure.

  (3).  Easy installation and removal, small area.

  (4).  Simple using and maintenance.

  (5) non-clogging, no leakage,high quality.

  (6).  reliable continuous running.

  (7).  low noise , long life , small volume , light weight.

  (8)  Safe and reliable operation, no pollution to water, etc.

 

4. Horizontal Pond water pump submersible pump 

(1). 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%, frequency is 50HZ, three -phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2). Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3). The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4). The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5). Water temperature should be no more than 20 centidegree.

(6). Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7). PH value of water 6.5~8.5.

(8). Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.            

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.


Q:I drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander and I am required to change my timing belt as part of preventive maintenance. When I had been to Firestone, they quoted $998 for Timing Belt Water Pump (both parts labor). When I called Midas, they quoted $550 for the same. Does anyone know why there is such a big difference? I have been a regular at Firestone, so Midas is new to me. Are they reliable? Midas is quoting low now, but would there be a surprise charge after I get it done? BTW, how is a water pump related to a timing belt??
When you remove the timing belt cover, then the water pump is internally built into the engine block. It is a couple hours work, so you don't want to pay that labour charge again...6 months later for a water pump problem. Honestly.. a rubber timing belt is about 35 dollars. and a water pump is about 65 dollars. And the labor is about 3 hours maximum. Any good mechanic can do this in the driveway. So... don't feel any loyalty at all to Firestone or Midas, or uncle Louis if you can save some money. There is absolutely NO delicate adjustments, or computerized readings necessary to do this work. $998?? that's the price for lonely women who don't have a father or boyfriend to help them. Yeah... you teen-age mechanics can give me all the thumbs downs you like. I've done a few belts and water pumps. It's a few hours, but easy! THE WATER PUMP NEVER HOLDS THE TENSION ON THE BELT. That is the tensioner pulley, a separate item. teenage armchair mechanics!
Q:I would like a website that has pictures but any info would be helpful...
you can buy books from any local auto shops like PEP Boys or AUTOZONE.
Q:I am having overheating issues with my 1993 3.4L V6 Camaro,Once I start the car with no AC or Heat on while at idle or driving the car will overheat, almost to the red line. When I get onto the highway it will slowly drop all the way down to operating tempeture.Also if I turn on either the AC or Heat while driving around town the car will not overheat.On my way home I turned everything off and let the car overheating, when I got home I opened the hood and the fans are going but still overheating.Also the major sympton is that the water pump will click on and off when I have AC blowing. It will click on and off every 10 seconds or so.New waterpump?
Try a thermostat first. The heater bypasses the thermostat and the engine runs cool. Its a cheap fix and if thats not the fix go with troubleshooting the radiator, colapsed hoses, water pump! Be sure to install it correctly!
Q:I am creating a project where I must pump water to a helmet. If you have any ideas, thoughts, solutions, diagrams, etc. please? thanks
your question is not clear, do you need to build the pump from scratch or you should find one? what is the water flow rate? how high the water need to go? what the helmet has to do with the problem? simplest solution will be to go to the store and buy small hand pump (for fuel).
Q:I would like to ask, the pump power and flow, there is no formula can be converted? For example, the flow of 9000 tons / hour, then how many units to accompany, how many kilowatts of water pump?
Upstairs in Wurenzidi, pump power is related to the flow and the head, a simple formula: = /367 * power flow lift efficiency
Q:i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set
This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.
Q:ive just replaced my water pump as i know it wasnt in good shape and was a big cause of my problems. but the new water pump also seems to make a noise once in a while like its dry and there isnt anywater or its having a hard time. the head is good and has an extra thick headgasket on it. my guess is i have a clogged radiator and it would sound reasonable as i have used head gasked sealant in the radiator and it has prob clogged parts of it. the other symptom is afater about 4 hrs of continuous driving it starts to over heat if im doing 70 bor more but if i drop back down to 65 it seems to stable out or in many cases go down all together. anyone else had thes symptoms. and will a water pump make noise if there isnt anywater to pump.
what is the 22r fitted in as most run a thermo fan assy which is fitted to the front of the water pump if you have this then most likely the thermo is either just about to seize or it's still turn's then its in freewheel mode the best way to check is when the motor is cold check and se if you have a thermo fan fitted if so out one blade at 12 oclock and spin with one hand if the blade goes down past 3 oclock then you will need to open the coupling this is a simple job you will see 8 phillips head screws remove all and crack open the coupling but before this is done go to your local toyota dealer and purchase 1x 08816 10001 silicone empty this into the coupling and close this will fix your problem
Q:My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?
Try raising the pump a couple of feet. You may eventually need the well cleaned out.
Q:I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.
Why okorder /
Q:My water pump is sitting very close if not rubbing against the case. There were shavings and a groove. Would this cause it to knock? Also would this blow up the lower end? One more, Should it be in the center or offset twards the top?
Perhaps one of the shaft's retainers, the bearing, or gear is worn, allowing the water pump shaft to move in and out of the case - causing the impeller to rub on the outer cover. Try to pull the water pump out and push it in - there shouldn't be any play. If there is, figure out why. If the impeller can move in and out, that would cause it to knock. If there were any metal shavings in the coolant, they would scrape the outer cover. The water pump cover isn't an even shape, so I don't know what you mean by should it be in the center The bottom end and the cooling system are 2 separate entities. A problem with one will not affect the other.

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