HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

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1 set
Supply Capability:
900000 set/month

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Product Description:

Product Specifications:



Brand Name:


Bore Size:

17 mm

Outside Diameter:

23 mm

Model Number:

HK 1715 RS

Precision Rating:


Seals Type:

Open or Sealed

Number of Row:

Single Row

Place of Origin:

Jiangsu, China (Mainland)


Chrome Steel


Grease Lubrication


Plastic Bag and Box


HK 1715 RS

Product Applications: 

Needle roller bearings are mainly used in car engines, transmissions, compressors, cranes, etc.

Product Advantages:

1.Bearing Manufactory ( Have our own technical department)

2.High quality products (Long Life and low noise)

3.Well-daserved Reputation (Good Stock Guarantee)

4.Professional service ( Promptly shippment)

5.OEM Service,Sample is available

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:

1.industrial packing 
4.according to your requirements

Delivery Detail:

in stock or 15-30days after P.O




1.More than 28 years export experience

2.Strict quality control

3.Delivery in time

4.OEM service are available with good price

5.Low MOQ

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

HK 1715 RS Needle Roller Bearing Drawn Cup Needle Roller Supply High Precision

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Q:Does skateboard bearings work for razor scooters?
Yeah they should, skateboard and Rollerblade bearings are the exact same bearings, assuming razor scooters take Rollerblade wheels, then yes they would. Go for the swiss'll be floating!!! lol
Q:What skateboard wheels, bearings and trucks for my sons new pool skateboard?
for a pool board the new school sucks wheels are good reds bearings are cheap, reliable and long lasting or swiss labyrinth are twice as expensive, but longer lasting, smooth and only like 35bucks indy lows trucks (independent lows) are really good for air and dropping in, but you get wheel bite( wheel touches board = immediate stop) real easy thunder tricks are the BEST, no kidding, (get the black ones with a hollow king pin) GET THE THUNDERS
Q:Wheel Hub or Bearings??
Jack the car up and put it on a stand. Put one hand on the top and one hand on the bottom of the tire and try to move it up and down, if there is paly, odds are that youru wheel bearing is shot. As has been said, and I agree that the bearings are part of the hub assembly, a little more expensive, but actually, less hassle to replace. If there is no play, put one hand on the left side and the other on the right, and try to move it from side to side, if there is excessive play, then start looking at the tie rods, steering racks (if it has rack and pinion steering), etc.
Q:Main and rod bearings?
Proper way is to mic the journals for size. But in many cases you can still read print on back of old bearings. Originally there would have been (std) printed on back of bearings if they are standard or original size. If crank was turned say ten thousands, bearing would have (.010) printed on back for undersize crank and so on for different sizes.
Q:Is it normal to have to change my wheel bearings and tie rods every couple of weeks when I offroad?
no you should not be breaking wheel bearings and tie rods every couple weeks. I have done plenty of off-roading and have never busted a wheel bearing from it. unless you are jumping the truck several feet in the air and turning the steering wheel before it lands. You should not have this problem at all. either you are getting bad parts or they are being installed improperly. And as far as the IFS not being good enough I would not worry about that. The twin I-beam suspension is at least 1 of the best suspensions that you can get for off-roading (especially jumping) EDIT Yes you can beef up the tie rod ends but There is not a way to do the same for the wheel bearings that I know of. Basically if you want to treat the truck like that then you should expect to have to repair it daily. Also if the truck has independent front suspension then it does not have front leaf springs. I would think that a ASE certified mechanic could tell the difference between the 2 but I may be wrong
Q:when you split the case in a dirt bike do u have to replace all of the bearings and seals?
i would recommend it because you dont want to be back in there for a long time. the bearings are obsorbing air and gas all the time, to deteriorate them. seals will shrink terribly if it has set in storage a long time. any snowmobile mech. will tell you that. the seals have to be in great shape, or it defeats the vacuum effect to such air and fuel into the bottom end. with worn bearings they will try to seize when hot. and without the seals in great shape, it will never run at optimun level. and youll think you have coil problems all the time. you will have to takethe crank, to a shop with a press, the bearings have to be pressed on.
Q:Longboard bearings question?
Little room i try to keep them even not to mcuh or your have troubel trunring snd axle slip
Q:Ok i skate and my bearings are abec 1 i get on it and kick then it just stops?
Any bearings with an ABEC rating aren't worthwhile. Get a set of Bones Swiss or Reds. Bones have been around for a while and they definitely know how to make a quality product that the majority of pro skateboards use today. Bones lasts for a long time so get them if you can afford them.
Q:two bearings in skateboard?
Q:doo you need a certain kind of grease for bearings and all that for a bike?
To answer your question, here is a basic list of lubes for bikes... 1) Chains and external drivetrain parts, brake levers, shifters- light machine oil (NOT motor oil) or appropriate silicone or parrafin based lube depending on riding conditions; 2) Bearings (roller): if exposed to the elements (like the top of a cable detangler), use silicone based oils or something that is easily washed out and replaced. If protected (like hubs), use white lithium grease. NEVER pack the areas full of grease... once clean, wipe in a thin layer of lube on the cups and cones, then roll each bearing around your fingers to give that a thin coat and install; 3) Sealed bearings- NEVER try to lube a sealed bearing. Most have seals which deteoriate when exposed to foreign lubes or degreasers; 4) Cables- apply a thin layer of white lithium grease on exposed cables. Do NOT lubricate inside housings... most have a teflon or delrin sleeve which will soften and get sticky if exposed to lube. Best option is to use stainless cables and forget lubing the cables altogether; 5) seat post, handlebar stem to steerer- if METAL, use white lithium grease inside the seat tube before installing seat post, or when installing stem in (or on) the fork steerer. If carbon/carbon or carbon/metal use the specially prepared assembly grease. Um, how can you open a bike shop kinda thing without good knowledge of bike repair? Lubricants are a FUNDAMENTAL part of repairs and it scares me a little that you want to work on other peoples bikes and put them at risk without knowing your stuff. I assume you mean the headset when you refer to the handlebars. Another fundamental part of bicycle repair is that you know what the parts are called and how they might differ between bikes. I strongly suggest that you spend some quality time with your bike and maybe some $10 junkers found at yard sales to practice on before you get yourself into trouble.

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