High quality wire BV 4 single core environmental protection home installs wiring

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100 m
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500000 m/month

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Product Description:


PVC insulated wire (JB8734-98)




Product use:

This product is suitable for rated voltage up to and including 450/750 of household electrical appliances, instruments, instrumentation equipment, power line fixed laying cable (wire).


Conditions of use:

1, ac rated voltage up to and including Uo/U for 450/750

2, cable long-term allowed working temperature does not exceed 70 ℃ (except BV - 90, BV - 90)

3, the cable temperature under installation should not below 0 ℃

4, outer diameter (D) is less than 25 mm cable allowed bending radius should not less than 4 D,

Diameter (D) of 25 mm or more permissive bending radius of cable should be no less than 6 D.




Model and name

BV copper aluminum poly ethylene insulated wire

BLV aluminum core poly vinyl insulation grade aluminum wire

BVR copper aluminum poly ethylene insulated flexible wire

BVV copper aluminum copper poly ethylene vinyl insulation poly aluminum sheath round wire

BVVB aluminum core aluminum copper poly ethylene vinyl insulation poly aluminum sheath parallel wires

BLVVB aluminum core aluminum copper poly ethylene vinyl insulation poly aluminum sheath parallel wires

BV - 105 copper heat 105 ℃ PVC insulated wire


Working temperature

BV - 105 does not exceed 150 ℃, and the other does not exceed 75 ℃, laying temperature not lower than 0 ℃.


Technical performance

1, finished product wire, insulated wire and finished products in 20 + 5 ℃ for at least 1 h at room temperature water, can withstand voltage test stipulated in the table below.

2, cable has good electrical insulation properties, mechanical properties and ductility can, quality is reliable, convenient and durable.

3, finished product lines of the surface of the insulation or sheath should be continuous sign production name, type and voltage.



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Q:What is the difference between ZR-RVV and ZR-KVV cables?
Most of the current use of CPVC, PVC as the base material, into other polymer materials to improve the high toughness of the high-voltage power cable sheathing. Mainly used for cable laying to guide and protect the cable when the role.
Q:Can two live electrical (positive) wires be used to power a grounded device?
Thanks for answering my question, busterwasmycat. Yes, the power source is the same for both wires so I guess nothing happens when they're both on. Let me fill you in on my idea to see if you want offer any additional advice. I currently have a dash cam hardwired so that it only turns on with the car. This is fine for most cases, but there are times when I'd like to turn it on discretely after I've parked it. So I'm thinking of hooking it up with a second wire connected to a remote controlled relay that's always live. My concern was, what would happen if I forget to turn off the relay and then turn on the car? Lucky for me, nothing. Thanks!
Q:A question on electrical wiring?
Generally what you are proposing would work except you need to use a 2-pole breaker to feed it. If you are going to use 10-3 uf you don't need and shouldn't use conduit at all, and you can't use NM-B in a wet location, which buried is considered wet. If you do use conduit you can use thhn conductors and just a 1/2 conduit. Conduit needs to have 18 cover, and UF cable needs 24. #10 wire may actually be larger than necessary, single phase 120v with #12 loaded to 20 amps would produce a 4% voltage drop, 5 percent is considered acceptable, any load on the opposite leg or less than full load would reduce the voltage drop. And then garden shed, you would have to treat this like a separate building, a service rated disconnect (or panel) and ground rods would be required. Skipping the ground wire is no longer legal.
Q:Will the power cable and inverter control cable together, will affect the speed? Will it burn the control potentiometer?
RVVP2 * 0.75 * 10 is the communication line is a kind of power cable shielded wire, 0.75 square line
Q:Electrical wiring estimate?
If the walls are open to the studs then $200/ box is what I would probably bid for that type of job. So 21 boxes at $200 about $4000 and that does not include special devices or fixtures. Copper wire is expensive now compared to 10 years ago but the main cost is the labor. Mobile homes are a pain to work in.
Q:Electrical wiring eat light seperately?
Least invasive, but somewhat expensive: Without cutting up your existing wiring and drywall, I would suggest a wireless system. There are modules you can buy which screw into the socket. This way the only permanent change required is to replace the dimmer to a standard switch. Just be sure to use dimmable CFL floods to reduce heat buildup. X10 is the most common. I believe there is a luxury brand called Vizia. Small holes, more permanent, and expensive: There is also a system called DALI in which a low voltage signal wire is daisy-chained can-to-can, with an addressable dimming module in or adjacent to each light in the ceiling. The wall switch is removed and the conductors wire-nutted, sending constant-hot to all lights. The controller takes the place of the wall switch, sending digital commands via the low-volt cable. Major holes, least expensive: Simply re-run a separate 14/2 from each can to the switch box. Also replace the switch box to accomodate all these new switches. (Must be special-ordered or built of mulitple metal boxes.) This will involve several small holes in the drywall as well as all the related painting. Also, the configuration may be perceived as odd by future owners. Also keep in mind that a good dimmer costs $15 each.
Q:Cable Model Specification Meaning! I would like to know what the model means! The
Power lines and cables can not be laid together. If the power cord and network cable together: . the transmission line is weak signal. Power lines inside the transmission is strong. Strong current through the wire will produce a magnetic field, the magnetic field will interfere with the weak line of the network cable, resulting in network cable signal is not normal, serious will affect the normal network cable communication. . there are security risks: If the power cord and cable are damaged, the two lines of copper core together. Strong current string into the network cable, will cause the connection of computers and other equipment burned. Serious can cause a fire.
Q:Hi. I am installing a ceiling fan. I need some help identifying electrical wires.?
You didn't say if you had a wall switch. This matters. Generally, both white wires are spliced together and these are the neutral. The 2 black wires are both hot. The ground wires are green or bare copper. You should have 2 black wires coming out of the light/fan; these are hot and are spliced to 2 hot wires from the ceiling fixture. Always black to black and cap these off. You hooked up the white neutral wire to the ground wire which is incorrect. If you don't have a ground wire coming out from the ceiling fixture which would be green or bare copper, just hook the ground wire from the light/fan to the metal plate in the ceiling. Good Luck!
Q:Can I run outdoor electrical wire bare against the house?
romex will be fine
Q:How to find where an electrical short is in home wiring? Continuity test? Breaker holds for short term?
This Site Might Help You. RE: How to find where an electrical short is in home wiring? Continuity test? Breaker holds for short term? First the facts: I think I have a short in an electrical wire in my wall somewhere. The circuit breaker held for 10-15 minute spurts and then would pop. I replaced it and it held for about a week. What does this mean? I installed cabinets and feard I had hit a wire or loosened a connection.

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