High Quality Oxygen Free Copper Wire System 1

High Quality Oxygen Free Copper Wire

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:	Tianjin China (Mainland)	Certificates：	ISO,SGS,BV	Model Number:	C10200,C10400,C10500,C10700,T2,C1100BD,C1100BE,C11000,M1,C1201B,M1P,Cu
Application:	industry,construction,decorative	Diameter:	3mm~800mm	Shape:	Round
Length:	3m,5.8m,6m or as required	Grade:	C1220B,CuZn15,H62,C2800B, CuZn40,C61400,C62300,C64200,QSi3-1,C65500,C6	Cu (Min):	99.99%
Alloy Or Not:	Non-alloy	stock:	yes,have stock for standard dimension and weight	brand new:	yes,non-secondary

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Standars export seaworth package or as required
Delivery Detail:	Prompt delivery and upon negotiation

Specifications

oxygen free copper wire
1.Diameter:3mm~800mm
2.Length:1m~12m
3.Material:T1,T2,T3,TP1,TP2,C10100,C1011,C10200,C1020,C12000,T

Item	copper wire rod,copper wire bar,Copper bar,copper rod,bright copper bar,bright copper rod,brass bar,brass rod
Standard	JIS H3250-2006,ASTM B187/B187M-03,GB/T 4423-2007,ASTM B150M-03, ASTM B98M-03,ASTM B151M-05
Material	C1020BE,C1020BD,C10200,C10400,C10500,C10700,T2,C1100BD,C1100BE, C11000,M1,C1201B,M1P,Cu-DLP,C1220B,CuZn15,H62,C2800B, CuZn40,C61400, C62300,C64200,QSi3-1,C65500,C66100,C71500
Diameter	3mm~800mm
Length	5.8m,6m or as required
Surface	mill,polished,bright,oiled,hair line,brush,mirror,sand blast,or as required
Package	Standard export seaworthy or as customers’ requirements
Application	Copper bar can be made as all kinds of deep drawing and bending stress components,such as pin,rivets,washers,nuts,ducts,air gauge,screen mesh,radiator parts,etc.Has a good mechanical performance,under the hot plasticity is good, the plastic fair,under the cold can good machinability,fine welding and welding, corrosion resistance,is widely used an ordinary brass
Export	Ireland,Singapore,Indonesia,Ukraine,Saudi Arabia,Spain,Canada,USA,Brazil,Thailand,Iraq,Russia, Holland,Turkey,Kuwait,Korea,Iran,India,Egypt,Oman,Malaysia,Peru, Vietnam,Mexico,etc

Q:Can we use pilot wire protection to protect overhead line, and which country use this scheme ?: Pilot wire protection can be used anytime anywhere. The question is not where it is used but why, and is it required. Pilot wire protection provides better discrimination of fault location, than, say, an impedance or distance relay. If the zones are too close, pilot wire may be the only feasible solution. .

Q:Both wires are green but unsure if it is the top or bottom wire.: Uhhh, if you don't push the brake pedal down, the light won't come on when you are testing it...

Q:how to connect the wiring from car stereo to amplifier: The consistent potential twine is nearly a small direct line from the battery, as in it is many times warm, yet once you have been placing it to the useful of the upload-ons it could have in basic terms been becoming a circuit. it is to no longer say which you probably did no longer short out the wiring some incorrect way and that i'm unsure what the twine grew to become into which you genuinely touched with the consistent, yet it is many times run from the useful part as a relentless, till you have a grounded useful electric equipment on your motor vehicle. you does not in an '89 Escort till you probably did that your self. Wiring could be with any luck fused, even regardless of the indisputable fact that i do no longer understand how some distance back the fusing may well be, no count number if or no longer this is each and every of the previously to the fuse field or a separate fuse closer to the wiring.

Q:Wiring together 200 + different colored LEDs. Voltage per LED ranges from 2.5 - 3.6. What is the best way to go about wiring them together and what type of power source should i use?: You have the voltage requirements for the LEDs, but a current requirement (and hence a measure of power consumed) would be useful. Find this out. Regarding power source, a battery that satisfies the requirements below will suffice... You have a choice of wiring in series or parallel. Parallel means effectively a branch of wire per LED (voltage over each LED is battery voltage; current into each is battery current divided by number of LEDs), while series means one long wire going through them all (battery current goes through them all, voltage over each is battery voltage divided by number of LEDs). Depends on the presentation you want, and what you are using them for. When you decide which wiring type you want to use, just make sure the wires you buy are sufficient for carrying whatever current you predict will be flowing through each. Have fun :p

Q:We added an AC to a preexisting sx 80 furnace and we are having a hard time wiring the new thermostat to the furnace, and the condensor to the furnace. Anyone know how to get a wiring diagram?? thanks: furnace will have 5 low voltage terminals,,R,,Y,,G,,W,,C...you have to connect R,,Y,,G,,and W at the furnace to R,Y,G,and W at the thermostat...so you have to use at least 4-conducter tstat wire between the tstat and furnace...typically you would use the red wire to connect the R terminals at tstat and furnace,,green wire for G terminals,,yellow wire for Y terminals and white wire for W terminals.. if your tstat wire doesnt have those exact colors it doesnt matter,,just be sure that the wires connected to R,Y,G,and W at the tstat are connected to R,Y,G,and W at the furnace respectively...if your tstat is programmable and requires a common wire to operate,,then you will need a 5 conducter tstat wire between tstat and furnace...the fifth wire, whatever its color,will need to connect the C terminal at the furnace to the common wire terminal at the tstat,,usually the common terminal at tstat is labeled C but not always.....as far as the outdoor unit goes..you will need at least a 2 conducter tstat wire to connect the Y and C terminals at the furnace to Y and C wires or terminals in the outside unit,,usually 24 volt polarity doesnt matter at the outdoor unit,,in other words as long as the 2 wires outside that are connected to the Y and C terminals in the furnace are connected to the [low voltage] 2 wires / terminals it will work,,unless one of the wires / terminals outside is clearly labeled as common.in that case make sure whatever tstat wire is connected to that wire / terminal is connected to C back at the furnace.....so at the furnace there will be one wire [red] connected to R....2 wires connected to Y. [ one going to Y at tstat,the other going to outdoor unit]...one wire [green] connected to G. and one wire [white] connected to W.....and one wire [common,usually blue] connected to C unless tstat requires a common wire,,in that case there will be 2 wires connected to C at the furnace.......hope i made it clear enough.......dan

Q:I have a ceiling fixture outlet which has 4 wires coming out (red, black, white and uninsulated ground). There is only one light switch that controls it. I wanted to attach a light fixture to connect to that, but the light fixture only has 3 wires (red, white and green - ground). How do I connect this light fixture to the 4 wires?: U.S. house? Recent (last 50 years) construction? Not knowing how the box was wired originally presents a problem, but only a small one. Green wire ground to uninsulated ground. White wire to white wire (neutral). You'll have to guess whether to use the red or the black wire from the box to connect to the black wire from the fixture. So, take a guess, and cap the other one with a wire nut. If you're wrong, try it the other way. Just be sure to turn the circuit breaker off before wiring, or re-wiring. Or, while the power is off, inspect how the switchbox is wired. Maybe you'll see that the red wire is capped in the switchbox; suggesting that you should use the black wire. Or (more likely) the red wire is switched, and the black wire is always hot. (This would be useful if the box were pre-installed for a ceiling fan.)

Q:I'm replacing the door speakers in a 2001 Coupe Camaro with the factory sound system. I needed to know which wire was positive and which was negative so I bought a circuit tester. However, I keep getting the reading that both wires are positive. What could be causing this? I know the circuit tester works because I tested it on the battery terminals and it worked fine.: Speaker wire carries AC current. A circuit tester designed for DC voltage won't work, at least for telling you which is positive or negative. (It doesn't matter whether you use chassis ground, or the other speaker wire, as a reference). In the driver's door, the positive wire should be tan and the negative wire gray. In the passenger door, the positive wire is light green and the negative wire is dark green.

Q:let me start off with I am not an electrician I just do basic stuff for side work I came in the project at the end. The lady wanted me to wire in 6 receptacles, a light switch and light fixture all on one circuit. everything is good except for the receptacle at the start of the circuit it has the lead/ hot coming in the power to the other receptacles going out and the power to the light going out (3 groups, 9 wires total). normally I would have used a junction box but I didn't pull the wire. How can I wire this. Would a 15 amp receptacle work?: A 15 Amp receptacle will work, of course, but the receptacle box is most likely already overfilled. So in order to keep the wire count down, your best way to go is to buy a receptacle that uses screw down connector tabs. (NOT the kind that you have to put the wire under the screw, but the kind that you insert the wire into the back and then turn the screw down to clamp onto it!) The receptacle is a little more money but it would be worth the expense to make this hook up work. Hot wire (Black): Connect all three black wires to the back of the receptacle on the brass colored screws. Common wire (White): Connect all three white wires to the back of the receptacle on the silver colored screw. Ground: make a short pigtail of bare copper wire (about 6 or 7 inches long). Then connect the pigtail to the other 3 bare copper ground wires using a wire nut. Then connect the other end of the pigtail to the grounding connection of the receptacle. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN YOU DO ALL OF THIS SO THAT YOU CAN LIVE TO TELL THE TALE! :-)

Q:So I need to tap a few wires, and cut 1 wire and join it with another wire..What would be the best way to approach this? Here are the full instructions so you guys have an idea on what I'm trying to do.quot;On the TAN plug there is 1 ALL PINK(E7) wire you need attach the WHITE wire from your relay to that but don't cut the PINK wire just tap the WHITE into it.Next go the the GREY BCM plug there are 3 WHITE wires.: The instructions seem pretty straight-forward. T-Taps and squeeze-connectors are basically the same thing; achieving the same results, which is to add a connection to an existing wire without interrupting the line. Just make sure you use the right size and type, meaning; don't use a low-voltage connector for a high-voltage application... You'd just fry it up. For the cut wires, I'd use crimp-connectors and some shrink-wrap. Again, using the correct connector. You can use wire-nuts, but the crimp-connectors are a more permanent fix. Good luck to ya.

Q:EL wire, or electroluminescent wire, is a wire which... well glows pretty colors lol. I want to buy some to make a costume, but I have some questions. I have a feeling that it will degrade over time, but how long will it take? Or do they start to degrade immeidately like glow sticks? What is it that causes them to glow, a chemical reaction or something else?: Electroluminescent okorder ) have wire that lasts far longer. You can expect the shelf life of these wires to be about 4-6 years. At that time, the wire just doesn't stop working, it slowly breaks down the phosphor particles, and the wire will get dimmer over time. The expected working life of EL Wire is about 4-6,000 hours which beats your average glow stick by about 5,992 hours...

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