• High Quality LED angle eyes led,Auto lighting system 6000k-6700k System 1
High Quality LED angle eyes led,Auto lighting system 6000k-6700k

High Quality LED angle eyes led,Auto lighting system 6000k-6700k

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Tianjin
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Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
100000 pc/month

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Specifications

Factory price 5 inch 40W auto lighting system led spot light 
1.Stainless steel bracket 
2.high intensity LED 
3.CE ROHS

1. Wide operating voltage range: it can apply to different types of vehicles .

 

2. Long life: more than ordinary advanced LED light bulbs, more than 30000 hours life .

 

3. Aluminum casing, shock-proof waterproof better.

 

4. Light perception: a softer light to prevent glare.

 

5. Waterproof and anti-corrosion: it can in the rain or harsh environments.

 

6. Lumen is 90-120LUMEN / W, much higher than ordinary halogen 20-30LUMEN / W.

 

7. One year limited warranty.

 

8. LED work lights are widely applied to enhance lighting, eg.Vessels,Bus,Off-road vehicles,Trucks,Fire Engines,Forklifts,Mining,Trains,Tanks,etc

 


Q:My Lexus car has just got back from auto shop for fixing its rear door, and when I got home, I noticed that the VSC and VSC off light was turned on. Any suggestion? I just don‘t want to spend a lot of money again (after fixing this door). P/S: I have read the manual and it said this problem relates to the skid and brake system
Is there a button to turn the VSC on and off? Guys at the shop may have turned it off to do burnouts simply turn it back on,if not take it back to the shop and ask 'em what the heck they did to your car
Q:1999 Honda accord and im check engine light is on and I took it to auto zone and they gave me code p1402?
This Site Might Help You. RE: what is the difference between an additive interaction and an antagonistic interaction? can you answer this what is the difference between an additive interaction and an antagonistic interaction?
Q:In my opinion DRL (daytime running lights) are pointless on a white car... if you can't see my car in the day light you're blind and shouldn't be driving to begin with. how do you disable them and the system that turns headlights on automatically when its dark? i don't like the auto turn on becuase its overly sensitive and will turn on the head lights in the shade on a sunny day which kills my bulb life.
White can't be seen in the winter , I even witnessed an accident because the car couldn't be seen ... and yes the daytime running lights do help you to be seen and your bulb life is a non-issue . And if you live in Canada IT IS AGAINST THE LAW TO DISABLE THE DRL.
Q:i recently installed a amp and sub in my car,,couple of days later the battery light is on.why is this???someone told me it cud be because i dont have a battery terminal on my battery on the postive post, and because my battery isnt grounded,,like sum 1 told me the negative battery post has to be grounded,,,mine was never grounded??? my amp is butso help me i dont really noe u my battery light is on??? i never listen to the sub and amp when the car isnt turned on,, and the battery and alternator are in good condition
It's hard to say. The new battery may have a plate loose that moves when you hit a bump or since you had to buy a new battery 3 months ago the alternator may have taken out the old battery if it has an intermittent problem. There may be a loose ground in your charging system.
Q:I have a 96 Dodge Caravan with the 3.0 v6 engine while the vehicle is being driven or is idling the engine light will come on and stay on upon resetting the system the light goes out and stays out but comes on the next time it is driven what is this?
you,ll have to get the computer scanned on it to find out what the code is that's making the cel light come on, there's no way i can guess at it and tel yo for sure whats causing that too happen,most common cause is a bad 02 sensor on them that causes that to happen or a bad,crank sensor on it,if you have it scanned you,ll get code from the computer that will explain why this is happening to it,then you,ll know for sure,auto zone will do it for free,good luck with it.
Q:i own a 2001 maxima and noticed that the airbag light has been blinking. i just bought the car about a week ago and is has been blinking since then. does anyone know how to fix this or what it could be? any help is appreciated.
The blinking of the light is usually in a two digit code that tells what is wrong with the airbag system. Counting the flashes to get that number code, then looking up in a auto computer book, or online for your make, model of car can help identify the problem area. Many times it is just a case where a car has been damaged in an accident, but not one to have set off the air bag, but has caused a wire to come loose in the system to ground. You would have to trace out your air bag wiring to find it, but most times it just isn't economically feasible to take it to a dealer to do. The light will flash a certain number of times, pause for about two to three seconds, then flash another number of times. After each code flashing the light will be off for several seconds before it starts to flash again. Once you have the code that is flashed you can then start looking to the code info online for your car. There are several places to do this, including some manufacturers sites. Good Luck.
Q:How do I correct this? I did get gas 3days ago and the other I day I had the hood pop‘d when it was raining but i needed to to add ani-freeze (spelt wrong) b/c it was low but we go that fixed now.
It's worth removing and replacing the gas cap, because your ECM (engine control module) will detect a failure of your gas tank to partly pressurize by fuel vapors as a problem with your Evaporative Emissions System, and it will light the Check Engine Light (CEL) to let you know. But the mis-fire could be the cause of the CEL, instead. A mis-fire can cause a number of sensors that feed information to your ECM to go out of scale. And you might even have an ongoing problem that is making additional mis-fires more likely. If your car is newer than 1996, you can stop at any Autozone auto parts store, and ask them to read your car's OBD II port, and tell you the error codes your ECM is storing. Using those codes, they can tell you at least what your car's ECM thinks is wrong, and what parts might need to be replaced or checked.
Q:I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus and it cut off on me while I was driving twice over the weekend. Each time, I took it to my mechanic, and he said my electronic system (or something like that) needed to be reset. He also said to not let the car get low on gas. The car seems to be running fine today, but I noticed that when I turn the key to the on position, the engine light glows, flashes for about 5 seconds, then stops flashing but continues to glow. I know the the light is supposed to glow as long as it is in the on position, and should stay on for about 10 seconds after I turn the engine on, then go off. But is it supposed to flash in the on position? ( this is the first time I left the key in the on position for more than about 15 seconds). I‘m taking my car to Auto Zone for a diagnostic check today, but does anyone have any idea what‘s going on with my car? And does this sound like a problem that will be covered under a warranty?Thanks
I have a dodge too. The same happened. In my case it was the Throttle Position sensor. It should be covered under warantee but that is something you will have to find out from them. It was a half hour job on my car. He changed the TPS and reprogrammed the error message. All told $150. Good Luck.
Q:So, according to the sticker that is on my window i should have changed my oil about 2000 miles ago. I noticed my check engine light came on this morning on my way to school. I mostly drive on the interstate and have been convinced that the sticker on my windshield lies about when i need to next change my oil. My question is, Could me not changing my oil make my check engine light come on? I drive an '03 cavalier and since I've had it (over a year now) I've had no problems.
Every 2000 miles! Only if your money grows on trees! Oil change every 3000 to 5000 miles is the norm. All hwy driving tends to make the miles run by fast so trust your sticker! If your referring to the yellow/orange check engine light then that means the onboard computer has found a fault in the engine electronics/emissions. It is not related to the oil in any way. Any competent shop can check it at your convenience. Now if your referring to the red engine oil light then we are probably chatting after your car is in the shop for another engine! The red engine lights means critical engine damaging problem is happening.
Q:said I need to replace the coolant system for $3000 . Also, my windshield wiper fluid will not come out and somehow this is related? The engine has never overheated and we just got a new emission control sticker last week. Any suggestions or can anyone validate this assesmment. I live in GeorgiaThank you
I hope this is not the BMW dealer telling you this! Sounds like you are getting hosed. Drive around and look for a nice clean garage with about 4-6 bays. Look for one with at least 3 BMWs in the parking lot and maybe a VW, Audi, Benz. Then interview the owner or one of the lead mechanics. Interview the shop the same way you would interview a contractor for a room addition. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Edit: You may be due for a coolant flush and fill or some other regular scheduled maintenance that needs to be done at 75,000 miles. I think the i-6 has a timing CHAIN not belt. There are generally 3 types of BMW/Audi/Mercedes owners. Type 1) buys a new or certified used vehicle and understands that cost of maintenance on these $50-120,000 vehicles is going to be more than on a Ford Type 2) mechanically inclined or actual mechanic that can do a $3000 repair for the cost of parts Type 3) ostentatious prat that thinks he can buy a $50,000 car and treats it like a $6,000 Hyundai. Since these luxo-cars are capable of driving even when repairs are needed, this type of owner is usually driving on bad brakes, bad suspension, beyond service life on several components and thinks he looks good 'cuz it's a bimmer, bro'! If you are willing to admit that the cost of maintaining the vehicle is greater than you anticipated you are already moving into Type 1. Congratulations. Although these individual repairs and service needs are more costly, the life-time cost of owning a higher quality vehicle will be the same or less than that of a cheaper car. The difference is you need to budget for these repairs. That way when a $3000 service interval comes around it becomes an inconvenience not an emergency. I'm a Type 2. My 1997 BMW 740iL gets repairs done in my garage. I have a great mechanic that gives advice when I need and does the serious work that I'm not capable of. E.g.: I did the suspension, brakes, radiator, alternator, power steering. He did the new blower motor for the heater.

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