High quality glazed porcelain tiles from CNBM

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Product Description:

ADVANTAGE
1)Professional  Manufacturer
2) Competitive price,high quality and fast delivery time
3) More than 10 years export experience.
4) Well-deserved reputation.
SPECIFICATION
• 1. various sizes are available;
• 2. More than 100 design and colors;
• 3. Both waterproof and non waterproof available;
• 4. Strict control on color tolerance;
• 5. Perfect effect on flatness and glazed surface;
• 6. Ink-Jet technology application on the tiles
• 7. Stable production and supplying;
• 8. Competitive price and payment term
• 9. Stable production and supplying;
• 10. Suitable for economic end using;

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Q:Can I tile an interior wall with granite tile?
Yes, you can tile walls with granite tiles. There is a difference in thickness between floor and wall tiles. All you have to do is make certain that the granite tiles you get are made for the wall and not the floor. If you put floor tiles on the wall, they will be too heavy. If you put wall tiles on the floor, they will be too thin to support weight and will crack and break. As for what wall to put them on, it doesn't really matter, as wall tiles will stay up on either wall. As for my personal suggestion, put them on the horrible panel wall. This way, you get rid of the horrible wall and you won't have the extra cost of taking it off and putting on drywall.
Q:Terracotta roof tile within U.S.?
i install clay tile roofs, usually in the US. americans don't really use permanent roofs so that's why most of the tile is imported. the best company in the US is 400yr old LUDAWICI. they usually have some salvaged pieces as well. also you can try DURABLE SLATE company. they sell salvaged slate along with some tiles. i know a company in south florida called CARPENTERS ROOFING AND SHEET METAL. they have a huge yard full of random clay tiles from 100yrs of installing them. i buy tiles from a company called MASTERPIECE TILES but most of what they sell is imported, however they may be able to get you a few pieces. worst case if you find your exact tile but it must be imported and you only need a couple, tell them you are replacing your entire roof and you need them to send you a few samples to compare them to others. all the best
Q:covering existing tile backsplash?
there are so many choices you can go with the 1st suggestion but remember the depth of your outlets and switches will be much deeper or you can have a section of the old tile removed (like in a 4strip ) and put some glasstiles in that section to update your look -you can also remove random tiles and insert new ones in place or what i recently did for a client was to cover the tile backsplash with stainless steel sheets they also do sell an epoxy to cover them with to change the color
Q:wood or tile flooring in my bedroom?
Tile is very nice if you live in a warm climate like Florida. In cooler areas, it can sometimes feel cold in the wintertime. As to ease of cleaning, I find my tile floors are actually harder to keep up than the wood laminate because the grout gets dirty looking and is a lot of work to clean. I protect my wood laminate floors twice a year with a product made for the purpose and they are quite resistant to spills and scrapes. If you go for wood laminate, however, be aware that there is some cheap imported laminate on the market that will not stand up at all well. Buy at least 9 mm and preferably 12 mm laminate made in US, Canada or Europe. You'll find a rich wood tone in your bedroom gives you a warmer feeling in winter, yet feels comfortable in winter.
Q:I am going to be using a self stick floor tile in a mobile home. What can I use under it as a vapor barrier?
you don't need a vapor barrier. you need a extremly flat surface luan is great for tile. if you don't have a good surface then put luan down. use ribbed nails so they don't pull out of your sub floor use floor leveler to fill the seams unless you run tile along the seam
Q:When to use sheetrock for tile?
It may have been sheetrock that you remember but more than likely it was some type of special backer product that resembled Sheetrock but was made specifically for use under tile. There are several types available at Lowe's like hardibacker or durarock. Both of these products are designed to be placed on the surface to be tiled before the tile is applied and act to stiffen the substrate. In other words they make the surface that the tile goes onto into one big solid piece as opposed to several sheets of plywood. The benefit of this is that is keeps the tiles from moving in relation to each other which will cause the grout lines in between them to crack and gap. These products are generally put down, when tiling floors, on top of a layer of mortar same as you spread mortar to hold the tiles down. Ans then these backer boards are nailed down with roofing nails and the joints are mortared and usually taped like drywall joints are. Then more mortar is spread on top of these boards and the tile is set into this mortar. Floors generally use the 1/4 thick backer board and when applying on walls the 1/2 backer is used. Just nail to the studs and paint with a waterproofing paint then mortar and apply tiles. Good Luck.
Q:Questions about laying slate tile?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:Cutting ceramic tile?
As I understanding your question ,you want make a 10x10 hole in the wall that has ceramic tiles 4x4. 1- Drown a circle by a marker to show the location of the cut . 2- make hole by a carbide drill about 1 inside the circle. 3- By a router machine with diamond bit start to cut (use coolant for cooling bit during cut) . 4- keep the bit inside of the cut line till get the actual size (in case of any crack in tile).
Q:Bathroom tile quandary?
You want to use the concrete backer board for wherever you hang the tile. You need it to help support the weight of the tile on the wall. For the rest, it is probably a good idea to use the greenboard to resist the moisture. And actually, if you get a brand name faucet for your shower, you shouldn't ever have to break out the tile. Most of the bigger name faucet companies have it so the guts of the faucet valve can be pulled out without ever getting into the wall. Then since the back portion is pretty much generic for most of their faucet you should have a variety of new faucet styles that will fit over that valve. You just need to get the kit for the style you like. Just go to a store that specializes in plumbing or bathrooms.
Q:Difference between tile?
Once installed, no there is no way to tell the difference between ceramic and a porcelain.. Side views at a visible cut or whole pc is the only way to tell for sure. Pull up a in floor heat register ( if there is a forced air system) to see... A properly installed tile (ceramic or porcelain) will last the same , so porcelains ( unless a true porcelain and there is a major difference between a trus porcelain and the glazed porcelains most people sell) are over sold to the public. Both are good tile so don t over look ceramics. Any questions e mail me through my avatar. GL

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