• High Quality Fire-Resistant Gypsum Board System 1
  • High Quality Fire-Resistant Gypsum Board System 2
  • High Quality Fire-Resistant Gypsum Board System 3
High Quality Fire-Resistant Gypsum Board

High Quality Fire-Resistant Gypsum Board

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
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Specifications

1) Sepcial healthy breath function
2) Cost effective and more reliable, easy to install
3) moisture-resistance Fireproof

durable moistureproof gypsum board

1)Raw materials

gypsum powder,gypsum retaining paper,fiber(wood fiber,paper fiber,fiber glass),corn, starch,vesicant,lightweight aggregate,citric acid,water,adhesive,etc.

2)Product Description(size and thickness)

Normal size: 2440x1220mm, 2400x1200mm 3600*1200,3000*1200,1830*1220.
Normal thickness scope:7.0,7.5,8.0,8.5mm,9mm,9.5mm10mm,12mm,15mm.
Length scope: 1800-3660mm, Width scope: 900-1220mm,
Thickness scope: 6.00-15.90mm .
About other specification, we could process for you according to your special demand.

3)Qyality standard(thickness):

parametedr

Length

width

thickness

diagonal

unit area mass

landscape breaking load

potait breaking load

tolerance

-4 to 4

-4 to 0

±0.5

less than 5mm

7.0±0.3Kg

more than 140N

more than 400N

4)Packing:

Two pieces glued together, packed by hand with labels on.

5)Loading

SIZE(mm)

KGS/PC

PCS/20GP

SQM/20GP

1200*2400*7

17

1180

3398

1200*2400*7.5

18

1150

3312

1200*2400*8

18.2

1080

3110

1200*2400*9

22.1

970

2793

1200*2400*9.5

22.8

940

2707

1200*2400*10

23.5

900

2592

1200*2400*12

29.5

720

2073

1200*2400*12.5

30

710

2044

1220*2440*7

17.55

1160

3453

1220*2440*7.5

18.14

1130

3363

1220*2440*8

18.58

1060

3155

1220*2440*9

22.83

950

2827

1220*2440*9.5

23.55

920

2738

1220*2440*10

23.83

900

2679

1220*2440*12

30.5

700

2083

1220*2440*12.5

31

690

2053





Q:H guys,Looking to mount an LCD onto a wall but wondering the best way to identify what material the wall is? Are there easy way to test?Thanks in advance!!
the age of the home should tell you that. If its an older home you'll mostly likely have lath and plaster, if its newer .. it'll definitely be drywall. The best way to be certain is to take off a wall switch and inspect the walls them self. You can usually look at a corner inside a wall switch. Btw, if you hand the anchors for the lcd tv into studs it wont matter what kind of walls you got. Use a stud finder.
Q:Gypsum board ceiling can be installed sound what Mody
You refer to the gypsum board hanging speakers, then to find hanging bars (ceiling of the keel), or additional hanging bars, it is not on the wall!
Q:it is always a dry wall
Sure there are different glues made that allow you to glue drywall straight to a brick or concrete block wall. The one problem with brick is that they are sometimes uneven and getting the drywall to contact the brick wall evenly in all places is difficult and can lead to a wavy wall line. What I suggest is to glue furring strips, something like a 2x2 to the brick wall at 16 on center. Use a glue like Liquid Nails Heavy Duty. The best way is to use the quick set-up method. Simply run a bead of glue on the furring strip and place it on the wall where you intend to put it and push it firmly. Then pull it back off the wall and let the glue sit up for about 10 minutes. If you do this, after waiting 10 minutes, you can place it back on the wall and push it firmly in place, and you will not be able to pull it back off. I would also suggest, before gluing, to hold each strip on the wall where they will be going and check for a high spot that may be causing problems. You can always notch out the wood if you find a problem area. The other reason I would use the wood furring strips is that you can always use nails in the wall to hang things later on.
Q:We have recently had a fairly big extension and now a considerable amount of our walls are plasterboard. I had painted one room a couple of months ago and now some of the screws have popped through from the plasterboard. I am now at the point where I need to paint my hall but I am reluctant to do this if some of the plasterboard screws are going to show through again. Should I get the walls skim coated or if any of the screws were going to pop would they have done so by now. Also is it expensive to skim coat?P.S I did paint the bathroom ceiling and first coat the surface was fine, went to give it a second coat and one of the screws had 'popped' Am I doing something wrong with the paint?
sounds like the screws were not properly set or sealed to begin with- probley just poor workmanship. Just so ya know after the screws are put in they need to be sunk in a bit with some pressure - then sealed with mud or patch. I would guess your contractor did that already. ? and are you sure they used screws? i only ask cause sometimes nails are used and they pop causing the problems you mentioned- but the right screw is used it is uncommon that would happen. If you live in a moist area where there is high humidity - it is possible that the plasterboard has expanded a bit pushing the screws out- you can have the humidty levels checked - or you can probley feel if there is excess moisture in the room and maybe that can be cleared up with good ventilation. It is also possible they did not use a long enough screw, or the beam was not hit when it was screwed in- if thats the case then there probley is no remedy except basicly removing all the screws and repositioning them.
Q:I had to have the other walls rebuilt because they were so bad & I'm worried if I remove the wallpaper the plaster will fall off & new plaster won't stick to the crumbling walls. So I'll plasterboard strait over the wallpaper. Good idea or bad idea?
You are interested in doing a wallpaper?Because of the wallpaper can make you feel the new environment. if you interested can anytime contact me 98983256 Jerry Tin. thanks
Q:So, I accidently flooded my bath. The skirting boards around the sink and wood that boxes around the sink have become damp which has now dried out but the wood has cracked and I suppose that it's become warped. Now, I'm not sure how to deal with this as this wood is attached to the plasterboard wall. By removing this wood and replacing it I fear that I might damage the plasterboard wall.Any advice on how to tackle this? I kind of want some advice before I look into calling someone out
With a sharp razor knife, score along the top edge of the base trim. Take a wide putty knife and force it between the plaster and the base trim. Try to gently pry the trim away from the wall using the putty knife. If the trim won't pry away, take a flat profile pry bar and wedge the bar between the putty knife and the trim. Use the putty knife as the pivot point for the flat bar so that the plaster isn't excessively damaged. If the plaster does crack, you can use a wider profile base trim to help cover the damaged areas.
Q:Im doing a loft conversion and have got to the boarding out stage, i need to buy a load of plasterboard but have found wallboard and baseboard are cheaper. should i go for the cheaper baseboard or pay the extra for plasterboard
well plasterboard is made of plaster but looks like drywall..actually drywall and plasterboard is the same only has diff names and ingrediants..it is all good for remodeling walls...and baseboard goes along the bottom of your walls...and acts like a trim..so people cant see the end of the drywall ..plasterboard and the floor seams..its a trim..
Q:It doesn't mention the length, but I need it to be at least 3 inches long. Would this one work?
That one will do the trick if it is three inches long. For all intents and purposes, plasterboard and dry wall are the same thing. Remember, however, if the think you are sticking in is a screw that is 3/16ths, you don't want to use a 3/16 drill, use one smaller so the threads have something to grab.
Q:down. The writing on the back says that i cannot plaster on the side that now faces the floor. What can i do. I have fitted recessed spotlights and now need to make good the surface, ie plaster ready for painting. Can i still do so after maybe pva'ing / bonding the surface?
Just seal with PVA 5:1and add the same to the finish mix

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