High Performance Safty Valves

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A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527


♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

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As long as the eng check light isn't on then it will harm nothing. If the light is on but the van runs good it's because the computer is running in a fixed parameters ( emergency mode ) and it's not running at top potential.
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dont mind buddah ,youl be fine 1 in 5 people have it and never know but you can live a worry free full life just like anyone else as long as you look after yourself
Q:Valve Guide Question?
Ohhhh man. NO DRILLS. I assume you are referring to an Aluminum Cylinder head. To do it correctly you need a drift punch that has a pilot size of the valve stem, and an outside diameter that is just a few thousands smaller than the guide. Disassemble the head completely, put in Moms oven at the highest setting it will go to ( 5-6 hundred degrees ) Pound old guide out from the combustion camber side. ( have every thing ready to go this FFer will be hot ). Coat new guide with something like STP, put in freezer, carefully align it, then slam it home from the valve train side, don't pussy around, get it in before it attracts the heat of the head, if you stop or it stops you will have to repeat the entire process. If you gall the Aluminum ( say O-**** ) Since you have to hit this thing fairly hard you will need to refinish the inside of the guide with the appropriate reamer. Then refinsh Valve seat ( they never, NEVER line up perfectly )
Q:What is the name for a controlled-fill valve?
I've always known them to be simply called motorized valves, but they aren't specifically made to prevent instantaneous pressure build up. They are usually installed as a convenience type of thing and in lieu of solenoid valve which WOULD be an almost immediate full pressure situation, but any valve other than a solenoid activated one will allow for slow build up of pressure. A motorized valve just lets you do it automatically and you don't have to be right at the valve location to open it. Al
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Brake light staying on in the dash? The proportional valve, or transfer valve is a part of your brake system. Look directly under the brake master cylinder, there is a long square block of steel or brass, about 4 to 5 inches long. It will have two brake lines from the master cylinder going in, and two more coming out, going to the four wheels. In the middle, or one end, will be a wire attached. If your brake light on the dash is on, it means the valve shifted off center, because one wheel cylinder/caliper may have failed, or one of the two reservoirs in the master cylinder is out of fluid. Once you find out what the real problem is with te brakes, the system must be bled in a certain way to re-center the valve, so the light goes out.
Q:Can any one tell me how can i make a one way valve at home?
Its called a check valve.
Q:how does a guitar valve amp work?
Most valve amps I have used reproduce the sound of a tube amp. Tubes have a warm sound and can be overdriven to get that good rock crunch distortion sound. We went to solid state because they were durable and didn't require the maintenance of a tube amp. Printed circuits and transistors cut the cost of manufacturing. The old tube amps still have the purpose and they never quite matched the exact sound of tubes with the solid state amps. That is why they are making a lot of tube amps now.
Q:how to replace 1991 honda accord heater control valve?
Do it from underneath. Drain the cooling system and cut the short hose between the heater core and the valve with a sharp knife. Unfasten the actuator cable, loosen the clamp on the heater hose and work the heater hose off it. Use the sharp knife to slice the remains of the short hose off the heater core... be gentle because the soft pipe is easily deforned (which is why you must not try to wrench it off). Put a replacement hose on the new valve and reassemble. When you refill the cooling system be sure to purge the air by opening the bleeder nipple on the upper radiator hose housing at the engine until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Watch out for the sharp edge of the catalytic converter shield! I have a scar on my wrist from learning that the hard way. EDIT - I forgot to mention - if the cable seems to be misadjusted on the valve when you are done, remove the passenger side of the console and look at the mixer linkage in there. The cable housings often slip in the clamps.
Q:Presta valve bike tube?
First off, there is no question that presta valves are better! The larger a hole drilled through a rim, the lower its strength. Thus, all other things being equal, a rim drilled for a presta valve will be stronger than a rim drilled for a schrader valve. Tubes with presta valves are slightly easier to pump with a mini-pump than a schrader valve. Finally, they are a bit lighter than a Schrader valve. Secondly, you need to buy a new tube. There is utterly no hope for a repair if the valve comes out. Hope this helps.
Q:hydronic heating zone valves?
Its just an educated guess but I would say it would cause system shock if a valve just snapped shut as against closing gently. Assuming the system was shutting down as a zone valve shuts the control switch opens and turns off the plant whilst the valve is still partly open. With a solenoid unless you fit a timer to pre shut off the plant then shut off the solenoid you would probably cause some plant damage. Also by the time you have wired all that lot up you may as well do the job with a zone valve.

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