High Efficiency End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump

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End Suction Centrifugal Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.End Suction Water Pump Specification

 

Design

Performance and dimensions referring to BS EN733/DIN24255

Structure

Horizontal,Axial,End-Sution,Single-Stage,Single-Sution,Volute,Casing,Back,Pull-out, Centrifugal Pump

Flange

DIN2501(ISO7005.2/GB/T17241.6 PN1.6)Standard, ANSI B16.5 Class150lb optional)

Rotation

Clockwise viewing from the drive side

 

Casing

Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Impeller

Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Shaft

ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional

Shaft Seal

Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

 

Flow rate

2-1100m3/h

Head

2-152m

Speed

1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)

Working Pressure

1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

 

4.Picture of End Suction Pump

High Efficiency End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

 

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Q:No Water in house/well/pump?
Well Pump Not Working
Q:how to install water pump for a 1988 honda acord?
hello Purchase a how to book, because part of the water pump sits behind the timing belt cover.Hope this was some help.
Q:overheating and water pump?
Hopefully you didn't run it to long while it was overheating. Your going to have to replace the waterpump from your discription it sounds like it's bad. It's not a hard job to do if your mechanically inclined. If not buy the repair manual to do it yourself or pay a professional.
Q:Water Pump Questions?
no dif they only thing is it will get more air which is a good thing for wine
Q:how to replace water pump on ford focus?
Not very easy, apparently, but probably not as hard as a timing belt driven water pump is (first source). You don't mention the year or engine, but if you plug your actual info into the estimator in the second source it will give you a better idea. I used a 2000 Focus with 100K miles; it looked like 2 1/2 hours of labor (figuring about $100 per hour) for the dual OHC engine and about 2 hours for the single OHC engine.
Q:Tips on proper maintenance on water well pump and service tank?
The okorder.com/
Q:Alternator belt and water pump leakage relations?
Depends. On older vehicles they used multiple drive belts for the different components (my '88 Caprice had 3 belts), but most newer vehicles only use 1 belt called a serpentine belt which drives multiple components (my '00 Dodge Ram 1500) If you lose your serpentine belt it will set the battery light as the alternator is not outputting the correct system voltage, and since the same belt drives the water pump then yes the car will overheat. It's dangerous to keep driving like that, most newer cars have aluminum heads which will warp when they get tooooo hot = expensive repair
Q:99 Oldsmobile Intrigue, water pump recently replaced, and now temperature seems high?
There's a few different things that could be causing your problem. 1: Did they change the thermostat? If so, they may have replaced it with a defective one. If not, then it may need to be replaced. 2: What was the reason the water pump was replaced in the first place? if it was for any other reason than leaking then this could be causing your problem. 3: They might not have gotten all the air out of the system. when you drain all the water and then fill system back up, there are large air pockets in engine that must be bleed out. If not, these air pockets will get trapped behind the thermostat and cause the thermostat not to open when it's suppose to! 4: Are your cooling fans coming on? If not, you may have a bad temp sensor, causing your fans not to come on while you are stopped. This type of problem is hard to narrow with out seeing it in person. I would take it back to the place that replace your water pump and see if they can figure it out.
Q:How hard is it to replace a water pump?
If you don't have any experience working on cars aside from changing oil my suggestion is to take it in and get it done. You need to drain the coolant, loosen the belt, and then try and torque off those bolts that are prolly sticky on the water pump. And if the water has eaten through the gasket you may need to get the engine block redone where the water pump rests. Oh but don't go to Meineke yuck, you might as well pull your pants down at your own house and sit on a plunger handle; at least it is free and will probably be less painful.
Q:calc work-water pumping question...?
Work is force x distance, which is conveniently pounds x feet. Since we are only interested in the height here (as that is the direction we are pumping), we only need to integrate along that path. The differential weight/force being pumped is the volume (LxWxH = 2 x 3 x dH) times the density (80) and the distance is the height that volume is pumped (6 - H). So W = integral( 6 * 80 * dH * (6-H)) from H=0 to 6 W = integral ((2880 - 480H) dH) = 2880H - 240*H^2 = 2880(6) - 240*(6)^2 = 8640 foot-pounds of work. If you are pumping from the spout, replace the 6-H with 11-H, and the answer becomes 23,040 foot-pounds, which makes sense since you have almost tripled the averge height you were lifting. For the 2/3, change the range of the integration to H = 2 - 6, since H = 0 - 2 represents the water at the bottom of the tank that will still be there later. This gives you answers of 3840 and 13,440 foot-pounds respectively, showing that the last couple of feet are the hardest to pump out (because they have the farthest to go...)

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