High-Efficiency 260W Polycrystalline Solar Panel

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100 watt
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10000 watt/month

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Item specifice:

Material: Polycrystalline Silicon Max. Power(W): 260 Number of Cells(pieces): 60

Product Description:


Product Description

260W Poly Crystalline Solar Panel

Product Highlights:
  1. Guarantee positive power tolerance (0~+3%)
  2. Module can bear snow loads up to 5400Pa and wind loads up to 2400pa
  3. High performance under low light conditions (cloudy days, mornings and evenings)
  4. Certified by Europe standards of TUV, IEC, CE and British MCS and AUS CEC
  5. OEM/ODM available

Electrical Characteristics
Maximum Power [Pmax]260W
Power Tolerance+/-3%
Maximum Power Voltage [Vmp]30.5V
Maximum Power Current [Imp]8.53A
Short-Circuit Current [Isc]8.81A
Open-Circuit Voltage [Voc]37.7V
Module Efficiency15.98%
Max. System Voltage1000VDC
Cell Size and SeriesPoly 156*156  60pcs (6*10)
Temperature Coefficient of Pmax- 0.47% / º C
Temperature Coefficient of Voc- 0.33% / º C
Temperature Coefficient of Isc0.05% / º C
Mechanical Characteristics
Dimension (mm)1640*992*40
FrameAnodized Aluminium Alloy
Glass3.2mm,High Transmission,Tempered Glass
Junction box & CableIP65 Rated weatherproof connectors
Cable: TUV 1x4.0mm2 / UL12AWG,Length:900mm

Industry-leading Warranty:
Warranty on material and workmanship: 10 years
Guaranteed output of 90% after 12 years and 80% after 25 years.

High-Efficiency 260W Polycrystalline Solar Panel

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Q:solar panel design question?
Because we and the trees are trying to solve a different problem. We want electricity, a tree wants light (and some heat) for photosynthesis. In getting the electricity we use Silicon for solar panels. (Sometimes Gallium Arsenide). And we exploit the same thing in Silicon that allows them to be computer chips. The fact that they conduct differently when voltage is applied. But for a solar panel that is done essentially in reverse. We GET a voltage difference (electricity) from shoving energy through it. Look up junction bias on google or yahoo for explanation. But the DESIGN problem is: You have to couple these panels together the right way - according to their bias. You can't string them up willy nilly. There is a pattern. And when one breaks in this pattern. (I mean when the actual panel cracks, which they do easily as they are brittle). It can change the overall bias. This can make even be worse than if it was removed, it can actually fight against the working ones. The efficiency is there in arranging them like a tree, but the practicality of maintenance would be daunting.
Q:highest known watt output for solar panels?
in case you raise a dumb-bell a undeniable style of feet, you have expended a undeniable volume of potential, does this variation if the gymnasium exchange into on yet another floor of the construction? Grounding is needed for defense and to dodge floor loops from happening, the quantity of potential produced would not exchange and any adjustments in potential will bring about a risky floor loop attempting to equalize it.
Q:Power Point on solar panels?
Create okorder.com/
Q:Why did the voltage of a solar panel drop significantly after putting it through a step down voltage regulator?
you cannot treat the open circuit voltage of a solar panel like a voltage source (like a battery.) the load response of the panel doesn't behave that way. small panels and panels that are producing less than about .5A are very happy to have their output voltage pulled down to whatever they're connected to (typically zero.) I observed the same phenomenon when i connected a 2V 725mA panel to a 2V 325mA fan -- the open circuit voltage of 5V dropped to 3V when connected to the fan, and returned to 5V when disconnected. The easiest workaround is to use 2V of rechargable batteries in parallel with the panel so that the battery holds the 2V potential difference and the panel just supplies the current. any excess current charges the batteries, so you might consider whether or not you need some type of charge controller to prevent burning the batteries via overcharging. there are actually very few applications of solar panels connected directly to circuits that i have seen that have any kind of robust performance -- if they work at all, they eventually die/burn themselves out in a couple of months. the best robust designs always have a rechargable battery and charge controller somewhere in the power circuitry to buffer the load circuit from the panel. .
Q:Can pluto recieve energy from solar panels?
Two problems: ) solar flux. Around Earth, we receive solar energy to the tune of 370 W/m^2 (watts per square metre). In theory, if you have a solar panel of metre by one metre and place it (in space) directly perpendicular to the rays of the sun (meaning = the panel is facing the sun perfectly), you should get 370 watts of power. In practice, the panels are never 00% efficient so that you get less. The flux (just like the intensity of light) drops as the square of the distance increases. Pluto is -- on average -- 39 times further from the Sun, therefore the flux there will be reduced by a fraction of 39^2 = 52 times 370 / 57 = 0.9 W Even with 00% efficiency, you square metre panel will produce less than one watt, once you get it out to Pluto. 2) temperature It is very difficult to built a solar panel (with all the required wire connections) that remains flexible enough at Pluto's temperatures. Temperature drops as the 4th root of the flux (or, to make it easier, the square root of the distance). sqrt(39) = 6.25 Temperature at Pluto = Temperature at Earth / 6.25 (in degrees Kelvin -- also known as Absolute Temperature) At best, temperature around here is 300 K (it is less than that, but 300 makes the calculation easier) 300 / 6.25 = 48 48 K = -225 C = -373 F wires and insulation become very brittle at these temperatures... and one watt of power flowing through the wires will NEVER be enough to warm them up (never mind running the iPod).
Q:What size and watt solar panel?
I think that typical solar panels are 2'x4' and produce something like 800-000 wh per day. (That's 0.8 - kwh per day.) More in the summer, less in the winter, if they're aimed sort of at the sun. There are newer, more expensive panels that produce more. There are also thin film panels that are less expensive, and probably more sturdy. You then have a couple choices. In a house, you'd have an expensive inverter to connect to the utility power, so you can have power at night when your panels aren't generating anything. In a trailer, you want 2-4-6 deep cycle car batteries to store the power. Then you could have an inverter to convert that power to 20v AC, so you could use normal appliances. Or, you could buy appliances that run on 2 volts DC. Maybe a combination of both. You'll need to figure out how much power you're going to use, so you know how many panels and batteries you're going to need. The calculation is easy. Figuring out how much power you need is hard. You need deep cycle batteries because you can repeatedly charge them way up and run them way down. Ordinary batteries die fairly quickly when you do that.
Q:is it worth it to install solar panels?
The trouble is that it is so expensive to have installed and as you say it will take many years before you actually start saving above what the installation cost was, I personally would not go ahead and make that sort of investment, it would be more profitable to keep the money in a building society, get the interest from it and use that to pay for your electricity but the main thing that I have against solar Panels is that unless you stay in that house for at least twenty five years you will not reach the point where you are saving and to capitalise on it you would have to stay there for many years more, so you will not have the option of moving house without losing your investment and at the moment having solar panels does not increase the value of the property, it is just a good selling point, when you buy your new house, you would probably have to start all over again and then because of the years will never live long enough to reap any benefit from it.
Q:what are bad things about solar panels?
. Expen$ive. 2. Must be large to generate much useful energy 3. Don't work in the dark 4. Lose efficiency if not kept clean 5. Lose efficiency in less than full sunlight 6. STILL don't satisfy the tree huggers...they delayed a solar panel farm out west for years to wait on an environmental impact study of the land beneath the panels.
Q:Help with Home Solar Panel System?
I think this will help you a lot. :)
Q:Which solar panel should I choose?
There is more to sizing a system than simply selecting panels. I would suggest that you contact a solar installer to do a bid on your system. The quote should be free, and you can always say no. If a house used 40 kWh per day in our area, that would suggest a 6 kW array to offset substantially all the energy usage over the course of a year. Serious panels tend to be in the neighborhood of 200 watts nowadays, and that would mean 30 of those. You could size the system smaller, of course, if you wanted to offset a smaller percentage of your electricity. If there is any way that you can reduce the energy requirments, that will save you more money than putting in big solar. For example, if you can cut that in half by adding insulation and more efficient appliances, you will save more money than if you got a big array to power everything as-is.

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