• H13 Auto Lighting System Xenon Bulbs Headlight System 1
H13 Auto Lighting System Xenon Bulbs Headlight

H13 Auto Lighting System Xenon Bulbs Headlight

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Tianjin
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
100000 pc/month

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Specifications

Factory price 5 inch 40W auto lighting system led spot light 
1.Stainless steel bracket 
2.high intensity LED 
3.CE ROHS

1. Wide operating voltage range: it can apply to different types of vehicles .

 

2. Long life: more than ordinary advanced LED light bulbs, more than 30000 hours life .

 

3. Aluminum casing, shock-proof waterproof better.

 

4. Light perception: a softer light to prevent glare.

 

5. Waterproof and anti-corrosion: it can in the rain or harsh environments.

 

6. Lumen is 90-120LUMEN / W, much higher than ordinary halogen 20-30LUMEN / W.

 

7. One year limited warranty.

 

8. LED work lights are widely applied to enhance lighting, eg.Vessels,Bus,Off-road vehicles,Trucks,Fire Engines,Forklifts,Mining,Trains,Tanks,etc

 


Q:I have a 2000 honda accord ex and the check engine light is on, i took it to advanced auto and they couldnt find the code but a few days later i took it back because it was still on on they said something about a o2 sensor or circuit then a couple days later i took it to the dealer i bout it from and they couldnt find the code what should i do cuz i have to take the car in for emissions
there are a few possibilities including the possibility that there is a problem in the connector that the scan tool is hooked up to. the first thing to do is to disconnect both of the battery cables from the battery. Then hold both of the disconnected cable ends together for at least 3 minutes. be sure you have good contact on both cable ends. that will remove any stored electrical charges in the system that might cause the light to go on for 'no reason'. after three minutes you can put the cables back on the battery and thghten them. then, turn the ignition switch to the ON position (do not start the engine). watch the check engine light. it should stay on for at least 20 seconds. if it does, then you should be able to start the car and drive it and if the light stays on you should be able to retrieve a diagnostic trouble code with a scan tool. if you can't get a code at that point you either have a problem with the connector that the scan tool is being pluged into or a probale with a short in the light circuit that is putting the light on. if the check engine light doesn't stay on for 20 seconds when you turn the ignition to ON then the problem is a loose fuse in the fuse box or loose connectors . try this first. if the light is still on and the parts store can't get a code then put another post out and ask again. hope that helps
Q:What is the difference between m4 and m16?
Very little difference. Folding stock, some fire in 3 round burst, not as accurate at longer range than M-16, Fully gas operated. I think they have changed the bolt. It is still an M16 which has been modified. I never liked the M-16's anyway. They jam too much, as does the M4.
Q:I recently installed a new audio system in my truck, then i started to notice the battery light come on. it went off for a couple days, then i installed a capacitor just to be safe and then the battery light came on and has stayed on... any ideas on the issue. all the audio equipment is installed correctly. 300 watt amp and 1 farad cap.
stop at any auto parts dealer and get your charging system checked out to make sure your alternator is putting out the right power for your battery,they do this test for free.it takes a matter of minutes.good grounds are important clean steel area with o ring clip on the wire screwed into the clean area.the ground off the amplifier should be as short as possible.there has to be a reason that your battery crapped out and im thinking alternator.make sure you pick a different place to ground the amplifier not to the cap the cap should be grounded on its own and a good ground to.if your capacitor has a read out on it you should be seeing about 14 volt read out with engine running sometimes it will go to 14.4 then back to 12 volts when you shut the car off and it gos out after a min or two.if the numbers are any bigger than that there is a good chance your brushes in the alternator are tired,the alternator most of the time starts over charging your battery and this is what kills it.hope this helps you out.also check your alternator to see if its getting to hot and make sure you don't get your fingers caught in the belt,that would suck.if its getting to hot its working its butt off.look into the (big 3 upgrade) on u tube and see what its all about.but a 300 watt amplifier should be fine on a stock charging system.i have about 900 watts into two amplifiers and my stock charging system can run this with out a problem.good luck with your system.hope your running your amplifier off the battery itself with the wiring kit they sell for the job.if not this is your problem.
Q:How would i kno if the ac is on?also, how can i check if theres leaks in the system?the previous owner said he had it refilled this year in june
there has to be something that tells you the temp inside the car? A thermometer? compare it to what you set the climate control on it should be the same temp or near. To see if there is a charge put the climate control on the lowest setting and see if the air coming out of the vents is cold if not then there is no charge if you hit the gas a little and the air becomes colder then there is a low charge.
Q:The engine on my ‘05 VW Passat recently flooded while driving in low area during heavy rain. Had everything fixed and car is running perfectly. Yesterday the check engine light came on but the car seems to be running perfectly. What should I check?
Go to an auto parts store and have it scanned for free. They will tell you what code(s) are present and what they mean. Likely a sensor has gotten wet, tripping the check engine light. It may be able to be dried out with some WD-40, or it may have to be replaced.
Q:PLEASE HELP! ok i have a 97 isuzu rodeo, auto,4x4, 3.2. Yesterday i went outside to start it and when i turned the key to ON, it said on the dash that i was in 3RD, but when i turn the headlights on it says its in reverse. If i push on the trans and move the whole Engine, trans and transfer-case assembly up, the car says its in park and acts normal, until i go to start and then it wont start. and goes back into 3rd, I have had the rrabs and brake light on, and now they shut off, the check engine light has also turned off (the code was for o2 sensors). And now when i do start the car and drive it, the trans shifts fairly hard. I AM LOST ON THIS! can someone please point me in a direction!
Check your wiring is my first thought.... maybe someone tried to hack in a stereo system and the electrical tape finally came loose. You have a short somewhere, try looking behind the stereo head unit, most of the dash and trans hump circuits go through that area.
Q:Car headlights what lights the brightest
There is no brightest, only brighter, people only seeking good data, security completely disregard, how much power dare to do, take le d, the current power of the highest brightness of the highest optical technology only 30w, but the market 65w Of all have, but not dare to use it, simply do not pay attention to practical, and far away
Q:i own a 2001 maxima and noticed that the airbag light has been blinking. i just bought the car about a week ago and is has been blinking since then. does anyone know how to fix this or what it could be? any help is appreciated.
The blinking of the light is usually in a two digit code that tells what is wrong with the airbag system. Counting the flashes to get that number code, then looking up in a auto computer book, or online for your make, model of car can help identify the problem area. Many times it is just a case where a car has been damaged in an accident, but not one to have set off the air bag, but has caused a wire to come loose in the system to ground. You would have to trace out your air bag wiring to find it, but most times it just isn't economically feasible to take it to a dealer to do. The light will flash a certain number of times, pause for about two to three seconds, then flash another number of times. After each code flashing the light will be off for several seconds before it starts to flash again. Once you have the code that is flashed you can then start looking to the code info online for your car. There are several places to do this, including some manufacturers sites. Good Luck.
Q:i would like to know if there is any way to have my high beams on and my low beams on at the same time to light up the road better at night
wow, i bet you're that person that we all have driven past who doesnt turn off their highbeams when another car is approaching, aren't you? that car will NEVER pass any state inspection with the lights wired like that. good luck, its bullshit and its illegal.
Q:Hi!BASICALLY, the sb-400 doesn‘t swivel sideways, and the sb-600 is nearly as much as I got my camera for lol, so I‘m looking at alternatives, namely the sb-24.I‘ve done my research (as all good boys do before posting a question on Y! Answers) and I understand that I will miss the iTTL-ness of the SB-x00‘s and what this means.The SB-24 is an auto flash, so as I understand it, there‘s a light meter on the front of the flash that calculates exposure (independently of what the sensor sees through the lens) and adjusts the flash accordingly. Does this mean that losing the iTTL is not a major issue if I keep the flash on-camera so that the flash is measuring the same scene as the camera body?Also, can I use flash compensation with this flash?I guess in short, I‘m trying to get an idea of how much of a hassle losing iTTL really is.
I use Nikons and my humble opinion is your choice is between the Nikon Creative Lighting System (CLS) and going manual. The CLS allows you to control three groups of flashes with up to three flashes in each group wirelessly from either your camera (the D40 does not have this capability) or from a dedicated control unit or an sb8/900 flash mounted on your camera. SB 600s can be used with CLS but only as slaves, not to control the other flashes. This system is extremely powerful but, as you have found out, is also very expensive. With the SB-24, your choice is full manual. The auto flash feature is useless. The flash and camera need to communicate in order for anything auto to be really useful. Since you camera and flash cannot communicate, flash compensation cannot be used. But, so what. If you purchase a cheap off camera triggering system, you can use it very effectively in manual mode. I think it is good to start using manual so that you learn about off camera flash and not just let your camera system make all the decisions. Once you get a good handle on off camera flash, CLS will make a lot more sense. I started with an SB-600 and an umbrella with a cheap OKorder wireless triggering system so that if I mounted it on my camera or used an appropriate chord, I would still have the iTTL option or I could go wireless and full manual. That was a nice option, but as you know, you can get a great umbrella and a used SB-24 for the same price. The very best source anywhere for info on off camera flash is the strobist blog. Start there and you will learn very fast. Best of luck!

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