Grey Ordinary Portland Cement 42.5r n grade

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Specification of Cement





Chemical test


Loss on Ignition


2.0 ÷ 4.0


Insoluble Residue


0.3 ÷ 2.5




19.0 ÷ 22.0




4.0 ÷ 6.0




2.5 ÷ 3.5




61.0 ÷ 67.0




1.0÷ 4.0




1.6÷ 2.2


Free lime


0.3 ÷ 1.5


Toltal alkali, (Max)




(C3S + C2S), (Min)




C3A, (Max)


2.5 ÷ 3.5


C4AF, (Max)


7 ÷ 11


False Set, (Min)




Chloride, (Min)




Physiscal test

9 ÷ 11


Fineness Blaine, ( Min)




Soundness: Lecateller test, ( Max)




Air content or mortar


5 ÷ 10


Autoclave Expansion

0.03 ¸ 0.20


Setting time, (Vicat test)




110 ¸ 160

200 ÷ 300


Compressive Strength

3 days, (Min)

7 days, (Min)

28 days, (Min)





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Q:Is a Cemented or Uncemented Prosthesis Better?
The response to this differs for various people. Because each person’s condition is exclusive, the physician and also you must weigh the pros and cons. Cemented substitutes tend to be more commonly used for older, less active people and individuals with weak bones, for example individuals who've brittle bones, while uncemented substitutes tend to be more commonly used for more youthful, more active people. Research has shown that cemented and uncemented prostheses have comparable rates of success. Studies also indicate that if you want one more hip replacement, or revision, the rates of success for cemented and uncemented prostheses are comparable. However, more lengthy-term data can be found in the U . s . States for stylish substitutes with cemented prostheses, because doctors have used them here because the late sixties, whereas uncemented prostheses weren't introduced before the late seventies. The main drawback to an uncemented prosthesis may be the extended recovery period. Since it requires a very long time for that natural bone to develop and fix towards the prosthesis, you aren't uncemented substitutes must limit activities for approximately 3 several weeks to safeguard the stylish joint. Also, it's more prevalent for somebody by having an uncemented prosthesis to see leg discomfort within the several weeks following a surgery, as the bone keeps growing in to the prosthesis.
Q:what r the raw materials used to make cement?
Cement - the grey powder that is mixed with sand and water and sometimes gravel - is gypsum that is fired at high temperature. Lime can be used, but it has to be slaked and treated in special ways.
Q:How strong is rubber cement glue?
How Strong Is Rubber Cement
Q:how do you tile a cement patio?
most tile is put down on cement so your alright there. go to your hardware store and thy will fix you up but you need a mortar that is good for out side like what you would use for a shower don't for get to put a sealer on it or all your hard work will be for nothing
Q:420 kg cement how many cubic feet?
wet or dry? assuming dry: But there are many unknowns, see below. I'll take a number of 1000 kg/m³ and you can change as needed 420 kg / 1000 kg/m³ = 0.4 m³, which converts to 14 ft³ Cement (finely ground gray or white powder used to bind concrete mixtures) weighs between 830 kg/m³ and 1650 kg/m³ depending on its handling. The weight of cement that has been pneumatically loaded into a cement silo may be as low as 830 kg/m³, while cement that has been stored for a period of time exposed to vibration may be as heavy as 1650 kg/m³.
Q:5 different types of dental cement?
Zinc phosphate cement Polycarboxylate cement Silicate Cement Glass Ionomer Resin based glass composites (filled resins
Q:How do I set a picture in cement or Plaster of Paris?
Let's see... I think plaster might be too fragile. You know, you can mix equal parts of plaster and cement. It'll set quick enough, and be strong enough. Because, cement can take days to set properly. With the mix, half an hour, tops. The picture alone will probably get ruined, like putting paper in water. I'd keep it in a frame, or glue it in later. I'd leave a space in the stepping stone so when I put the picture in, it'd lie flat, not on top of the stone. Inset. Then I'd cover it with plexi-glass. A lot of hardware or craft stores will sell little sheets. In fact, maybe I'd just make the stepping stone into one large picture frame. I'd use something of equal size and make sure that I used a lot of release (wax, soap, grease) and some pieces of wood to make a mold, where you'll pour in the mix. Make sure you coat anything (table, boards of wood) in release that you don't want stuck to the mix. Then it's just a bit of thinking and testing to find what will work.
Q:calculate quantity of cement needed?
You don't need cement at all. Ceramic tile is installed using thinset mortar. There are several types depending on the particular type of tile and the substrate you will cover. Additives are recommended for certain situations. The tile manufacturer should have a recommendation for mortar type and additives, if needed. Mortar coverage is given as a range, and each manufacturer will state that range on the bag. A typical sanded mortar will cover 0.3 to 0.4 square meters per kilogram. A 50 kg bag will cover 15-20 square meters, so only about half a bag would be required to do an 8 square meter area. Mortars are often packaged in multi-wall bags that include a plastic layer to reduce the infiltration of water vapor. Mortar, like any cement-based product, will absorb moisture from the air and degrade over time. Two layers of plastic bags tightly sealed with twist ties will keep leftover mortar fresh for future projects.
Q:what is r.h cement & what is the grade of it?
For Rapid Hardening Cement ,grading is similar to O.P. cement(ordinary Portland cement) is M15,M20 is same. only initial final setting time is less.Strength of 28 days is considered for testing /Mix Designing.
Q:why must you use cement board under ceramic tile?
Hey almost right! Backerboard is for strength and adhesion Contrary to popular belief, it's not waterproof, so don't expect it to be. Tile needs a firm base so it won't crack or come detached. You do still need a solid floor under it. Over concrete, it's not needed. You can also use a product called Ditra which is a plastic that can go over most surfaces. Stay away from Hardibacker. It's too rigid and has a tendency to leave voids between it and the subfloor.

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