• GRC Fiberglass Water Dispersed Chopped Strand System 1
GRC Fiberglass Water Dispersed Chopped Strand

GRC Fiberglass Water Dispersed Chopped Strand

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Specifications

GRC Fiberglass Water Dispersed Chopped Strand is used for surface crack-proof of GRC products.

Product codeStrand tex(tex)Filament dia(μm)Moisture content(%) Size content(%) Breaking Strength(N/tex) Zirconia Content(%)
ARC15-98-(3-30mm)D 98 15 <0.50.6-1.0 ≥ 0.28 ≥ 14.5%
ARC11-50-(3-30mm)HD 5011<0.50.6-1.0≥ 0.30 ≥ 16.5%

GRC Fiberglass Water Dispersed Chopped Strand

Our alkali resistant fiberglass water dispersed chopped strand applied with water-dispersed size, the strand will disperse well to filaments in water in10 seconds, and also disperse fast, appliance amount less, enlarge strength.

It is typically used in a small amount to prevent cracking and to improve the performance of ready mix concrete, gypsum or other special mortar mixes. It can be used for surface crack - proof of GRC products.

Properties:

Disperse fast, low dosages, harmless.

Package and Storage

Package:

20kgs/kraft bag, 50 bags/pallet, 20 pallets/20'FCL(on 2 levels), total net weight for approximately 18 tons.

Other packing methods are available, according to customers' requirements.

Storage:

AR fiberglass water dispersed chopped strand should be stored dry in their original package, the best conditions being at a temperature of between 15 and 35, and at a relative humidity of between 35 and 65%. If the product is stored at low temperature (below 15), it is advisable to condition in the workshop for 24 hours before use to prevent condensation.

Q:I'm considering using hydraulic cement to stop my basement from leaking, We would like to finish it someday but want to make sure it won't leak later and cause more problems. Is it better to apply to the inside wall of the foundation or to dig around the house and apply to the outside? We don't have any obvious huge cracks that we've seen yet. Has anyone used hydraulic cement and have any tips/advice? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Use whatever you want, do whatever you want to with it. You have to fix the UNDERLYING problem first. Why is your basement leaking? Answer that question and we can help you more. Poor drainage scheme? Busted gutters and downspouts? Spring? Broken DWV line? Busted water supply line? Well? Find out the damn problem before trying to fix the symptom. You will be lots happier.
Q:How can I stop my home entrance stairs from squeeking? It consists of wood rails with cement steps.?
The cement treads can move slightly within the wooden railings, so, either tighten (very) the bolts holding the concrete to the rails, or spray a minute amount of silicon around the bolts ... Kindest John
Q:cement?a. 150 poundsb. 100 pounds c. 50 poundsd. 112.5 pounds
50 pounds
Q:apparently fault breccia is a cataclasite, which are cemented rocks. However, my notes say that fault breccia consists of angular fragments set in an un-cemented matrix of wall-rock material.
Pressure is the key factor in the formation of a fault breccia. The term breccia is used to describe the coarser grained types. Much finer fault zone rocks are actually clay sized particles. These can be lithified by pressure (no cement). Mylonites would be an example. Perhaps the rocks in question are a combination of the two. (?)
Q:I'm doing a project wich required me to calculate the transfer rate of Barite Cement from tanks to tanks. I've run couple of calculation but i'm not sure it is the correct one or not. Please advise.
Cement is normally a dry powder if the system is a screw the rpm x the screw pitch volume will get you there. If you used a forced eductor use the ACFM x percent of flow /air per cent If you used a vac system and had head and lift and pipe loss and lots of other losses. Just add up all that and get a feasible answer..when you ask get specific... From the E
Q:I am building a shower an i have don all the plumbing and have put down my pvc 40 mil liner. I do not know what cement to use and how to mix it for my pan so I can lay my till.
first you need to ensure you have a tile-in shower drain installed, it is made up ofrom 3 pcs. only install lower section first,has 4 bolts atatching it. Ensure fin el. of drain flange will match tile... now using appr 5 bags of PRE-MIX concrete (60#) mix with water to plastic consistancy. Lay concrete over a layer of bldg paper if installing oupon a wooden subfloor or directly on slab floor. do not place mud on drain flange yet...allow app 1/4 per ft slope toward drain. turn up parimeter appr 4 or equal to curb height @ entrance When concrete set place rubber pan liner over entire shower floor, incl drain flange, and cut large enough to run app 8 up on all walls over entrace curb. Fold Slice inside corners to fit appliing PVC Cement to all mating surfaces, attach top edges to wall studs with gal roofing nails as needed. Now cut out liner that is blocking drain flange weep holes leeving enough material to be pinched between upper lower halves. bolt upper section on now. Make sure you block drain to prevent debri from falling in. A 2 test plug does best. Mark a level line @ the same level as curb if floor tile different from wall. Drywall screws lightly screwed into studs work well. very important to tile job that it is level all the wal around... Now using appr 3-4 bags of Pre-Mix Morter ( 60#) mixed with only enough water to dampen the mix (called Dry set) spread appr 1 1/2 bed of dryset over liner Allow room for thinset morter tile thickness. Tamp dryset with a swimming pool trowel (round ends) by slapping mud aggressively and smoothto proper grading towards drain. Very Important to get surface slope as uniform as possible, without any ridges or lumps which will interfere with drainage and can cause tile to set irregularly.
Q:a concrete ix requires 3 parts sand and 5 parts cement.how many pounds of cement are needed for 75 pounds of sand?
Cement : sand = 5 : 3 So 3 parts = 75 pounds So 1 part = 25 pounds Thus cement needed = 5 parts = 125 pounds
Q:Ferro-cement was the quot;inquot; material to make a boat hull from, and my father was quite taken with the idea behind it. Time and my father have passed, and I am wondering if it is still a viable building material. thank you for your responses.
If made by a professional, the concrete hull has lots of advantages over its FRP cousin. The concrete gets harder as time goes on. The first one made in the 1860's is still afloat. Cement does not blister or delaminate. The weight can be a read advantage when sailing in choppy seas as it will plow through waves that will stop a lighter vessel. If one should encounter a situation that would hole a FRP vessel, the ferro will cave in like an eggshell. Kick it back in shape, slap some fresh cement on it and off you go. Down side is dealing with marinas. They think that you will come flying into your slip and destroy the dock. As long as you are aware of your extra weight and adjust your maneuvers there should be no problems.
Q:Let's see if I can get the right. I have 12 cement columns which are three meters high (on third floor) and I want to put wooden columns on top of them 3 meters high. (fourth floor) The trusses will be on top of the wooden column. I'm concerned about how to connect the wooden columns to the cement columns so that they are stable and secure?
Are you sure they are cement and not fiberglass? Are they solid or hollow? You should maybe run the fourth floor joist out to the columns and put down some subfloor or decking material before adding the new columns. What are the diamiter of the 3rd floor columns? You need to determan the load bearing max on them. If they are fiberglass and 10 they should have a max load of around 10 thousand pounds per column. This should be ok. How far apart are the columns? This will also play into the wieght and how evenly it is distributed. Also check the load max on the new wood columns they will hold much less than the fiberglass.
Q:Im trying to remove my Backsplash! Old Tiles gone! Whats the best way to remove Cement Board without damaging my Drywall? I made a hole but need the best way to prevent more!
depending on how old the house is, the sheetrock could be different - past 5-6 years they have built better sheetrock (older sheetrock is more likely to crumble no matter what you do). First you have to see if it is glued, nailed or screwed on. If it is glued, you are better off replacing your sheetrock so you have a better substrate for your new backsplash. If nailed, it should come off easy, and if screwed, you can see the screws in order to back them out. Good luck - hope it works out.

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