Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1180.8
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A is one of the most popular color of LP Serie, which is one serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being good quality as well as the reasonable price compared with other suppliers.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface flatness as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A

Glazed Porcelain Tile Urban Series Dark Grey LP60A


 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 8 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1180.8 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.



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Q:What is the best material used to fix a bathtub tile?
Yes!! Scrape as much of the old glue away from the wall since anything you add will make the tile stick out farther than it did before. Next let it dry if its wet. Than apply some loctite adhesive to the back of the tile. Push the tile in until it is flush with the other tile. About four good size lines of glue will do it. Around the edges and then 4 vertical lines. This will allow the glue to expand and not hold the tile out. Wipe off any extra glue now . It hard to get off later. Let dry over night and than buy a matching grout to finish the job, Follow the instruction on the box. Good luck
Q:Things fade on the tiles how to get rid of
Tiles are often greasy, rust, rust and other stains, especially the tiles at the junction more easily filth. In order to keep the porcelain surface clean and not damage the porcelain surface bright, you can use multi-functional cleaning paste for cleaning. Tile cracks, you should first use a toothbrush dipped in a little detergent to remove dirt, and then at the gap with a brush brush can be a waterproof agent, so that not only can prevent water and can mold growth. Daily cleaning and maintenance of tiles, the first tile on all the stains thoroughly cleaned, if the glue or sticky, the neutral detergent can be used with 3M scouring rub. Place the floor cleaning agent (please use it according to the instructions) and sprinkle it on the floor tiles, rubbing the stains on the tiles with a waxing machine. And then water-based wax into a dry dry mop, the wax evenly coated on the floor can be.
Q:Installing beadboard over ceramic tile?
This Site Might Help You. RE: Installing beadboard over ceramic tile? We‘re renovating an old house, and the ceramic tile on the bathroom walls is just awful. I‘d like to replace the wall tile with beadboard. The tiles appear to be mortared directly onto the drywall. Is it a good idea to install the beadboard directly over the ceramic tile? Or should we...
Q:what should I use to clean my bathroom tiles?
tile lab makes a heavy duty cleaner and stripper for tiles you can try that.
Q:replacing loose tile+-?
The thin floor tiles? Sometimes you can heat the tile back and floor with a hair drier then stick them back in place one by one. If that doesn't work then carry a tile to a flooring outlet and ask them what to use and do. There's different types of adhesives. Some can be re-activated with heat while others need to be removed then a fresh application trowled on.
Q:Can I lay linoleum over asbestos tile in the basement?
Sure you can lay linoleum over the tile, but instead of removing the loose tile I suggest you glue them back. Liquid Nails will do the job. By all means ware a mask while working with the asbestos tile. Be careful about what type linoleum you buy because it can have some asbestos in it, but not at a hazardous amount. Go to the web page below its very informative. Ever who you get the linoleum from make sure you tell them what you are applying it to. Be sure to ask about what type of notched trowel to use and the mystic. If there are large seams between the tile make sure you get enough mystic down into them so you want see their indention's when the mystic drys and shrinks. To really be safe cover over the tile with 1/4 or 3/8 inch ply then put your linoleum down.
Q:Ceramic tile or concrete under linoleum?
you should remove the linoleum before putting down the ceramic tile. you are able to tile over the linoleum, yet you want to make very certain it really is completely stuck to the concrete, wiped clean very thoroughly and etched so the skinny-set has some thing to adhere to. it really is a small section? remove the linoleum.
Q:I am going to be using a self stick floor tile in a mobile home. What can I use under it as a vapor barrier?
I just replaced the bulk of my mobile home flooring with 12x12 self stick tile from Fred's.... 1. Take off the old flooring (Carpet or tile.) and get it back to bare wood (Plywood)..... 2. Repair any bad sections of old plywood... 3. Level any joints between patches and any nail heads (I use drywall screws...A lot better hold and faster to put in when using a drill.)... Also the best patching material is Bondo...The wood filler takes forever to dry and will not form a Strong surface...Bondo drys to HARD plastic within 15 minutes...And is very easy to sand or form with a Bondo file... Be sure that everything is smooth or any hail heads or depressions will show under the tile later on... (Bondo also hold up better in wet areas like the bathroom) Pop a chalk line down the center of the room and start putting the tile down from this center line...Its not as noticeable to have something slightly off along the wall line as it it in the center of the room...Also when you get to the walls or in those little tight areas you will want to measure and cut some of the tiles....To do this you need to measure where the tile is to be cut (Remember the arrow direction) then lay the tile over an old piece of tile (So you dont cut the good flooring) and using a steel straight edge and a knife scribe a line...Then bend the tile along the line and it will break cleanly along the line.. Pay attention to the arrows on the back of the tile and always point them toward the same direction... This makes the pattern come out right... The glue on the tiles will hold them in place if the floor surface is clean and dry... If the energy blanket under the home is gone it will still take YEARS to do any damage to the new plywood floor that you replaced...
Q:What is the tile?
The so-called tiles are made of refractory metal oxides and semi-metallic oxides, through the process of grinding, mixing, pressing, glazing, sintering, and forming an acid-resistant ceramic or stone building , Collectively referred to as tiles. The raw materials are mostly made of clay, quartz sand and so on.
Q:Questions about laying slate tile?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

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