• Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1105.92
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24 is one of the most popular color of COTTON ILLUSION series, which is one serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in our portfolio. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its anti slippery.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile, Color Body

  Only Grade AA available

         Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Plywood Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Rupture Modulus:  35 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

        Slip-resistance: From R9 to R13

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 32 Ctns/Pallet, 768 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1105.92m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24

Glazed Porcelain Tile COTTON ILLUSION Serie BROWN VISION CIBV24


FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 8 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1105.92 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers. 



Q:are tiles get really dirty fast and i tried everything and i cant get them to stay white could i use bleach?
If they're a natural rock, like travertine, use Tilex and scrub them with a stiff plastic bristled brush. Use a cloth with hot water and a mild detergent to take up the excess Tilex. Then put down a tile sealer after it's dried. This will keep them from getting dirty again so fast. If they're ceramic and have hard water stains or whatever on them, you can use Tilex for the grout and CLR on the surface. Put a moist cloth down and pour the CLR over it to let it soak for about 15 minutes. The hard water stains should soften and come up easily. BTW - if this is a mildew problem (like in a shower or around a bath tub), don't use bleach. For some reason, even though it kills the mildew initially, it actually fosters the return of the mildew quickly.
Q:A few tiles in my building flat give a cracking noise when i step on them.Upon inspection i found that the tiles make cracking sound even when i press them with my hands but requires some strength.There is a small airgap in a few joints but the gap is very small.The tiles were installed almost 15 years ago and i dont know how old the building is but is considered an earthquake proof structure.The cracking sound is sometimes even for as long as 1-2 seconds when standing on it.So is it a lose tile or a foundation crack?
loose tile re glue it
Q:How do you show how to tile the plane?For example, if you use ‘+‘ (the plus shape)Do you merge/group the pluses ‘+‘ together to form a ‘+‘ plus shape again?Is that what tiling the plane means?Also, I am asked to determine all the basic rigid symmetries of this tiling (i.e. all shifts, flips and rotations). Do all three cases arise? No right? Just the shifts one?Then they also ask: Does this tiling have any symmetries of scale? (My question: How would you know this?)Thanks guys!Appreciate all your help.
BA AAAB BABBBA <---Top of A cross is right of middle of B cross! ABABAAAB BAAABABB BBABBBAB This pattern continues in both directions indefinitely. This forms a staircase which is two letters wide and one letter drop at each step. these can fit together perfectly. What I described has a natural 2 right-1 down pattern (from center of cross to center of cross) and a 1 right- 2 up pattern. The slopes of -1/2 versus 2 are perpendicular to one another, but do not give reflective possibilities (I don't think). Rotations by 90 degrees and slides do occur and I think these are all possibilities. The rotations can be centered at several points.
Q:I wanted to do wall tiles with them. They are clear but I wanted to add color as well. Any ideas? I love decorating for less. Thank you.
=== 1st the wall tiles or any tile needs to have the porous back to apply the grout and adhere to both surfaces ==== and no you cannot use glass... it will fall off the wall and even if you paint the back side of the glass it still will not work... if you
Q:I am building a deck outside my living room am#92;nd the dimensions are 8‘ wide by 24‘ long.It is 14‘ up at the highest point as I am on a hill. I‘m using 2 by 6 joists with 2 by 12 headers. Here is what I want to do: someone told me to use a 1/4 in slope over 8 ft. for water run off. I want to tile the deck. Iwant to know what size plywood I should use and if there is some kind of waterproof fibreboard I can use as a base for the tile in lieu of laying down rubber for the base. I dont want sand or pitch due to the weight factor. Is there something fairly lightweight and waterproof suitable for a base for the tile? If so what is it called? and where can i get it? Thanks.
In my opinion the installing of tile over a wooden deck will probably not stand the test of time, because no matter how well you water-proof it, moisture will eventually rot out your wooden support, causing the tile to sag, crack, or break. The moisture may not come from the top as it will be absorbed into the wood from below the deck. If you have your heart set on this and you're willing to replace it all one day, I'd waterproof the deck first. There is a marvelous liquid rubber-like liquid called Red guard that can be painted on with a brush- cover it well and don't miss any spots. When dry, screw down some concrete backer board- it comes in 3 by 5 sheets, and you'll probably be better off to use 1/2 inch thick goods, as you need the support and non-flexibility of the thicker goods. If I were doing it, I'd coat this finished installation with Red guard too, and let it dry before you start setting the tile.Make sure to use exterior grade thinset mortar the best quality you can afford, and make sure you get tile suited for exterior applications, because there is a difference. I think the most important thing that should be mentioned is that your deck needs to be very strong to support all this extra weight that will be placed on it-beef it up extra if you intend to do this. Best of luck!!
Q:I have a basement about 25X25 does anyone know how much it would cost to put vinyl tile down?
The self adhesive vinyl tile, which you can do yourself costs anywhere from 89cents to 99cents at home depot. Figure any where from $560-$620 as an average price. Good luck on your project!
Q:I want to lay tile in my mobile home, and I want a cheaper alternative to wonderboard for the tile that I want to install. My home is on a concrete foundation tied down and the flooring is solid I‘m just concerned with the tile not sticking to the osb plywood. Any serious answers would be appreciated
Luan is a good alternative if its going to be on the floor. it might be a good idea to put a primer down as well.
Q:Can I apply ceramic tile to my bedroom that is on the 2nd floor?My parents are saying I can‘t because the tile will weigh the floor down over timeIs there any danger in putting tile on a 2nd floor?
Weight is not an issue. Homes are designed to carry 40 or more pounds per square foot. Tile is not much heavier that other flooring surfaces such as carpet or hardwood so will not tax the structure at all. The current sub floor is probably not stiff enough for tile so adding an underlayment is probably a good idea. Whether this is a good idea is another matter altogether. Tile is a decidedly unfriendly surface for a bedroom. It is hard and cold. Drop something like a glass on it and you have a mess and nothing is colder to the foot except granite. I would not tile my bedroom and having it tiled is likely to make selling the house more difficult.
Q:hi i live in a upstairs flat,and i want to tile my hall with ceramic tiles,i did a square 4 foot patch to see if the tile would stick or would come loose,well they did come loose,so how do i prepare floorboards for tiling over so the grout wont crack when i walk on the floor thanks
Any tile laid on a flexible base is doomed to early failure. If you are unwilling to pull up the wood floor, do enough structural change and put down a stiff underlayment, put down a flexible floor such as carpet or vinyl.
Q:I‘m remodeling my kitchen and there is ugly floor to ceiling wall tile. My contractor says can‘t put up drywall without reframing (which would be expensive). So does anyone have suggestion on what to do with this wall?
If the tiles are on a villa board just rip it off the studs and take out any nails or screws so the drywall can just be fixed straight onto the studs. First you have to knock one of the tiles off, since that walls is being redone this won't upset the apple cart. Just be care when taking off the tile, because I was doing the same things years ago and I hit a tile with a hammer and it shattered sending bits of razor sharp tile fly one cutting my arm, wear eye protection and put something like a towel over the tile so it won't fly everywhere. Once you've knock off a tile if there's board behind it you're in luck, just continue doing as you got the first tile off and clear the studs of anything that will get in the way of the sheetrock. If not you'll need to batten the wall out to take the sheetrock as your contractor said Well depending on what you intend to do with the wall, will you re-tile? If you intend to re-tile just use a chisel and carefully knock them off the wall taking as much of the tile mortar off as you can, it doesn't matter if there's a little unevenness, but you can't have high spots all over the wall, because if you re-tile the high spot will cause the tile to ride on ithe high spots making it hard to tile, if it's just a little the tile compound/mortar will even out around it during tiling. I'd take anything higher than 1/8 off using a Scutch Hammer. ...

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