Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series DECOR2

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series DECOR2 is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas.Glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile,

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing


Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series DECOR2

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series DECOR2

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. 

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers

 

4. What exhibition we joined?

——  Canton Fair (every year)

 

5. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles? 

—— Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. 

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Q:laying porcelain tiles, can anyone help?
Your best answer will be on the tile boxes or on the bags of thinset. Generally you need a 1' subfloor, 1 1/4 being better. Most tile setters like small grout lines with this type of tile using toothpicks as spacers. Using the latex admix will help with expansion and contraction cracking. Keep the installation area well above freezing before, during and until cured, also do not let it get excessively low in humidity, as this will cause cracking from drying too fast. Always work your way out of an area, to avoid walking on freshly laid tile. Every so often pick up a just laid tile and check for 90%+ coverage of adhesive. Try to avoid getting any thinset on the face of the tile, as it may stain it. Use non sanded grout. If you have any specific questions, email me
Q:Victorian Tiles - What Varnish/Sealant?
Most tile have a glazed finish so unless it dose not have it,it will be difficult to seal.You don`t mention wheat her its wall or floor tiles,if it wall tiles you might get away with it.If it floor tiles I think it will cause a problem by walk over it.
Q:Help with tiling on walls?
It's a great look you are going to love it!! Here's what I know. Buy the triangular wedges type spacers. The will hold the tiles up in position better than the X type. you pull these out once the tile is set. Be sure that you start your accent pieces directly 1/2 space over from your tiles, you don't want the lines to accidentally match up, that just blows the whole line appeal out of the park. So cut your first accent so that it ends in the middle of your lower tile. That should give you the proper off set. Be sure to use mastic especially designed for wall applications. Standing up on the wall, it must be more stiff from the start than your flat surfaces. Same goes for the grout, mix it just a tad more firm than you'd like to work with, it will stay up better. Nothing worse than the grout running down. That's all I know. I've done it a few times and am always so proud. What a savings!!
Q:What is the best tiles?
Champion, Dongpeng Tiles, Nobel Tiles, Mona Lisa Tiles, Marco Polo Tiles and other top ten brands Not the best, only the most appropriate, different parts of the selection, the characteristics of different tiles, there is no need to be the best, neither economic nor nicely suitable for paving parts
Q:Does the tiles have radiation?
The tile surface has a glazed surface. With a certain degree of radiation. Tiles appear on the market are generally very small radiation. Radiation is big for some marble and artificial stone
Q:Would it cost less to put a fiberglass shower in or tile it with cheaper 1$ tile?
If you are doing the tile work yourself, it will be cheaper than having one of those fiberglass shower enclosures put in. You are looking at the cost of tile (at $1/sqft.), grout ($10 or less), permabase/durock ($9 per 3x5 sheet), mastic ($30 for high quality), and caulk ($4), to get the job done. On an average size shower, this will bring your total material bill in at right around $200. This is based on entirely ripping out your old shower walls (back to the studs), and building an entirely new shower. A complete rennovation for $200. This is what I do for a living, and I can honestly tell you that you will save tons if you are handy enough to do this yourself. One side note on the pre-fab showers (fiberglass, urethane, etc) - we get a lot of calls to come out and remove mold from these types of enclosures. On most that I've seen there are a lot of corners and small nooks that moisture gathers up and sits in. Just something to watch out for should you go that method. Good luck to you, either way.
Q:Where can I buy Carolina Clay 12x12 ceramic tile?
Custom Petroglyph Ceramic Tile I photograph images of petroglyphs at southwest rock art sites and then carve detailed petroglyph replicas into ceramic tile for installation in your home or office. The samples of southwestern decor tiles shown here are selected for contrast between the color of the tile's outer glaze and the tile core material. The color of the image will be the same color as the interior of the tile, which is usually the same color as the back of the tile. The tile show on this page is tile that I thought attractive. Since there are thousands of different tiles available from hundreds of manufacturers, most of the tile I carve is purchased by the customer, sent to me for carving and then sent back to the customer.
Q:ceramic tile?
Sorry to disagree with almost everyone, but, the two main purposes of grout are waterproofing and keeping a straightt and level run on the tile. Tile adhesive (for walls) is more the enough to hold a tile in place for a very long time (I tiled behind my fridge more than a decade ago and never got around to grouting). With that being said, you can use any width grout line you like. The thinner the line, the harder it is to keep your run straight and your tiles level to each other. Without a grout line, water can seep behind the tile and damage your wall (or sub floor). Even the most perfectly laid tiles done by a master tile layer will have a grout line. The best laid marble has a grout line of 1/16 th of an inch. That is VERY difficult to do right. Good Luck
Q:tile back splash?
Oooh! Oooh! I saw something about this last weekend on the DIY channel, and I plan on doing it, myself, in our kitchen, too! I scribbled notes while I watched--here's what I've got: Measure the space for the backsplash. If you are tiling over an uneven surface (like over old tile) you will have to create a smooth surface over what you have. To do that, you will need to install some trim to the uneven surface of the wall for studding to provide a place to affix backer board, and then affix backer board over that trim. That will give you an even surface for your new tile. I don't have notes on thype of wood or measurements for that studding, but if you ask at your hardware store, which is what I will need to do, I'm sure they can guide on that. You fasten the studding to the wall along the top and the bottom of your area to be tiled, and then in between those top and bottom studs at intervals sufficient to support your backer board without buckling when you press on it. Maybe the hardware store can advise on that distance, or you can just test it as you go. You fasten the studs to the wall with a nail gun, and then the backer board to the studs with a nail gun. Now you've got a new surface. Next, spread your plaster onto the backer board. I'm assuming you are buying your new tiles in sheets. Set your sheets of tile onto the plaster (don't remove the fronting paper from the tiles yet), starting in the center/bottom and working out, and up. When the tile is set, use a damp sponge to wet the fronting paper and peel that off gently. Now mix your grout, and apply that over the tile with a trowel. Wipe excess group from the tile faces, but be sure not to wipe away from between the tiles. You are finished! Luckily, the space for my backsplash is a rectangle without any oddly shaped areas besides that. I know I can do this, with some advice from the people at my hardware store. Hey: We can DO this!!!! Good luck!
Q:Porcelain tile cleaning help, please...?
Hello, I agreed to what Bob said. One thing I want to add that is to hire professionals. I am doing so and got safe results.

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