• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6835 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6835 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6835

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6835

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-Y6835 is one of the popular colors in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly used in Europe, North America and Middle East.  

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

   Grade AAA available only

   Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm.

  Strict quality control system for monitoring water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance as well as packing.

  More competitive prices in China supplying market

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

  For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6835

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6835

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?

—— For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, which makes the surface feel matt or rough, while the surface of polished porcelain tile is glossy and smooth.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

 

4.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

5.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

6.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

Q:Just how long the renovation of the new house, my home bathroom tiles on the ground as long as the bath will be seepage, the investigation of the pipeline without problems, leaks are no problems, where the problem? Urgent to be resolved.
You say is the bath water up to it! This is because the water can not flow in time when the water or water from the wall tiles and seepage, the ground tile pavement is empty shop, so the water will go back! If it is water infiltration, it goes without saying that waterproof is not done!
Q:What are the brands of tiles?
Second-rate brand: The United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, the United States, The United States and Tao, the United States and Tao, Shun Hui, sublimation, Hilti, Samite, St. Pottery Square, the United States and the United States, the United States and the United States, Shiwan, special high special, Wales, Williamton, the king, Xinghui, Xinliwan, the new South Yue, Yu Jing, Yashi GAO Fu ceramics, etc.
Q:How to remove the 502 glue on the tile
There is water! Find a small piece of cloth with cloth sticky water deposited on the above just fine! 502 generally 60 degrees + on the failure of the!
Q:We want to put ceramic tile on our front porch, its fully covered but we were told you had to put porceline tile outside not ceramic. Does anyone know or have you done this?
don't believe anyone who tells you that you have to put porcelean only outside. porcelean costs more, and that's a sale to them. my company has put many a ceramic tile outside, regardless of the type of weather an area receives, and have yet to have a problem. i strongly recommend a multi flex thinset, over a regular thinset, and please don't buy your thinset from home depot. if you would rather buy from lowes over a tile distributor, buy lowe's ultrafex II. it's a superior product. pick any tile you want, from any store you want, and put it on your porch. make sure the right thinset notch size is used. a tile up to 12 inches requires a 3/8 notch, a tile up to 18 inches requires a 1/2 notch, and anything over 20 inches requires a 3/4 notch. if the proper notch size is used, you shouldn't have any problems with cracking. if your area is subject to hard freezes in the winter, a little rubbing alcohol (not much, maybe a cup per bucketful) added to your thinset guarantees the thinset will never freeze. good luck!
Q:Sanding parquet floor tiles, advice please.My hall floor is covered in parquet tiles.The tiles themselves are made up on 1 inch by 5 inch sections, 5 to a tile.The tiles are laid so that the grain on the tiles is alternate and opposite its neighbour. So the grain on some go North-South, the next in line goes East-WestMy sander has a face larger than any one tile.Do I have to sand along the grain, in which case I‘d have to buy a tiny grinder, or can I just sand all over the tiles and not bother about sanding along the grain? Assuming I have sanded, how do I seal the completed job? Varnish?
complex stuff. seek using google and yahoo. it will help!
Q:i don‘t even know how to explain what i want to ask.. but here i go....how do you make sure they come out straight. i know how to lay them but how do you make sure the second row comes out straight at the other end. I guess i need help lining them. chalk line will help but how do i do it. is there a website or video that may help me. ((( i lay down the first row along the chalk straight line. i then lay down one half tile at the end of the first tile row. then i continue with the full tile so i can get a staggered look. but how do i make sure that the second row is dead on? help if you can thanks. also if you have any other advice for laying staggered floor tile let me know. thanks.20x20 Porcelain floor tile.
Staggered Tile Pattern
Q:Does anyone know how to refinish or paint ceramic tile? Or a website showing me how? Please help! =)
My okorder for info on that one. We did that years ago....and it works for a while. It is not a permanent solution however. I remember we had to clean it really good with TSP rinse, then sand it clean again with TSP rinse let dry, and then using I think an enamel paint to paint it. That takes awhile to dry too like a few days, and re-coat it. And let that dry for about 4 more days...It did work for a few months or longer as I remember....but we ultimately tore it out and re did the tile.
Q:My bathroom in my new house has the ugliest green tile halfway up the wall and then a different shade of green tile on the floor. My husband I have a little experierience with fixing stuff up, but this one has us puzzled. We want to tear the tile down and put up drywall. Then we‘d like to carpet the floor. We haven‘t got the nerve yet cause we don‘t know what to expect behind those tiles on the wall. Got ANY suggestions in my little dilemma???
Well, if you have a little experience, all u have to do is chisel off the tile, then just cut out the wall behind the tile too because it is either cement board, or it will have way too much glue behind it to even bother getting it all off. After the tile is gone, just cut a nice straight line and replace the wall behind the tile. You should more than likely need 1/2 inch drywall depending on the thickness or your original wall. Its not hard at all to do, so just grab a claw hammer and a chisel and have at it. The removal should only take an hour or 2 depending on the size of the room, and from there its all downhill. If you need help on doing the actual drywall, drop me a email and i'd be glad to help! Have at it, just make sure when knocking out the old wall not to hit any pipes!! Hope this helped! Good luck with your project!!!
Q:We will be tiling a backsplash directly onto drywall after our countertops are installed. My question is -- what do I do about the electrical outlets in that area? The tile is about 1/4 inch thick -- and I want the outlets even with the tile (right?) After I tile around the outlet openings, then how do you make them flush when you put everything back together? For example, do I just pull the sockets out so that the screw brackets sit on top of the tile? If so, then do I need to drill screw holes through the tile? If so, then how do I make sure that the tile does not break or crack?
There is a couple of ways to do this. First and easiest way it to tile the whole splash back and then fix the socket fronts direct over the tiles. The one problem with this is that there may be clearance behind the socket and the tiles (Tile joints etc). If you do go down this route the tiles over the socket points need to be cut to allow the cables to pass through and you will need to drill holes through the tiles to screw the socket covers on. Drilling tiles is very easy, use a high speed metal drill bit and using the highest speed on the drill drill slowly through the tiles. You can use masking tape over where the holes are to be drilled to stop the drill bit from wandering. The second way to do this is to fix the sockets directly into there wall backing plates and tile around them. If there is a height difference between the surface of the tile and the front of the socket you can play around with the socket backing plate using spacers behind the backing plate to bring it forward until flush. The big advantage of doing it this way is that the sockets and the tiles are flush and there is no issues with the seal behind the socket front. In my opinion it also looks a lot better.
Q:Im putting that peel-n-stick tile stuff in my new apartment over the stuff thats there (i dont know what its called but its like plastic kinda) is there any thing i have to do other then sweep before i put the new one down?
You don't have to remove the existing floor, but know that if it has a heavy textured pattern, that texture may show through on the new layer of tile. As suggested by the others, clean it thoroughly and use a product that will remove the wax coating from the existing floor. It should be dull in appearance once you've cleaned it.

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