Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-P6001
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 115.2
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
- Option:
- 600x600 mm
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Item specifice
Glazed Floor Tile:
Glazed Floor Tile
Product Brief Introduction
Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-P6001 is one of the popular colors in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly used in Europe, North America and Middle East.
Product Features
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile
Grade AAA available only
Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm.
Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet
Fast production arrangement
Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing
Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.
Product Specification
Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile
Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001
Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%
Breaking Strength: 》 1300 N
Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa
Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%
Edge Straightness: ±0.5%
Slip Resistance: 》 0.5
Resistance to Staining: Class 3.
Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)
For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl
Production Line & Package
FAQ
1. For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?
—— For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, which makes the surface feel matt or rough, while the surface of polished porcelain tile is glossy and smooth.
2. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?
—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.
3. For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?
—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.
4. Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?
—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.
- Q:Is $4 a square foot a good price for labor? How about $1.49 for each 20x20 porcelein tile? Those are my quotes and want to see if I should do it. In Texas and they told me it will include taking out old carpet and laying down tile plus grout.
- It sounds reasonable enough. ASk about sealing the tile, as well! Up here, in Canada, I usually recommend a waterproof membrane be laid before the tile. This prevents water and moisture from seeping through the tile and froming mold and mildew on the subfloor. Even the best sealed tile may have a tendancy to allow moisture to wick through and attack the subfloor. BUT...that's just me! I like to do the best job possible!! You may even want to consider underfloor electric heat. Now is the perfect time to do this. At any rate, to just rip out the carpet, prep the subfloor, and tile with Porcelain tile, I think you have a pretty fair price, there.
- Q:Okay, I‘m doing a tub surround with porcelain tile. Got the last cut around the fixtures that requires a hole to be cut in the center of the tile. Long story short, I‘ve busted 22 tiles trying. I‘ve tried every single drill bit I‘ve got. Everything from metal hole punchers to concrete bits. Nothing even scratches this porcelain tile. Any tips on how to punch a hole in this tile? I‘m desperate!
- Hi okorder It should take you directly to the page where they sell the bits you need. As you can see, they're available in several sizes. Again... don't cut a tile in half, it will show and look like handyman's work... we don't want that! Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions
- Q:Im applying going for a pre apprenticeship next month and I‘m not sure which one to choose from, electrician or wall and floor tiling? I think electrician pays more but you need to be a bit smarter the I am and I‘m afraid I won‘t do well. Or I could just to.. You know tiling not that hard. I‘m from Western Australia if that helps knowing the best jobs for my state. Thank you :)
- Tiling is very hard on your knees and back. I would go for the electrician job. In America heat and air conditioning pays the best by far. Good luck! Let us know what you decide.
- Q:We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?
- You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)
- Q:We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?
- I recently retiled my bathroom and checked the instructions for several backerboard manufacturers. They all recommended filling the seams with alkali resistant joint mesh and thinset mortar (or a similar product). I think the problem with just using grout is that there can be movement in the walls that may cause the seam eventually leak water. I would try to tape/mortar the seams.
- Q:How can i get hair dye stains off tiled flooring?
- You may not. Talked to hair dresser last week about that and she said they have to keep a coating over their floors....not ceramic but vinyl, else wise the stains penetrate and won't come out. If the stain is in the grout or a non smooth tile, unless they had been recently sealed, it has probably penetrated. Try bleach, if that doesn't work, clean up and try hydrogen peroxide with a few drops of ammonia..........NO BLEACH RESIDUE or else you'll gas yourself with chlorine gas. Hydrogen peroxide and ammonia was what was used to bleach hair before advent of commercial lighteners.
- Q:I had a person re-grout the 4 tiles years ago. That person was a dufus and left some grout on the tiles instead of just in the grooves.. It is still there! How could I remove the small patches of grout from the front of the white tiles? As a point of information, the repair guy messed up by grouting ALL of the tiles when he first started. The grout drys so fast that it set up hard before it could be struck and finished and the excess washed off. The tile setter guy is supposed to do just a very few tiles at a time.
- Hopefully, all of your tiles have grout AND sealer. You can try plain ol' scrapping it off, but be careful not to scratch the tiles. Try using white vinegar to soften the grout, but be sure not to get any on the grout that you want to save. Use a small sponge, or even Q-tips. You may have to let it soak a few minutes. Also, try using a plastic scraper instead of a metal one, like a pan scraper. If you have any spare tiles, practice scraping to see if you're scratching the tile.
- Q:We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.
- If the kitchen is big enough move the fridge after you have found the center of the room, set the the quadrant with the fridge first using speed set or quick set for that area. then tile as much as you can without ruining your path for the fridge. after 3 hours mix just enough and grout only where the fridge will cover because that grout may turn a different shade than the rest of the room. next day finish setting your tile, next day grout the rest of the job, replace 1/4 round, and you have a finished product provided you layed the tile on an approved substrate, cut your jambs and mixed your setting materials properly.
- Q:THis will be done in the powder room. Also, I am planning not to use backerboard because the tiles will be 9 x 12
- I recently tiled a room of approximately the same size. Not including the cost of the tile, it cost about $150.00. I used quick set, which costs about $40 per tub. One tub, if used properly, should be enough. If the floor on which you are installing the tile is not concrete, you should stronly consider using the backing board. This will help reduce the chances of the grout, and tile from cracking. If installed on a wooden (plywood) floor, the floor can flex, resulting in cracking of the tile and grout.
- Q:I have 12x12 tiles in my kitchen on the floor and about 5 of them are cracked/damaged. How hard is it to replace them, can I do it myslef or hire a professional? What materials will be needed?
- It's not difficult but it takes some strength and patience. You'll have to break off the damaged tiles and chip the mortar (cement like stuff) until it is flat and even. You can use a chisel for this since it's a small surface. Take out the grout around the tile as well. Then you'll need some mortar, the replacement tile, and grout (color need to match existing grout). Place the prepared mortar on the square using a trowel and lay the tile on it - make sure the tile is even with the existing flooring. If it sinks too low, add mortar, if it pops up too high, take out excess mortar. Then wait 24 hours and then apply the prepared grout over the tile using a rubber float. Scrub clean with wet sponge - might take several times to get the grout film off the tile surface. Wait another 24 hours for the grout to set before walking on it. All done.
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Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-P6001
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 115.2
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
- Option:
- 600x600 mm
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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