Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXF3001

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1683 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAXF3001 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on glazing, water absorption rate as well as color shade and straigtness

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXF3001

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXF3001

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXF3001

 

FAQ

1.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit?

2.    For Glazed Floor Tile, is the 40*40 available?

—— Yes, 40*40 is available. Based on the actual market demand, we could also supply 45*45 and 50*50 accordingly.

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

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Q:labor cost for installing 50 quare feet of tile?
shouldnt be know more then 125 - 150
Q:cleaning a kitchen tile back splash?
Is it practical to remove some of the grout,apply new grout and apply a sealant before using the area? The other suggestions given may clean the grout ,but the problem will keep recurring.
Q:difference in porclean, glazed, homogenized floor tiles?
In a home setting it rally doesn t matter what you use. They ll all out last us if they are properly set. And setting is the key from the floor prep to the glueing of the tile with thin set. Two basic type of porcelains, full bodied porcelains where the color goes through out. The backing is basically the same colored as the front. Then you have glazed porcelains where the tile body is porcelain , the porcelain is baked, there is a color or pattern on the surface and then a glaze is applied. Then there is the standard clay bodied tile where the clay is baked , a color on the surface and a glaze and its refired again. Homogenized tiles, and I m not over familiar with them is a very hard tile that has a very low water absorption rate. All are good products but clay tiles are not as true in sizing as most ( not all) porcelains . Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:Porcelein or ceramic tile---which is better to use on a kitchen floor?
countertops are going more tile or granite anymore. depends on your taste and style your looking to achieve. if you are wanting a more expensive look, go for porcelein. very nice tile. if you have animals, dogs, i would not go with a white grout or a white floor. tile is less expensive in price but porcelein in rich looking.
Q:can i use porcelain tile in the shower?
Try a sealant. We had to seal our stone tile as it was asorbing water. Since then, it has been great.
Q:removing commercial tile?
if it's ceramic/porcelain, go to home depot. Rent a hilti jackhammer with 2 different bits (they'll know which ones to give you). one is a narrow chisel that pops the tiles up. the other is a wide blade that will remove thinset. sometimes the wide blade works good for removing the tile, also. whichever works best for YOU. They will explain how to use it. It is WAY easy to use and you will NOT regret it! You will want to plastic off areas that you are not removing tile completely, there will be dust. good luck! don't be cheap and buy the handscraper! you'll hate yourself.
Q:Tile question?
You can have the grout lines small but the trick is to seal the grout a week after you install it. You can reseal the grout a few times a year to keep it up. Also, business is slow right now so you might want to consider granite. There are a lot of granite, tile and marble people looking for jobs. Not, Lowes or Home Depot -Call around to some granite marble places and get referrals. I had granite put in 2 years ago and absolutely love it!!!
Q:Do I need a vapor barrier when installing ceramic floor tile?
YIKES!! Even in the High Desert of California, there is moisture underground. But, getting to your question: a) If your pad was poured over a vapor barrier (visqueen, typically), you do not need to add anything new *as a vapor barrier*. b) It cannot hurt to install a sealer on top of the concrete before you install new tile in any case. That will reduce the dusting in any case. c) But I am thinking that the felt paper you found was installed as a strain-relief rather than a vapor-barrier. It allows the tile to move differently than the concrete slab. This becomes important if there are extreme changes in outside temperature - which penetrates the edges of the slab and varies with the time-of-day - with relatively constant temperature inside. If the tile is bonded directly to the concrete as those temperature changes take place it will begin to spall and separate - not good as even a few fractions of an inch of difference will be enough to break the bond between the tile and the concrete. Were it up to me, I would install a strain-relief (AKA underlayment) with the new tile. There are liquid applications (Laticrete) and sheet goods (Durock) which come to mind and are very effective as a bond-breaker yet give a solid, reliable surface to hold the tile. These are only two of many and are linked below.
Q:How to remove tile?
If it where on drywall, I would take off the drywall - gut down to the studs. If its on plaster, get a wide chisel and hammer away...Sometimes a 6 drywall knife works to srape off tile then you have some drywall repair- skim coating. Hopefully, for your sake, the tile is on drywall - a newer home...
Q:Where can I get ceramic floor tiles to match what I have?
If it is possible take out one or part of the tile and take it to your local flooring store to see if they can match it or even check at your local restore to see if they have any of them the same color and size. I found that our restores have many items that are hard to find or outdated. Good luck

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