• Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXE3730 System 1
  • Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXE3730 System 2
Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXE3730

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXE3730

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1683 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAXET01 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on glazing, water absorption rate as well as color shade and straigtness

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

     Good Anti-Skidding, wear-resistance as well acid and alkali resistance.

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn

  1472 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20”Fcl. p

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXE3730

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAXE3730

FAQ

 

1.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For some special model, if its production is not arranged frequently, the MOQ is 5 containers.  

 

2.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit?

 

3.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as China Shipping, MSC, HPL etc.

 

Q:Right now the wall is horrible paneling, I am drywalling the house, but I really want one wall tiled with granite tiles. Would it be better to do this on the paneling or drywall? Will it be too heavy and rip the wall down? Is there a safe way to do this?
You could put hardybacker up right over the paneling, but personally I would remove the paneling first and then install the hardybacker. The backerboard will not absorb the moisture from the thinset or mastic like drywall and the paneling probably has a finish on it that won't bond very well. Are you meaning slate, as I have never seen anyone do a wall in granite but I suppose it could be done A slate accent wall is very reasonably priced at about 2.00 per foot, easy to do and when sealed with high gloss wet look sealer, can be quite impressive
Q:I have granite tiles I want to put on a kitchen countertop. I removed the laminate and underneath is about 1.5 thick of a particle board of some sort. The countertop is very sturdy and the board is in great shape. I know if this stuff get wet, you can have problems, but otherwise it seems to be very sturdy stuff. I know most people will say you need to put down a sheet of hardibacker, but I don‘t see the point. With a top grade thinset, these tiles will definitely adhere to the board extremely well. Grount lines will be extremely tiny and I‘m going to double seal everything with a really good sealer. I don‘t see anyway water is going to penetrate these tiles and thinset and get to the particle board. That‘s really the whole issue, right?
You can do that no problem. Particle board is a very stable material as long as it doesn't get and stay wet a long time. Make sure you seal the edges of the particle board (if you're not covering them with tile). That's the area that's most vulnerable to water damage because of water that drips off of the top of the counter. But I have to say....tile as a counter is outdated and tacky. Get with the program. Use solid granite or solid surfacing. Tiled counter tops are embarrassing.
Q:More specifically, do you lay the tile right against the floorboard with no groat visible? Or would you put a spacer in between the floorboard and the tile so that it you have grout along the edge?
It is honestly all up to the look you prefer. I for example always remove the baseboards and put a quarter inch space in between the tile and the wall (gives you a seamless result). In doing so, when you put the baseboards back on the wall - any mistakes are hidden - and the job just looks more complete. You can however go the route you are talking about (I've seen it done) - and personally I think that adding a grout line is the way to go - mainly b/c not all walls are square - and the likelihood of you having a seamless edge against the baseboard is slim. Good luck,
Q:Okay so i live in an apartment and i cant EVER get mant. out here to fix this... the stuff thats between the tiles is missing and it looks gross and then the white rubber stuff that sits between the tub and the tile is coming off in random places.... what is this stuff called and would i be able to fix this junk myself???The white stuff that connects the tubs looks like that white stuff they use to connect the base boards to the hardwood floor...
Ok, easy answers. Stuff between the tile = Grout Stuff that lines the space between tiles and tub = Silicone sealant. Its not hard to replace, especially if your just spot filling. Go to a home improvement store, ask to be shown to the selection of grout (Growt) and match the color. Also buy sealant for the grout, as it keeps the moisture out. As for the Silcone sealant, just take a safety knife, cut into it, peel it off like a strip. Make sure you clean up the area before you reapply. You will need a tube of silicone, a caulk gun, and a safety knife. Simply load the tube in the gun, and cut a 45 degree (ish) angle in the tip of the tube. Face the hole you cut into the area, and press the caulk gun trigger. Slowly move down the edge of the tub, until you reach the end. About 5 inches before you reach the end, behind the trigger, is a switch that releases pressure on the tube from the gun, and slows the flow to a stop. Once the grout dries, in about 24 hours, apply the sealant with the brush bottle it should come with. It is a clear coat. You CANNOT get the walls wet during this process, or else you will seal water inside your walls, and youll be looking at a much bigger job later.
Q:in the process of shopping i am coming across made in china flooring tiles, are these products durable, are they reliable, will there be a quaility issue with long term use? can anyone recommend a tile that is manufactered in the U.S.? there are so many different tiles on the market it is hard to choose, should we even be using a porcelean tile, what about vinyl sheet goods? this is a bathroom application..5‘ wide 7‘ deep
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Q:I was clowning around with my son and I accidentally knocked over a table and chipped a tile. It's about a quarter size chip.You can actually see the dark bottom part of the tile so its kinda deep. I was wondering if I can fix it without replacing it. What do I need? By the way, I blamed on my 4 year old !!!!!!!!! THX 4 ur help!
First of all, own up to the accident and apologize to your son and your wife! If you are lucky, you may be able to find some grout to match, that you can fill in the hole with. Go to your local tile store and see if they might have a Custom Blend Grout Chart or a ProSpec Grout chart that you can take home and see what color comes closest to the tile. Or you could try either brand in a sanded caulk in a tube. The only other choice is to replace the tile, which generally is hard to match! Or to place a piece of furniture or a rug, over the spot. That may not be best, depending on what part of the floor the spot is at!
Q:tiles to be applied in tub surround and ceiling
Glass manufactres in all cases recomend using a white thinset mortar with additive for proper bond strench. Some suggestions include Custom Building Products megaflex Ultimate Thinset Mortar and Versabond Latex Modified Thinset.
Q:I now want to match the tile and extend it into my living room and dining area. How would I go about finding the same tile?
yea take it to menards hd or lowes and ask the people in the flooring dept. if they have ever seen anything like it.
Q:The shiny surface ceramic tile is set unto a cement slab - it has been there 15 years or more with no cracks. Do I need to rough up the surface before I set the tile- if so how? I have tried sanding it (60 grit), wire brushing it - there is no effect on the surface. Also I live in a small town - we do have a Home Depot - do they sell a good bonding agent? If so what? Thank-you for your answer!
I have tiled porcelain over ceramic with long term results. make certain the surface is clean and free of any foreign matter, also use the best modified thin set available and u can also add a latex additive for added strength to the thin set.
Q:We just had tile intalled in our home. What products do you use (or recommend) to clean tile? On a regular basis? Spill/Accident basis?Also, can anyone recommend a good cordless sweeper (for tile of course)?
Depends on if your tile grout is white or colored. I wouldn't use bleach on colored grout. I would use an abrasive cleaner and a brush.

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