Glazed Floor Tile 300*300MM ITEM NO. CMAX3A489

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1683 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAX3A489 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on glazing, water absorption rate as well as color shade and straigtness

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300MM ITEM NO. CMAX3A489

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300MM ITEM NO. CMAX3A489

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300MM ITEM NO. CMAX3A489

 

FAQ

 

 

1.    For Glazed Floor Tile, is the 40*40 available?

       —— Yes, 40*40 is available. Based on the actual market demand, we could also supply 45*45 and 50*50 accordingly.

2.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.    

3.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

       —— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For some special model, if its production is not arranged frequently, the MOQ is 5 containers.

 

4.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit.

 

 

 

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Q:Cleaning and painting tile?
Do not use LimeAway! This product is an acid that will etch the glazing on the surface of the tile. This result is not repairable. The most safe and effective way to clean dirty tile and grout is to use a cleaner specifically designed for this use. Check a local floorcovering store, especially if there's one in your area that specialized in tile. Look for a heavy duty tile and grout cleaner, there should be several options available. Any kind of paint that I'm aware of is not a viable long term option. Paint will fail to penetrate the glaze of the tile, and therefore will be subject to wear fairly quickly.
Q:problem with my floor tile?
Are you talking about vinyl tile? If so, the old tile is probably discolored from age, and ware. There's nothing you can do about that, but you can take another old tile from a place that's not noticeable, like under a piece of furniture, and put it where you put the new one, then put the new one in the place where you removed the old one from, and it's not to noticeable. If you're talking about ceramic or clay tile, there may be a way to refinish the old ones to make them look new, but you'd have to check with a tile place to find out.
Q:Why are my ceramic floor tiles breaking up?
Tiles will crack for generally 3 reasons 1) Improperly prepared flooring - The floor needs to be sealed from moisture from below/exterior walls, and cleaned from any and all previous floor coverings (ie glues.residues from laminant or previous tiles). Highly recommended not to apply thinset to partical board or OSB as they call it here as the thinset aggravates the adhesives from the board. Best to use plywood. 2) Improperly applied tiles - There are specific thinsets for different floor coverings (ie, concrete flooring in basements, plywood, or even on top of existing ceramic floors) It is very important that the correct thinset is used, and that the application is uniform and complete underneath each and every tile. If there are air pockets under the tile, chances are very high they will break. 3) Cheap materials - You generally get what you pay for. Tiles at .60/sqft will break in your own hands. If you can snap the tile in 2 with your bare hands, how do you expect it to handle 200+ lbs. It sounds like it is possible that termites deminished the quality of the wood beneath the tiles, but you would be able to see yourself from the tile whether the tile let go from the thinset, or the thinset let go of the floor surface. If the bottom of the tile is caked with thinset, the problem is moisture in the floor (or your termites), if there is no thinset on the tile it was either not properly installed, or improper/poor thinset was used.
Q:Redoing tile in bathroom?
Using the 8x8 and figuring they are whole tile, there are 2.25 pcs of 8x8 in a s/f. 56 pcs divided by 2.25 is 24.88 s/f There are 1.17 s/f per 13x13 tile. 24.88 divided by 1.17 s/f is 21.36 pcs of 13x13 or a bare minimum or 22 pcs. The wall figures at 28 pcs divided by 2.25 is 12.44 pc or a minimum of 13 pcs of 12x12. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q:What are the dimensions of the tile?
Home kitchen and toilet ground are generally 300 * 300, the wall also has 300 * 300 300 * 450 300 * 600 400 * 800 according to the size of your space to choose
Q:How to make tiles reasonable
If you use the brick position without too much corner or triangular position, the basic loss is not great. If you have already paved, I suggest you, according to their own brick position, probably calculate the area and the number of brick, and then click on the actual number of good brick, calculate the loss rate, and master theory. If you do not shop, you can communicate with the master, do not straight, is the quality of brick problems, if it is material problems, looking for businesses to see,
Q:How to fix just one flooring tile?
I assume it's ceramic tiles, not vinyl? It's probably the wood subfloor or wood tile underlayment, you can use some wood screws underneath the floor to tighten the plywood to the floor joists. Of course, that might mean opening up the ceiling below, but that's probably easier to patch than the tile floor. Or, you remove some of the tile grout, and screw into the joist from above, then re-grout. That could be tricky- you need to know exactly where the floor joists are.
Q:What can you tell me about removing tile?
Start with a key hole saw, and saw all around the out side of the tile, cutting through the dry wall.After all the plumbing covers are removed, you can then start to use a pry bar and work the tile loose from the studs. This will work for tile over dry wall, over a backer board or even a mud job.. Cover the tub well, wear a dust mask and cover all areas for dust protection. Open a window if possible and set a fan there blowing dust out. Use hammer as little as possible to prevent razor sharp chips from flying and wear all safety gear, including long sleeve shirts, eye and ear protection. And most of all have the elbow grease ready. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:tile vs. hardwood floors?
Pros and Cons: 1)Porcelaine and ceramic tile are harder and will wear better with sand and water. However, you have grout to deal with (seal it and use the right cleaners and that wont be a big con) 2) Wood is beautiful and warm. It can warp with moisture, and scratch, especially with sand. Of course durability should be an issue, and it really depends on how much sand you will track in, and how much moisture will be on the floor. They do make some tiles that look like wood. One that is really nice is Interceramic's Timberland series. That might be a nice compromise.
Q:how ´to save by not hacking wall tiles..?
With all due respect, and after having installed multiple thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and applied thousands of gallons of paint, NEVER TO TILE. It's essentially glass. I see dozens of Q's asking, and as many answers stating it can be done. When I'm asked Can I? my response is usually Certainly I add, that one might not be satisfied with the result. In your case your options are few, now that the tile is already painted. Obviously touch up can be the first more economical of any choice. I wouldn't take a contract to paint tile, nor would I to install any peel and stick type of plastic. You could do a tub/shower enclosure over. You could use melamime or plastic sheet stock to cover. Without knowing your commitment to the house, or how long you intend to be there. With no offense in 5 years of ownership perhaps replacing might have been saved for. Just one opinion, but at some point, if the house was mine, and I intended to remain, I'd be pulling the old tile, adding concrete backer board, and re-do the bathroom. Steven Wolf

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