Gear Operated Lug Type Butterfly Valve

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Quick Details

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Structure: Butterfly

  • Pressure: Low Pressure

  • Power: Manual

  • Material: CI,DI,WCB,SS,etc.

  • Temperature of Media: Medium Temperature

  • Media: Water, Gas, Oil etc.

  • Port Size: DN50~1200mm

  • Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number: D7LT1X-10/16

Packaging Details:Standard export packaging: plywooden case, Or as per clients' requirements.
Delivery Detail:Within 15-30 days after receipt of L/C or deposit by T/T


3.different standards. line butterfly valve.
5.rubber/PTFE seat, soft sealed.


1.Small in size and light in weight. Easy installation and maintenance. It can be mounted wherever needed.

2.Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3.Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.

4.Long service life. Standing the test of thousands opening/closing operation.

5.Wide selection of materials, applicable for various media.


Design standard

Face to face

End flange

Test & inspection





ISO5752 series 20


DIN PN10/16/25

ANSI B 16.1


ISO PN10/16

JIS B 2212/2213

BS 10 table D

BS 10 table E

API 598




Testing Pressure


Applicable Temp. °C

Applicable Medium




DN50 ~ DN1000



-45~ 150

Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids,

Alkalis, etc.

Material List:

Part Name



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Q:how to check valve clearances?
Adam S, you're both right and wrong as far as needing to adjust valves. I changed 2 shims in 100,000 miles on my Kawasaki KZ1000, but my 1300 Kaw touring bike with nearly identical valve train needs checking and adjuuting every 6,000 miles or so. Go figure. Kneedragger, since your bike requires manual adjustment, you're valve train is either going to have a rockerarm type system with threaded screws and locknuts (easy) or use shims of various thicknesses to adjust the clearance (harder). Some have the shim on top of the 'bucket that covers the valve spring. With these, you will need a small, rather inexpensive tool specifically made for your model engine to compress the spring, allowing you to remove the shim. Other engines have the shim under the bucket, requiring you to remove the camshaft to change the shim. No special tools needed here, but reinstalling the camshafts correctly is absolutely vital. While this proceduere sounds rather intimidating, just remember that checking is all that may be necessary and no adjustments will need to be made. To check clearances, the idea is to turn the camshaft to that the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve and then measure the clearance with a feeler gauge and see how that compares to the recommended clearances. On shim type, clearances nearly always tighten and if the clearance is too little, you will need to install a thinner shim. I write down the clearance for each valve each time I check the clearances. If one valve tightens up faster than the others, this will give you a heads up to a possible future problem. Or, you may find they are ok this time but at the next check, you find some that need adjustment and will decide to take it to the shop that time. After a few checks and recording the clearances, you'll get a pretty good feel for how often you need to check them again. If you decide to do it yourself, by all means, get a shop manual.
Q:What is Mitral Valve Relapse?
Q:My shower handle(diverter) seems to be stripped. How shall I remove all the shower valves?
those 2 tabs are element of the cartridge. a clean cartridge comes with a disposable piece that fits in with those tabs and a sq. on the tip so which you would be able to turn and circulate it with a crescent wrench, which in turn loosens so it particularly is pulled out. possibly you ought to apply a robust needle nostril pliers to get it to tutor in case you probably did not desire to purchase the hot cylinder first. I believe utilising the plumbers grease once you're putting in the hot one.
Q:how to intall a new shut off valve?
if you have copper pipes i assume you need pipe cutters or a hacksaw a pair of channel locks and a crescent wrench some pipe dope for threads of compression fittings.
Q:Is valve oil and rotary oil the same?
Yes and no. Most pro repair shops use a heavier oil on the bearings and your valve oil on the inside of the valve. Confused? On both ends of the valve are the real friction points, the bearings. One can be seen under the valve cap. Take the cap off and push the valve, the little post you see moving in the middle is the bearing. The other one is on the underside. It comes out of the valve body and has the string post screwed on it. The only point to oil the bottom bearing is that little crack you see where it comes out of the valve body. You put a drop of sewing machine oil on those 2 bearing spots, 3 in 1 oil also works. Then pull a valve slide and put a few drops of valve oil down into the valve. That is how it is done. BTW, there is no difference between valve oil and rotor oil most of the time.
Q:Will Valve finally count to 3?
Unfortunately Gabe was never very good at math hence no Ep.3 or any other game to bear the number 3 ex. L4D, Team Fortress and Portal stop at 2 as well. On a serious note though, I am completely fine with Valve taking their time if the end result will be a quality game. Would you rather Valve rush development for Ep3 and have a mediocre game like so many other developers/publisher do? A delayed game is eventually good, a bad game is bad forever (well with exception for Duke Nukem forever but then again not all 15 years went into developing the end result) . If Valve needs to take it time to get the story right then so be it, we don't want another ME3 mess. Alex H. Where did you get your source from? Valve has not even muttered a single word of making a third L4D game let alone announce one.
Q:spit valve on clarinets?
Nope, no such luck!
Q:how dose the presta valve work?
Q:an people with bicuspid aortic valve live long?
The mitral valve between the left atrium and left ventricle only has two cusps and it works fine. Since the valve going into the left ventricle has two valves, it stands to reason that a similar valve going out of the left ventricle would function similarly if it was the same size and shape. The number of cusps is not entirely related to how well the valve functions. In your case, the opening of the aortic valve is slightly smaller than normal, but clearly capable of passing an adequate amount of blood. The stenosis alone may be the only problem caused by the valve. The stenosis you have likely creates some back pressure when the left ventricle contracts. The heart compensates partly for the back pressure but this prolonged compensation wears on the heart valve a little more than normal. So, you end up with a heart that more or less functions normally but the back pressure and compensation cause the heart valve to wear out faster than normal. Its a gradual effect. The type of damage done from this circumstance is not something that changes rapidly. Evaluating the condition every three years is still probably a very cautious approach and its not certain that the stenosis will ever become a significant problem even if you live well beyond 70 years.
Q:Engine rebuilding. About the valve shims.?
You can check the clearance with a feeler gauge of the correct thickness.If the gap is too big it will tick,idle will be rough,and throttle response will suffer.

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